Static timing question

[jakl]

Hi folks, finally going to install correct distributor in my '70 US 280sl.  Read all post, have correct tools.  One nagging question - Haynes says to set to static timing spec before removal.  My static timing is 10 BTC.  At 10 BTC distributor mark not aligned - cam lobes not in V-shape. This does not seem correct.  If I follow this method do I align distributor mark on rim and reinstall?
    Posts suggest rotate to TDC - marks align - removed old dist. and install new dist.  Would appreciate speedy response.  I would like car back together before New Year's day.
Thanks,
jakl  

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, jakl,
I would say set crank on TDC and #1 cams at 'V'.
Install distributor with rotor alligned to mark on distributor rim.
Should be able to start engine. Can fine tune to spec with strobe.
Hope this helps.
Happy New Year
naj


65 230SL
68 280SL

[TheEngineer]

The camshaft has a small groove which should line up with another mark when the crankshaft is at TDC. It is described in Haynes. I had to install an offset key. The distributor should then be rotated until the points just begin to open. Use a light or a ohm meter. Make sure the rotor points to the mark on the rim as NAJ says. When I installed a new distributor, I had to rotate the drive dog 180°. Also verify that the distributor is phased correctly, i.e. when the points open, that the rotor is under the contacts in the cap. A description can be found on the website for Crane ignition. Note that, as the advance changes, so does the phasing.

[jakl]

Well, I followed your suggestions.  Car won't start.  I've retraced my steps - I can't figure out what's wrong.  I'm tempted to reinstall old distributor.  
    Should I be doing something different because it's a transistorized ignition?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
-jakl

[glennard]

quote:Originally posted by jakl

Well, I followed your suggestions.  Car won't start.  I've retraced my steps - I can't figure out what's wrong.  I'm tempted to reinstall old distributor.  
    Should I be doing something different because it's a transistorized ignition?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
-jakl

Hi, Dist. on some MBs of the 60s and 70s have off-set drive teeth on bottom that should go in only one way- as the 'engineer' said.  I'm at 617 947 6399.

[TheEngineer]

Jakl: Let's go back a little: What is the number on your distributor?
What is the S/N on your vehicle? You said:"I got the correct distributor". Where did it come from ? Tell me the P/nos of the points, the rotor, the condenser (if it has one) and the cap. Do you have the correct coil? Run a test for me: Take the hi voltage wire that comes out from the coil and fasten it, using a clothes pin, in such a way that the metal end is ¼ inch away from the block (or valve cover). Manually open the points. Use a non conductive spatula. Do you get a powerful spark? Is the point gap set to specs? The distributor is always suspect if you did not personally remove it from a car just like yours (with the same engine)Don't trust salesmen!

[glennard]

Helps to have a distributor lobe for each cylinder.  Once bought a used 4 cyl. 190 with a 6 lobe distributor and a 4 wire distributor cap.  Fired good on No. 1 !!!!  Junk yard sold him a 'MB distributor' just as he asked.  Valves, crank, pistons, cams, distributor, wires, plugs, injection pump, controls, etc., etc., etc., all in harmony.   It is a wonderful thing!  Purrurfict!

[jakl]

Hi everyone, I've gathered the info requested.
Attempting to install distributor #231 185 010 JFU 6(purchased from Gernold/SL-Tech)
Components purchased from SL Classics.
Cap  1 235 522 194
points  1 237 013 112
condenser  1 237 330 318
rotor 1 234 332 215

Coil purchased last year from Miller's NC (Can't see number but is silver with yellow and red label. Writing is in German and says transistorized.

Car is '70 US 280 SL.  113044-12-017793  (Transistorized ignition)
Engine not original.  Car came with rebuilt engine 130 983-12-011624
Please note head says 280 SE
Old distributor that came with engine 0 231 116 048

Car ran fine before I fiddled with it.  I'm considering reinstalling old distributor and set up as before.

Also ran test mentioned - center coil wire held 1/4 inch from block, ignition turned on - opened and closed points manually - NO SPARK.

Last night set to TDC - cam lobes in "V" 10 and 2.  
Both distributor housings are very different.  Set at TDC old dist. rotor and groove on rim at about 11 o'clock (when viewed from side of car).  New dist. rotor and groove on rim at 7 o'clock.

Okay friends, what am I doing wrong?  I patiently await your responses.
Cheers,
jakl

[Naj ✝︎]

Well, the first thing is to sort out the spark!!
If everything was working ok before you removed the old distributor, the fault could only be with the new distributor. The connection at the low voltage wire post could be grounded or the moving part of the points somehow grounds out?
Have you got power at the smaller wire on the distributor with ignition 'on' ?
Once thats sorted, your HT lead to the #1 plug should be above the rotor arm - (now 7 o'clock as you say). The rest follow in firing order in CW direction.
Now it should start .

'048' is certainly the wrong distributor(vac advance while it should be vac retard). Was the vac line connected when it was running?

Hope this helps.

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[jakl]

Hi Naj, I agree, must check spark problem first.  How do I diagnose? Where do I hook volt meter?
Also, new condenser doesn't look the same as the one I removed from the '010'.  Green wire has single connector that goes to transistorized box under battery.  The one that came with '010' had two leads on each end.

By the way, the '048' DID have vacuum connected.  I don't know what modifications, if any, were made before car came into my possession, but other than fast idle it ran fine.
Cheers,
jakl

[Naj ✝︎]

Disconnect the small wire at the distributor and it should be live with the ign. on.
Could be around 10-12 volts.
naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[jakl]

Naj, I'll check tonight.  From memory the only small wire at distributor is the green condenser wire which goes to transistorized box under battery.  Am I missing something?
-jakl

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, jakl,
Now we need somebody with transistorised ignition experience to dive in here and help out.
I'm not very fimiliar with them and all the emissions paraphenalia on the late cars  :oops:
Sorry  :|
naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

p.s: I still think we're on the right track  

[ja17]

Hello Jakl,
Naj is on the right track. On your transistorized car, remove the distributor cap and the green wire can be "un-clipped" without
 removing the points. Now check the green wire end for voltage. Make sure to turn the ignition on for the voltage check.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[jakl]

Hi Joe, Naj, et. al.,  good news - spark problem solved. I now have 10-12 volts on green wire at distributor.  I was lazy and used the existing green wire already connected under battery.  I remember reading in old post it's a wire within a wire (coaxial).  I initially made up connection as if one wire and was shorting spark.
    Now, here is the next obstacle.  In looking down into distributor shaft it's not keyed correctly with bottom of '010' distributor I'm installing.  I remember a thread that said something about turning it with a large screwdriver in 40 degree increments until correct.  Question:  Do I turn clockwise or counter-clockwise?  Once I get past that I'm ready to install and it should start.
     This has been haunting me for a week - I'm close to victory.  Couldn't have done it without everyone's help - thanks.
I await your reply...
Cheers,
jakl

[jakl]

SUCCESS!!! Car started and is purring.  I found the old thread from Joe and turned the cog clockwise.  Dist. dropped in perfectly.  At operating temperature I used timing light to setup.  Strange thing, Haynes says 8 ATC at idle.  Runs better at 8 BTC.  
Bear in mind this is at idle - I'll check it at 3000 rpms tomorrow and test drive.
Once again, thanks so much for all your help. I truly couldn't have done it without you folks giving your time and expertise.
Until my next mishap...
Cheers,
jakl