right rear bumper to body

[TheEngineer]

I am getting my car repaired. Got a new right rear bumper and the Metal Man repaired the area where the bumper bracket attaches to the car. My bumpers have "horns" that attach with two screws to the bumper. The horns have a rubber insert that should be vertical. On a new bumper the mounting face of the spring steel bracket is parallel with the after surface of the horn. On an undamaged car the area where the spring steel bracket attaches is vertical. It is like that on my left rear bumper and the horn is vertical. On the right side the bumper was pushed in and up. The mounting surface is tilted up six degrees. It was much more and the metal man screwed a puller into the nut-plates and pulled out as much as he could. I made tapered shims so that the horn is vertical. There appears to be no access to the back of the nut-plates. The floor of the trunk is above and the floor on which the tank is mounted is below. It makes a strong box and the sheet metal is doubled there. I would like to see the mounting surface vertical. Any suggestions? 

[doitwright]

I assume the "horn" you refer to is AKA the over rider?

I just checked on my car which does not have the bumper installed (yet) and I see that the bracket retaining nut is in an "enclosed part of the rear panel. It would seem likely that to complete the repair you mention that the sheet metal on the fuel tank side may need to be opened up to gain access and allow you to pound out any uneven metal on the outside from behind. You would then of course need to weld up the opening created from behind.

I think you want it to look like this:

[TheEngineer]

Yes Frank, this is exactly what we are looking at. Except my car is an operating vehicle, not a sandblasted shell like in your picture where cutting and welding can be done easier. My car has no rust at all and therefore it is not justified to strip it down. The damage happened when I loaned out my Prius and the driver neglected to put it in 'park'. When the Prius started-up by itself, the driver was no longer in the car and the Prius smashed into my Mercedes. But thank you for the picture!

[doitwright]

Perhaps a long bolt with the same threads would allow you to manipulate the alignment of the nut by carefully using leverage on the bolt and bending/pulling back to the desired position.

[TheEngineer]

yes, I am going to try something like this. I have to be careful not to do more damage. Thank you for your insight and sharing your thoughts. The car has been painted now and I can take it home except that my 86 Toyota truck is in my garage. I have a coolant leak. It appears to be on the inside of the timing chain cover where the waterpump is. The aluminum has cracked and allows coolant to leak into the sump. Chocolate milkshake. Fairly big job. Not happy.

[doitwright]

Can you post a photo? I can ask Mike who did my body and paint work.

[Delvis]

This is what it looks like behind the outer sheet metal. The meat of the bumper mounting area are in the cross brace. Not sure how easy it will be to bend/adjust/true up with just long bolt. Hope you can have the Prius driver. I think you mentioned it was a family member help you.

[doitwright]

Are you familiar with this system?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkWm78ClA_M

[Jonny B]

This was very cool. I had never seen anything like this before. I was amazed at how easy it was to remove the pulling pins after the first dent pull.

One of the comments was the guy was an artist. I would agree with that assessment.

[114015]

Absolutely great work !
Vera impressive indeed!


Achim

[Delvis]

Very cool. Never seen before. Thx for sharing

[Shvegel]

I used to pull on cars in a past life.  I would make a 1/2” thick plate that bolts to both holes on that side the weld an arm sticking up so you can pull on it about 12”’above the bolts.  You will need it back on the frame rack to do the pull.