Author Topic: Dutch 230 SL Pagode 1965 restoration project (Read 89357 times)

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #50 on:** December 17, 2018, 15:45:37 »

Quote from: Jonny B on December 17, 2018, 02:14:42

Most impressive. Are they all the same pieces, or have you had to do any replacements yet?

The bearings inside didn't have to be renewed, they were greased well.
All the rubber parts are new.
The wheel bearing will be renewed, and also the disc brakes.
The brake callipers will be overhauled with new parts.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #51 on:** December 21, 2018, 20:06:10 »

The rear axle is completely disassembled.
Fortunately all bearings, bushings and crown and pinion wheel are in a good shape.
In the meanwhile some nice new parts for the front suspension have been delivered.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #52 on:** December 27, 2018, 19:05:57 »

Today I picked up the Pagode at the blaster.
It looks like a completely other car in the zinc epoxy color!

J. Huber · « **Reply #53 on:** December 29, 2018, 00:54:27 »

Is it just me -- or does this guy work really fast! Really impressive thread. Way to go EV. Keep it up.

James

PS my 63 was originally delivered to Holland and spent most of its childhood there. Best guess it came to America in about 1976... Still retained its European trim, so maybe surreptitiously?

mrfatboy · « **Reply #54 on:** December 29, 2018, 03:28:09 »

Not just you. I thought same thing 😁 He is a man with a plan👍

Pawel66 · « **Reply #55 on:** December 29, 2018, 10:35:01 »

Do I see a wiper motor there being blasted and primed together with the body???

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #56 on:** December 29, 2018, 15:18:11 »

It's protected by paper.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #57 on:** December 29, 2018, 15:21:34 »

Nice to see all the original spot weldings, now the bottom is blasted.
Fortunately no nasty surprises, just some little holes to repair.

Pawel66 · « **Reply #58 on:** December 29, 2018, 15:26:09 »

Quote from: EeVeeWee on December 29, 2018, 15:18:11

It's protected by paper.

Any reason for leaving it there? Just curious.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #59 on:** December 29, 2018, 15:30:30 »

There was no reason to remove the wiper system.

Pawel66 · « **Reply #60 on:** December 29, 2018, 16:10:45 »

I see, thank you.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #61 on:** December 31, 2018, 15:39:38 »

At the and of this year I still repaired some small holes in the bottom.
The next step will be replacing a part of the floor.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #62 on:** December 31, 2018, 19:14:03 »

The new part of the floor is already welded in place.

114015 · « **Reply #63 on:** January 02, 2019, 00:31:10 »

Looking great, Eric !

Keep on with the good work !

Good luck & Happy New Year,

Achim

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #64 on:** January 02, 2019, 08:02:47 »

Thank you and the same!

johnk · « **Reply #65 on:** January 03, 2019, 03:43:35 »

Did you find much rust behind the spot where you made the rear patch? I had a similar looking surface rust spot but once I poked through it I found significant rust through on the internal verticle wall of the rocker panel where it joins up with the frame section that extends from the rocker panel up and over the rear axle.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #66 on:** January 03, 2019, 08:59:23 »

I don't completely understand which spot you mean, but after the blasting during my rust hunting I didn't find nasty surprises anymore.
Only the rear panels at both sides have some rust spots and also a bad repair.
The rear of the car also has a rusty spot and bad repair presumably after a small accident.
So I still have some welding to do.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #67 on:** January 03, 2019, 22:13:52 »

I renewed a piece of the rear fender.

114015 · « **Reply #68 on:** January 04, 2019, 01:24:26 »

Quote

I don't completely understand which spot you mean, but after the blasting during my rust hunting I didn't find nasty surprises anymore.

Nope, Eric,
That's unfortunately not completely true.

As you know our cars are unibody-constructed cars (or integral-body cars) and as such a lot of hollow beams like rockers. cross-members, etc. do provide the structural rigidity to the whole body structure.

When or if you sandblast the whole car - as you (and I in my case) did - then you only remove the rust visible from outside.

However - as you also know - unibody structures do rust from inside - out

and that means that at least some of our hollow structures of the body do need special attention.

I do not want to terrify you now- but you do also understand that if you now looked into your hollow rail member structures with a special camera (good body shops do have that) - I am confident you would find rust !

That's not the end of the world, your car is still okay than (and your overall car body does look good from the pictures - it does!)

but nevertheless - prepare yourself to find some rust.

Especially prone for rust is the cavity behind the rear valance (that's where you just work on), the front cross member below the front grille section
and mostly the area where the rear ends of the both main outer rails meet the rear longitudinal hollow members that go over the rear axle and this is also the area where the main crossmember behind the seats meets the rails.

That is the section indicated by your picture "project970.jpg",
the one where you put only a little patch on - this is the area John K is referring to.

Even though the whole region is really looking good on your car,
there _is_ some rust inside for sure and that's where you put the little patch on.
Well, you don't need to make a big construction site out of this now,
but be aware there _is_ quite some rust behind - at least on the inner surfaces.
That means that you need to apply lots of cavity wax into these boxed areas afterwards - very, very, very important!

Don't worry & keep on the good work !

Best,
Achim
(rust-dust inhaler)

114015 · « **Reply #69 on:** January 04, 2019, 01:36:24 »

Dear Eric !

Quote

There was no reason to remove the wiper system.

No, I also do not agree here.

While I do understand that disassembly takes its time and that might have run short before you brought your car away for sandblasting...,

I highly recommend to remove the wiper linkage mechanism now
and clean it thoroughly! You will find remants of sand from "blasting" and that should be immediately removed.

Furthermore, even though my wiper mechanism worked fine I found some rust on the right hand side wiper shaft after disassembly of that 50 year old device.

Thorough cleaning, rust-removal and new zink plating helped the parts a lot and also I had enough time to apply lots of grease to the shafts

.... you should do the same with yours.

Wiper linkages are extremely expensive nowadays, and it is well worth to spend some maintenance on them now!
Now, where you have easy access to it - you will never get better access to your wiper assembly than now - with the empty dash!

Same holds true - by the way - for the wiper motor.

Get it out and maintained - removal of residual sand (yes, there will be some - trust me!) and re-grease and electrical etc, if necessary.

Do it - it's really good advice - and will help your car!

IMHO...,

Best,
Achim

dirkbalter · « **Reply #70 on:** January 04, 2019, 02:37:44 »

Eric
In addition to Achims comments, don't forget to check the support struts in the front wheel wells, these usually rust from the inside out as well. I didn't recognize how bad mine were until I poked at them with a screw driver.
Dirk

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #71 on:** January 04, 2019, 08:41:53 »

Thank you for the extra information, I appreciate it.
I'm familiar with rust inside because I also restored a VW T1 bus.
Also there was rust inside in some of the beams.
I did a lot of searching how to solve this problem.
The best way is to open all the hollow structures, but that is not very practical when you want to remain the structure of the car.

The second best is to use bath with special liquids to clean the rusty areas and protect agains rust.
I didn't find a company who can do this.
The next best step is drill holes to reach all the hidden areas and spray with special cavitation wax.
This is what I did with my bus and still will do with the pagode.
After spraying the inside of my bus, I checked some areas with an endoscope and I saw it crept into all the crevices.
On a hot day there still is dripping some wax from the drain holes.
That is very important, to keep the drain holes open, so that water (condense) can go out and the area keeps ventilated.

By the way, I made holes in both hollow members, just before the rear wheels and behind the front wheel.
So I could inspected the inside (see picture).
The conclusion was that it was not very rusty, less than I expected.

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #72 on:** January 04, 2019, 08:44:17 »

About the wiper motor, I will remove it and inspect the parts of the wiper system.

Pawel66 · « **Reply #73 on:** January 04, 2019, 16:23:41 »

I think it is a good idea. Rare occasion to have it on the fork in front of you...

EeVeeWee · « **Reply #74 on:** January 04, 2019, 19:06:17 »

Quote from: 114015 on January 04, 2019, 01:24:26

However - as you also know - unibody structures do rust from inside - out
and that means that at least some of our hollow structures of the body do need special attention.

I do not want to terrify you now- but you do also understand that if you now looked into your hollow rail member structures with a special camera (good body shops do have that) - I am confident you would find rust !

Best,
Achim
(rust-dust inhaler)

Here you can see a picture from the inside:

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Author Topic: Dutch 230 SL Pagode 1965 restoration project (Read 89357 times)