Author Topic: Floor boards  (Read 4253 times)

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Floor boards
« on: May 06, 2003, 14:52:26 »
Anyone have any idea how many man hours is reasonable for a bodyshop to replace the floor boards in a 280 SL?

AT

ja17

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Re: Floor boards
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2003, 18:10:48 »
It is almost imposible to guess without a thorough inspection. Some businesses are set-up with equipment and experience to do this type of work. Most places use replacement panels manufactured by K & K in Michigan. These panels are very nicely reproduced with zinc plated metal, (more corrosion proof than original)and are less expensive than originals. A few shops specialize in this type of work. A lot of shops can patch up things. Do your research. Take some pictures of the problems. Usually the floor pans are just the tip of the iceberg. See if the jack supports still support the weight of the car. If not you may have more serious problems. I used to do frame and pan restorations on these so don't hesitate to ask questions.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

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Re: Floor boards
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2003, 20:53:51 »
Joe, Thank you very much, I have the panels from K&K; do you know how many man hours I should be prepared to pay a body shop for doing this job? (is this hard or is it just unscrewing a bunch of bolts?

what type of equiptment should the bodyshop have for this work... (you mentioned in your write-up)...

Tks again.

AT

ja17

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Re: Floor boards
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2003, 20:45:52 »
Hello AT,
Save yourself some money by preping the car if you can. Any assemblies or panels must be removed if in the way. Remove  interior trim, carpet seats if possible. The floor pans are welded in place at the factory. The factory floor coverings, sound deadening material, must be removed and the rusty metal must be cut out mechanically or torched or removed with a plasma cutter depending on the available equipment. The surrounding metal must be cleaned of undercoat,rust and paint so the new metal  parts can be welded in place again. Afterwards, the welds must be ground, cleaned, primed painted, undercoated etc. If the person doing the work is unfamiliar with the process or the type of car the work will take longer. If this person is working under a jacked up car with welding and cutting sparks falling all over their body, the work will also take longer. Many modern restoration shops have rotating fixtures, so that the car can be positioned to aid in the restorer's speed and quality. The degree of quality specified will make a major difference in price. As original or an undetectable repair will be expensive. Acceptable to industry standards will be less expensive. Avoid a cheap patch for sale. It is the least expensive, but will hurt the value of the car. Many buyers will be on the alert for this kind of work.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback