Author Topic: 1966 230SL Engine Removal (Read 7320 times)

Harry · « **on:** August 01, 2018, 12:17:05 »

I am going to pull the engine out of this car for various reasons and I have a question for the forum. The car is an automatic and there really is no reason on my part to also remove the transmission, i.e. I have no plans or need to do anything with the transmission. Normally, I would reach through the access plate on the bottom of the bell housing to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate, slide the torque converter towards the transmission, unbolt the bell housing from the engine then pull the engine forward and away from the transmission. (I would of course have to support the transmission in the front since it would otherwise be unsupported.)
Is this the proper method for the 230SL? Are there some other things that I need to be watchful for?
Thanks very much,
Harry Bailey

ja17 · « **Reply #1 on:** August 01, 2018, 14:41:49 »

Sounds like you have the right steps. Just make sure your torque converter is all the way back and engaged with the front transmission pump during installation.

Harry · « **Reply #2 on:** August 01, 2018, 16:57:21 »

How is the engagement with the front transmission pump assured? (Is there a good schematic somewhere?)

Thanks again,
Harry

Harry · « **Reply #3 on:** August 01, 2018, 16:59:01 »

(BTW Joe - I sent you a PM when you get the time.)

Harry · « **Reply #4 on:** August 09, 2018, 22:49:49 »

I have a question on timing for my 1966 230SL. I am pulling the head on this car to do a rebuild. To do this, I have removed/disconnected most of the various connections to the engine - intake manifold, exhaust manifold, radiator, etc. While the car is down, I plan to also refurnish the engine compartment, and I think perhaps it was you who suggested in a related post that I should consider pulling the engine. I agree and I have a question on timing for my 1966 230SL. I am pulling the head on this car to do a rebuild. To do this, I have removed/disconnected most of the various connections to the engine - intake manifold, exhaust manifold, radiator, etc. While the car is down, I plan to also refurnish the engine compartment, and it was
suggested in a related post that I should consider pulling the engine. I agree and I plan to proceed with doing that.
So while all this is underway, I will also replace the timing chain, check the cylinders, etc. I'd like to remove the Fuel Injection Pump to be able to clean and paint the block. So the question is how difficult is it on reassembly to get everything (cam, distributor, crank and IP) back in time? I can set the engine on TDC, align the cam with the alignment marks and be certain the distributor is pointing at the number 1 position. Is that the procedure then to adjust the timing to 20 deg ATDC and install the IP? Can the alignment marks on the IP be easily set on the bench or do I need to be sure to have the engine at 20 deg ATDC before I remove it (then leave it that way)?
I hope this makes sense,plan to proceed with doing that.
So while all this is underway, I will also replace the timing chain, check the cylinders, etc. I'd like to remove the Fuel Injection Pump to be able to clean and paint the block. So the question is how difficult is it on reassembly to get everything (cam, distributor, crank and IP) back in time? I can set the engine on TDC, align the cam with the alignment marks and be certain the distributor is pointing at the number 1 position. Is that the procedure then to adjust the timing to 20 deg ATDC and install the IP? Can the alignment marks on the IP be easily set on the bench or do I need to be sure to have the engine at 20 deg ATDC before I remove it (then leave it that way)?
I hope this makes sense,
Harry

Benz Dr. · « **Reply #5 on:** August 10, 2018, 04:32:06 »

Before you do anything you better make sure you have a head gasket for your engine.

MikeSimon · « **Reply #6 on:** August 10, 2018, 12:02:14 »

Quote from: Benz Dr. on August 10, 2018, 04:32:06

Before you do anything you better make sure you have a head gasket for your engine.

Excellent advice! I was very lucky. After trying quite a few established sources it seems I got one of the last gasket sets around. This was for the later M130 motor. Don't know if the M127 II faces the same supply issues.

Chris_ATL · « **Reply #7 on:** August 10, 2018, 12:38:20 »

For anyone interested, Autohaus AZ ( i buy a lot of parts for my modern cars there) still has some head gasket kits in stock

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1300103321

mrfatboy · « **Reply #8 on:** August 10, 2018, 12:47:16 »

That's the earlier version. The OP has been looking for the later version which is out-of stock.

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1300100480

Pelican says they have them. I would call and double check though.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1300103521.htm?pn=130-010-35-21-M30&catalog_description=Head%20Gasket%20Set%20&SVSVSI=5721

MikeSimon · « **Reply #9 on:** August 10, 2018, 15:21:36 »

Pelican does not have them. I ordered two just yesterday and after first confirming the order, they called and cancelled it because they have no stock.

Harry · « **Reply #10 on:** August 11, 2018, 12:56:40 »

First of all, I apologize for my scrambled post. I have no idea how that happened. The head gasket issue is concerning. My local MB dealer said they could get one but they could no longer get the kit (with the other gaskets). I think I’ll get that ordered first thing next week.
How about my timing questions?

Thanks,
Harry

Tyler S · « **Reply #11 on:** August 11, 2018, 20:14:24 »

Harry, set the engine to TDC #1 (rotor on distributer pointed to #1 post) before you get started with disassembly. Dont worry about the injection pump timing as of now, you will use the IP timing procedure when you are reassembling and you have all of your new timing components in place. The IP is easily set before you reinstall it.

Minerva · « **Reply #12 on:** August 11, 2018, 21:30:31 »

Checked with mercedes last week and head gasket not available. This was in Ireland so may be different with you.
Keith

Benz Dr. · « **Reply #13 on:** August 12, 2018, 04:03:57 »

My supplier says they can get them. I don't know how many are available or for how long.

MikeSimon · « **Reply #14 on:** August 12, 2018, 17:07:01 »

Which one? The M127II gasket for the 230SL or the later M130 gasket for the 280?

Benz Dr. · « **Reply #15 on:** August 12, 2018, 19:43:57 »

I asked about a late 280SL head gasket and was told they could get them. Since I'd see it before you would, I'd be the one on the hook if it wasn't the right one. I could send it back of course but would probably put it into stock.

MikeSimon · « **Reply #16 on:** August 12, 2018, 21:56:08 »

Here is my experience with Pelican Parts:

I ordered the gasket that they had listed on their site 130 016 5020 (actually the number that has been superseded, but would work) I ordered two.
They confirmed the order and send me a tracking number for the shipment.
Then I get a call from a lady telling me they have only one in stock. They would change the order to one and credit me for the other.
Two hours later, I have an e-mail telling me the whole order is cancelled.
Subsequently, I get a notice from my credit card company that the whole amount of the order was credited to my account.

So, don't believe anything they say until you have it in hand.

Coming back to my question. The OP here in this thread needs a gasket for 230SL. Which is the gasket for the M127II. This was supposed to be NLA also. It is totally different to the one for the 280SL, which comes in two versions, one for early, one for later motors.

Shvegel · « **Reply #17 on:** August 13, 2018, 01:04:44 »

Like many web based retailers Pelican sells and other wholesalers do at least part of their fulfillment. Usually a company called World Pac is somehow involved. I am assuming the supplier showed one and it turned out they didn't have it.

Harry · « **Reply #18 on:** September 12, 2018, 16:56:47 »

I just replied in another post that I just ordered and now have two complete head gasket kits for my 1966 230SL. I got them from the local Mercedes Benz dealer.

On pulling this engine, I am ready to do that but was just curious. Where are the attach points for the chain from the engine hoist? Normally I would use a couple of head bolts and that's probably what I would do here. Any different advice? Also, the manuals say to unbolt the head in the reverse order they were torqued. When attaching the hoist, I wouldn't intuitively do that. I would just find two bolts that are the right locations, loosen them and use them for the hoist (being very careful not to damage the sealing surface on the top of the head). Thoughts?

Thanks very much

ja17 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 13, 2018, 06:30:11 »

Head bolt locations are fine for removing the engine. If your using a removal chain or cable with bolt plates, you may want to remove the head bolt washers so you grab a few more threads for a safe lift. Don't worry about proper sequential bolkt removal when removing just a couple of head bolts.

Harry · « **Reply #20 on:** September 13, 2018, 15:28:59 »

Thanks Joe!

Harry · « **Reply #21 on:** September 13, 2018, 15:33:52 »

Joe,

What is your advice on the FIP while I have engine out? The car was running fine, and has (shows) about 100K miles. Based on the service records, I'm inclined to think this is probably the actual mileage. Should I leave it alone or replace some parts while I have such good access, ex. WRD, cold start, etc?

Harry

Tyler S · « **Reply #22 on:** September 13, 2018, 19:08:41 »

If it was running fine, leave the IP alone. You may inadvertently create a problem and think somthing else may be wrong with the motor work done. Those items are easily worked on when the engine is installed/is running.

Harry · « **Reply #23 on:** September 14, 2018, 17:23:46 »

Thanks very much.

ja17 · « **Reply #24 on:** September 15, 2018, 15:03:43 »

Definitely change the oil in the IP while it is out of the car.

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Author Topic: 1966 230SL Engine Removal (Read 7320 times)

Chris_ATL