After working for about a month to make the Cold Start System work as it was intended to, I decided to do as my mother would have said to do and that is give it a "lick and a promise", then quit working on it. That is a lick now (Missouri slang for attempt) and a promise to do better later.
I disconnected all the cold start devices except the WRD (it's not electric anyway), and added a push-on/release-off button beside the driver's left knee for the Cold Start Solenoid.
Mine works fine by opening the CSV simultaneously with the commencement of starter operation and release it a couple of seconds after it starts firing. That's usually about five seconds in the summertime after an overnight ambient temperature "soak". That's a term used by the U.S. auto industry, meaning an untouched temperature cool-down and stabilization period.
So far, mine has worked fine with that technique. When I experimented with pre-crank CSV, starts got worse. If I shut it off before it fires, then it doesn't fire at all. I'll stay with the technique that simulates the original automatic system with a guess for injection duration.
Eventually, I'll probably create a Cold Start System Overlay Electrical Harness to patch in to the original. If it works, then I'll go back to the original automatic cold start system. All the devices seem to diagnose correctly except they don't work when they are connected into the original harness. I think there's a short somewhere that blows #6 fuse at start of crank. That's really why I bypassed and disconnected all the fuse #6 components, removed the fuse and wired the bypass switch outside the fuse system with heavy duty switch and wires. The CSV only used 3.1 or 3.2 amps anyway.
Good Luck
Tom Kizer
