230SL Power Steering Pulley Removal

[ctaylor738]

Working on a neglected 230SL that really need a shaft seal on the power steering pump.  The pulley doesn't have a groove for a puller, see picture.  I really would like to replace the seal leaving the pump in place.  Can anyone suggest a way to get the pulley off without damaging it?  I have tried tapping and prying and PB Blaster w/o success.

Thanks,

CT

[ja17]

Hi Chuck,

These early "straight shaft" PS pump pulleys are always more difficult to deal with than the later "tapered shaft" version. You can use a bearing puller that uses the flat plate clamped behind the pulley. Otherwise use some heat around the center hub of the pulley, screw the nut on flush with the threaded end to protect the threads whey you tap, carefully pry from two sides, and tap with a mallet while prying after heating. You'll need an extra set of hands.

[mbzse]

.../...Can anyone suggest a way to get the pulley off without damaging it?.../...

Hi Chuck,
Perhaps you could form grooves each side of the pulley center, with an angle grinder or similar? Emulate the later pulley design. This in order to enable the attachment of puller arms at these points.
I certainly haven't done this myself, just an idea.

[ctaylor738]

Well, it's off thanks to set of three pullers that I found on Amazon.  They are made in China by "Mofeez."  They are a good deal.  Reasonably sturdy, and the the jaws are interchangeable so they are very adaptable.  I used the 4” jaws on the 3” puller to fit between the pump and the frame. $24 well-spent.

I heated the pulley center for about a minute with a propane torch, then went 2-3 turns on the puller.  Repeated three times.  I watched it carefully and there was no sign of stress where the puller jaws were attached (on the back of the pulley).

Cheers,

CT

[Benz Dr.]

I think that early pulley is cast iron, which can break if too much force is applied, while I believe the later one is pressed steel. The later one will bend and deform past a certain point which really isn't using a lot of force with a puller behind the pulley. Knowing this, it's best to use  the grooved puller if at all possible. This all becomes a bit of a quandary when removal of the pulley is essential before removing the pump from its bracket. 

[Sead]

I think that early pulley is cast iron, which can break if too much force is applied, while I believe the later one is pressed steel.

so true..

[ctaylor738]

Well, with the old-style pulley without a groove for the puller, you don't have a choice, the only option is a puller that grabs from behind.  I looked in vain for a four-jaw puller that was small enough.  I also squirted PB Blaster into the little slot where the Woodruff key goes.

[stickandrudderman]

If you have the equipment you can just weld on a couple of lugs for the puller jaws to anchor on to then grind them off when you have removed the pulley.
The heat from the welding process will likely loosen the grip too.

[FresnoBob]

Does anyone know if a 1966 230 SL has a straight or cone shaped shaft?  My pump squeals and squeeks and i want to replace it, but don't want to remove the pulley (however difficult that may be) until I have the new pump available. 

[Tyler S]

Bob, The easiest way to tell is to look at the snout of the pulley. Compare to the pics above. The straight shaft will have no grooves. The Tapered shaft will have a groove around the circumference of the snout.