I took some pics but I wish I took more. I will try to dig them up.
I was concentrating on the job itself
I was very nervous attempting it.
Since this was the first time I have done anything like this I had to create my own technique on the fly.
My dash bows were completely stripped of the first layer of veneer and coated with what looked like a spar varnish. I assume this was the PO's attempt to fix already deteriorating wood and sand through over 25 years ago. I don't think that it is necessary to strip the first layer buy rather make sure that everything is smoothed out of any dents or defects so it won't show through the veneer.
Here are the steps I took.
- Laid out dash bows on veneer keeping in mine the grain patterns. You want try to make the patterns match on both bows
- Traced OVER SIZED out line of the bow and cut out. I used about a 3" over sized outline. For some reason it came in handy
- Roughed up existing bow finish
- Do one dash bow at a time for the following steps
- Applied High Heat good quality contact cement to both bow and veneer. Wait per contact cement instructions
- Applied the veneer to top of bow. I did not role any curves or edges at this time. I only wanted the veneer to adhere to the top. Made sure the veneer is evenly placed on bow so no air pockets appear. Take special care to the top of the outside curves as not to "bridge" the raised profile. You want the veneer to follow all of the top contours.
- Then trimmed down as much as I could MAKING sure that I left enough to wrap the edges
- The back side of the dash bows are easily trimmed so I did that first using a very sharp carpenters knife. Change blades often.
CRITICAL PART
I found that to not have the veneer crack or at least greatly minimize it I used a wet finger and applied water to about an inch at time of the area being worked on(the bend). I then rolled over the veneer about 1/8" - 1/4" at a time (just enough that it does not crack) making the contact cement stick. Immediately trim what you just did. Roll, stick, trim, roll, stick, trim. Repeat. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! The smaller movements you make will have better result.
Trimming as you go is CRITICAL as it relieves the stress on the veneer. If you do not do it you surely will have cracks.
I tried using a steamer to soften the veneer but that didn't work. Applying a little bit of water in the work area worked best for me.
I think I was about 99% crack free and was even able to use 1000 grit sand paper and fix any that appeared. I was extremely impressed how they came out. If I knew I could have done it 20 years ago I would have
- I then wrapped both bows tight with blue painters tape and left over night just to make sure everything stuck. I'm not sure if necessary, but it was insurance for me.
- Finish with stain of choice
- Apply 7+ coats Minwax spar urethane satin
From what I have read our options are:
1. DIY for ~$50 (veneer, stain, urethane, contact cement)
2. Buy aftermarket for $600
3. Professionally refinished for $1200
