Frigiking Airconditioning

[EeVeeWee]

I have bought a Frigiking airconditioning set, but wonder if it's complete.
Of course I will find out during installation, but that will be much later.
I found this useful information at this site:
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Cooling/Aircon

But does someone know if there is an overview of all the parts of the Frigiking airconditioning to collect missing parts?

[Shvegel]

I would post pictures of what you have. There are enough people here who are familiar with the system that can help you out.  I just installed one with an upgraded condensor and compressor so it’s pretty fresh for me.

[Shvegel]

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/uploads/Cooling/Air%20Conditioning%20Installation%20Instructions%20for%20Mercedes%20Benz%20280SL.pdf

[teahead]

I would post pictures of what you have. There are enough people here who are familiar with the system that can help you out.  I just installed one with an upgraded condensor and compressor so it’s pretty fresh for me.

Where'd you get the condensor?  Any mods needed to fit it?

Ditto compressor.  Sanden? 

[Peter]

Hi Eric,

I suggest the same, you could post picture.
Mine is partly mounted, I'm at the end of a complete restauration, and I also have a good Idea what is needed.

By the way, you could also visit me in Helmond to check what is needed.
You are most welcome.

Kind regards, Peter
 

[EeVeeWee]

Hi Eric,

I suggest the same, you could post picture.
Mine is partly mounted, I'm at the end of a complete restauration, and I also have a good Idea what is needed.

By the way, you could also visit me in Helmond to check what is needed.
You are most welcome.

Kind regards, Peter

OK great, thank you!

[EeVeeWee]

Here are some pics I got:

[teahead]

Definitely buy a new expansion valve.

Get the evaporator tested for leaks.

Maybe take the hoses to an AC shop and have new ones made.  Perhaps w/the new style schrader valves for easier install of the R12/R134a.

Definitely get a new drier.

[EeVeeWee]

And some more.

[EeVeeWee]

Definitely buy a new expansion valve.

Get the evaporator tested for leaks.

Maybe take the hoses to an AC shop and have new ones made.  Perhaps w/the new style schrader valves for easier install of the R12/R134a.

Definitely get a new drier.

A new expansion valve and drier, I'm not sure if I can find them new but I'll try.

[teahead]

https://www.budsbenz.com/catalog/230-250-280-sl/z-air-conditioning


I would also (my plans when I redo my AC) take off the front part and put some kind of blocking plate for the far-right vent.

90% of the air flow goes through that far right vent, thus barely anything coming out of the center/left vents.  That's due to the blower going straight to that far right vent.


Looks like you have an R12 Sanden compressor.  I probably would just get a new R134a Sanden.  Not that expensive.

[Peter]

Hi Eric,

I miss:
• metal tube form pre-cool condenser to upperpart motor compartment
• bottom cover plate pre-cool condenser
• difficult to see if the condenser in the “airco-metalbox” is there.
• some specific brackets: “airco-metalbox”, hose water-cooling, dryer
• I don’t miss other big parts

I suggest:
• to restore/to check the 3 condensers.
• change all rubber tubes
• let the Sanden compressor be restored/change for new
• new dryer

Good address for this with experience:
Car Cool Systems
Branchweg 2, 5705 DR Helmond      
phone: 0492 526 664

Success

[EeVeeWee]

Everyone thanks for the tips, I have something to do the coming time. 

[teahead]

I would look into a new, modern parallel flow condensor and not use that bumper one.

Just gotta figure the right size and bracketry.

[Shvegel]

Besides what has already been mentioned I don’t see the compressor mounting bracket, the idler wheel, tensioner or the 3 sheave pully for the water pump.  All these are not easy to find.

[Shvegel]

Teahead,
My replacement was a generic 14” x 23”  like this one. I made 4 brackets and TIG welded them to my radiator’s steel sides. You don’t want to go any taller than 14” or you may have hood interference issues.  Be sure to keep the condenser as low as the original.  I also custom bent a 90 degree fitting for the lower hose so I didn’t have to cut the body shell at all.
The compressor is a Sanden with #8 and #10 o-ring fittings in the up direction rather than at the back.   I ended up buying a crimping tool for the ac lines.

I will post a couple pictures when I get home in October.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Universal-Condenser-14-X-23-Parallel-High-Flow-Includes-Mounting-Brackets/173983157711?hash=item2882344dcf:g:v7cAAOSwtV1dQmAt

[EeVeeWee]

Good explanation, I'm very curious for your pics! 

[waltklatt]

Also missing the bracket to hang the blower motor in the rear to the underside of the firewall.  Pretty big piece there.
And the long screws to affix to the underside or the dash fascia along with the plastic cover plates. These long screws have very big wide washers to reduce the warpage of the plastic decor panel in front.
Walter

[doitwright]

The only component I see of value in the photo you displayed is the air plenum with the vents that mounts under the dash. If the evaporator core is solid you can still use that. The compressor is R-12 and the condensors are the old serpentine type. Don't bother reusing those. You should also replace the blower, hoses get replaced with barrier type for R-134, New Sanden Compressor and of course the parallel flow condenser. Also replace the dryer at the firewall. Once the dryer is exposed to the air for extended period of time, its internals no longer do their job. You will also need the appropriate compressor mounting bracket and pully's. Joe Alexander reviewed on this forum an improved setup using 280SE A/C components. You would be looking for the compressor mounting bracket (photo attached), engine pully and the top of the thermostat housing (Which has a taller neck). Another issue to consider and prepare for is the added stress stress to the engine resulting in increased operating temperatures. 280SL's can be particularly vulnerable. Others have added electric fans at the radiator, heater core bypass lines, and even electric water pumps and radiators with better heat dissipation efficiency.

You can also find the Fridgeking installation manual on ebay by searching "Mercedes 230SL AIR CONDITIONING INSTALL - SPARE PARTS - SERVICE MANUAL". The listing shows several photos of the manual and will give you a good idea of what is involved.

[EeVeeWee]

OK thank you for the bad news. 

[teahead]

Just curious (sorry to hi-jack) if anyone here has converted from flare to o-ring by just changing the expansion valve, drier, and hose fittings???

[Shvegel]

Mine are flare at the evaporator at the supply and return including expansion valve and O-ring everywhere else. If they make an O-ring expansion valve you could adapt it to the flare evaporator with a flare to O-ring adaptor.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/factory-air-o-ring-to-flare-aluminum-a-c-fitting-adapter-16748/20890217-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=20890217-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=online&store_code=&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoKzsBRC5ARIsAITcwXHYSIt1UCduA9yyEn5gtrT6pmX-BqR5PdGyY1E-f8_pCDkLqnyQ4T4aAj7WEALw_wcB

[teahead]

Is there a wiring diagram for the whole AC system?

I would think the blower motor would run to some accessory circuit, but what about the compressor wire?

Shouldn't there be some binary or trinary switch installed somewhere?  Usually it's attached to the drier fittings.

[doitwright]

Checkout VintageAir.com Much to learn there and they have the parts.

[Shvegel]

In the factory setup there is no binary or trinary switch.  The original York compressors would survive on low refrigreant flow but I doubt the Sandens will.