Author Topic: Detailing the 280SL Engine  (Read 7996 times)

Pawel66

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #25 on: September 07, 2019, 15:13:40 »
I have these two stickers.

I know the tune-in one (white) is not correct - wrong engine and it looks different a bit from the one on your picture.

And the yellow one - I have no idea if it was used on W113 and if so, where was it placed. I asked this question before, but we did not know...

The system cannot recognize PN 1065840740 nor 1085840740 nor 1305840740 from your picture.

What we are lloking for is similar to the one on the other picture (this particular one is for W115, 116 and 123).
« Last Edit: September 07, 2019, 17:13:10 by Pawel66 »
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

450sl

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #26 on: September 07, 2019, 19:29:04 »
My 280sl 1970 sticker

MikeSimon

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #27 on: September 07, 2019, 19:29:16 »
I think the original sticker I have is very similar to the one you have for the 127/129 engine. It just does not refer to the engine but the car. And some details you cannot read anymore may well be different.
1970/71 280SL Automatic
Sandy Beige
Parchment Leather
Power Steering
Automatic
Hardtop
Heated Tinted Rear Window
German specs
3rd owner

Pawel66

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #28 on: September 07, 2019, 21:32:26 »
Mike, your original sticker had this big image of crankshaft and piston - it is the other graphic series vs. my for 129 or yours for M130. I would be digging for that as well as I know what i am looking for. Maybe I will stick the sticker from your other picture, just for now.

Is the CO value for idle correct on this sticker?

Do you recall the yellowish sticker anywhere in your car?

450sl - thank you, I think it is the emission sticker. From what i know these were not applied for Europe.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

MikeSimon

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #29 on: September 08, 2019, 14:54:56 »
Pawel, not really sure what you're saying as far as similarities between the stickers. No, the CO value is not correct. My original sticker has 2.0-3.5% and I have not seen this on any other new sticker available.
1970/71 280SL Automatic
Sandy Beige
Parchment Leather
Power Steering
Automatic
Hardtop
Heated Tinted Rear Window
German specs
3rd owner

Pawel66

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #30 on: September 08, 2019, 15:40:37 »
Sorry for not being clear. I meant the way of showing engine drawing on the sticker for the diesel engine and your original sticker - looks like a new graphic used in stickers of a subsequent issue across the engine types. That is what I think it may be - of course just my supposition.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Shvegel

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #31 on: September 09, 2019, 07:09:42 »
NYC-MB280SL,
Here is a brochure photo for your car or one close to it.  I looked it over and it is accurate and a good guide. 

alpina

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #32 on: September 09, 2019, 18:10:18 »

Pawel66

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #33 on: September 09, 2019, 18:13:42 »
Well, it is different than the old one shown on the picture by Mike...
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Shvegel

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #34 on: September 09, 2019, 18:42:59 »
Alpinaltd,
The one you reproduced is a US market Decal.  Lower CO and different timing specifications.

Shvegel

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #35 on: September 09, 2019, 19:32:07 »
OK,  Getting back to the OP's question about restoration tips.  Here are a few more assuming that you are going for accuracy according to Mercedes Benz Club of America (MBCA) guidelines.  The guidelines are original parts or whatever Mercedes Benz is currently supplying.  Hoses for example must carry Mercedes Benz stampings to be considered "Correct"  The battery since the original tar topped Varta is no longer available must be a genuine Mercedes replacement which is currently a white case.  Almost all the plated parts under the hood are Yellow Cadmium plating but since Cadmium is fairly poisonous Yellow Zinc is an acceptable substitute.  The exceptions are the straps that hold the coolant expansion tank with the radiator cap on it, The strap that holds the power steering reservoir to the bracket, the wing nut and washer on the power steering reservoir and the battery hold down bolts and nuts. This is not a complete list but will get you most of the way there.  The original radiator cap will have a "100" on it and should be retained.

As far as I know there are only 3 Black Oxide finished parts,  The bolt that holds the alternator adjusting bracket to the engine, The eccentric bolt at the very back of the power brake booster and the big bolt at the front of the crankshaft that you will most likely leave alone unless you are replacing the front seal.

Hose clamps have been covered here extensively.  Basically, they all need to be of the same type except the clamps on the power steering return hose which are special clamps.  Authentic Classics (Staten Island?) sells complete sets of Norma clamps as the original Gemi clamps are not in production.

A couple things are pretty much unplatable unless you have specific tools or knowledge.  The big solenoid right on top of the intake manifold (CSS or Constant speed solenoid), the big solenoids on the back of the injection pump, the small solenoid on the far right on the engine(cold start injector) all don't like being immersed in plating chemicals and are all expensive to replace. 

If you car is an automatic you will most likely have a switch on the side of the throttle body that has a brown bakelite cover.  Use care removing the wires since it is easy to crack the cover and it's price comes with 3 zeros.

The pipes that run from the injection pump to the injectors must be plugged before plating as the plating chemicals will cause the pipes to rust internally and can actually clog to the point of stopping the fuel entirely.

Pretty much the high points for now.


NYC-MB280SL

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #36 on: September 10, 2019, 18:50:53 »
Thanks for sending the photo.

Do you have any idea how to go about plating the gas lines? Do I need to send it out or can I do it my garage?

Thanks,

Peter

Shvegel

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Re: Detailing the 280SL Engine
« Reply #37 on: September 10, 2019, 21:09:45 »
You can do the plating in your garage but honestly it is cheaper and easier to send it out.  Usually two or three hundred to do it all.   That being said I have a plating line in my garage.  I like being able to pull stuff off, restore it and put it back together.  It also allows me to plate the "unplatables" things like solenoids and switches that might get destroyed without proper care.  The down side is plating stuff is a caustic mess and pretty much everything in a 3 foot radius will rust.  I have pretty much lost half my 17 foot long workbench to it.   

If you still want to plate your own stuff I can talk you through it.  Eastwood makes some pretty good kits and I have figured out a few tricks on my own.