Author Topic: Idle Air Screw  (Read 3036 times)

AB

  • Full Member
  • Junior Level
  • *
  • USA, GA, Atlanta
  • Posts: 10
Idle Air Screw
« on: September 26, 2018, 17:34:11 »
My Idle Air Screw has no effect.  Air still passes when closed all the way down with spring.  Could it have been damaged by being screwed to far into the body of the valve if so is there a fix?
1970 280SL, Anthracite Grey Metallic, Light Grey Metallic Top
Shed fined not run in ten years.  Acquired in Oct 2015

Benz Dr.

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7220
  • Benz Dr.
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2018, 18:04:20 »
Not that likely and more likely a vacuum leak or stuck warm up regulator. I would also check to see if your throttle valve is closed fully. Any one of these things, or a combination, would give you no response when turning in your idle air screw.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

AB

  • Full Member
  • Junior Level
  • *
  • USA, GA, Atlanta
  • Posts: 10
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2018, 03:43:53 »
Thanks very much for the reply.
I checked both of those items and they seem ok.
 
I put my finger over the idle screw hose and restricted the air flow with my finger and was able to choke the engine that way, hence my suspicion of the screw valve itself.

Should the valve close to zero flow?
1970 280SL, Anthracite Grey Metallic, Light Grey Metallic Top
Shed fined not run in ten years.  Acquired in Oct 2015

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7414
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2018, 06:38:24 »
The air screw will not completely shut down the idle air. Make sure the engine linkages are correct. If the venturi is not set right, you may be drawing too much air into the intake.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

stickandrudderman

  • Vendor
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • United Kingdom, England, Richmond
  • Posts: 2926
    • http://www.colinferns.com
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2018, 10:28:36 »
This is where a smoke machine becomes very useful.
You need to track down the source of air that is allowing the engine to run at the elevated speed.
Could be:
Throttle butterfly maladjusted.
Inlet manifold gasket leak (or some other manifold leak)
Aux air slide stuck open or pipe work compromised.
Brake servo hose split (or indeed servo itself failed)
Also check for incorrect ignition timing.

mrfatboy

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Rancho Santa Fe
  • Posts: 1339
    • Mrfatboy
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2018, 14:01:05 »
Did I hear someone say "smoke machine"? 😜


https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=27775.0
1969 280sl (Aug 1968 build)
Signal Red
4 Speed

AB

  • Full Member
  • Junior Level
  • *
  • USA, GA, Atlanta
  • Posts: 10
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2018, 19:05:23 »
Thanks much, 

I think I have a brake booster problem as the engine speeds up when the brake is pushed.
Again thanks for the list to pursue.  I will chase down the brake booster issue first as it seems the most likely.

I occasionally vape.  Is that enough smoke? ;)
1970 280SL, Anthracite Grey Metallic, Light Grey Metallic Top
Shed fined not run in ten years.  Acquired in Oct 2015

Pawel66

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Poland, Mazowieckie, Konstancin-Jeziorna
  • Posts: 5495
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2018, 20:14:51 »
The revs will increase slightly for a moment when you press the brake - it is normal. Just a bit and for a moment. If it is a constant increase of revs - that is another story.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Mike K

  • Inactive
  • Silver
  • ****
  • South Africa, Gauteng, Johannesburg
  • Posts: 351
    • Mike Kirkinis
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2018, 06:11:57 »
To elaborate on Pawel's comment, press and hold the brake pedal, don't pump it.
You should see a slight rise and fall of maybe 50 rpm or less, which is normal as the chamber equalizes.
If the rpm rise does not return to normal after a few seconds, then there is a problem.

It could be the O ring seal between the brake booster and the brake cylinder, or could be that the booster itself is faulty.

Best,
Mike
Feb. 1971 Mercedes 280SL Auto  LHD (Last of W113 Series)
Aug. 1989 Mercedes R107 300SL RHD (Last of R107 Series)
http://michali.zenfolio.com
http://www.lebombo-safaris.com

Tyler S

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Encinitas
  • Posts: 1613
Re: Idle Air Screw
« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2018, 13:42:39 »
Adjusting The idle air screw should only be adjusted/ will only have a noticable effect if the engine is completely warmed up. If backing it out causes the engine to race more than 100 rpm, the injection is rich. If it stumbles, its lean. The engine should not rise or fall ~ 100 rpm.
1968 (67) 250sl. 4 speed manual. DB180 Silver
1955 220 Cabriolet A. White Grey
2019 E450 Wagon. Majestic Blue
1936 Ford PU Flathead V8. Creme on tan interior.
1989 Volkswagen T3 Westfailia Campmobile. Dove Grey (blue)