Brake Bleeding procedure - correct order?

[Andres G]

I have just installed my rebuilt brake booster and brand new ATE replacement master brake cylinder.

I am now taking on the brake bleeding procedure and wonder which is the correct order (which caliper to do first) for a LHD 250SL?  Anyone know?

[bogeyman]

You start from the furthest, therefore the sequence would be:
RR
LR
RF
LF

[cfm65@me.com]

Yep, Andreas,
You do the one furtherest from the master, first. In other words, the right rear slave cylinder, then left rear, right front, left front, the booster, master on a LHD car. Same principle on a RHD. Start with the furtherest away from the Master.
Then do it again, rr, lr, rf, lf, booster then master.

[Andres G]

Thanks folks.  I was beginning to worry about the time it took to bleed the RR, and I’m still getting air...

Going to switch to the LR and see what happens.  I’m using a power bleeder so not too bad a job.

I’ll circle back when I am done.

[Jordan]

Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it?  If you didn't I don't think you will ever get rid of the air.

[Andres G]

Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it?  If you didn't I don't think you will ever get rid of the air.

Jordan, can you tell me how to bench bleed the master?

I think the end result I got was excellent.  Full braking power and straight and true behavior. However it is always worthwhile knowing that I did the full procedure right. 

Thanks,
Andres

[Benz Dr.]

It helps to bleed the master first but I rarely ever do and it still works. Sometimes I've found that I had to bleed the front ones first before I could get the back ones to bleed correctly. Given that we have two separate systems that aren't connected to each other except at the master cylinder storage tank, I don't think it matters as much as one would think.

[Mike K]

Andres, here's a link with a pic of my set up to bench bleed the master cylinder.
I recommend doing it, it's very straightforward.

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=22964.msg164235#msg164235

best,
Mike

[thelews]

Sometimes, what looks like air in the lines, is air being sucked in past the open bleeder screw.  It looks like you never get the air out.  You can sort of test it by opening the bleeder further or closing it somewhat while bleeding.  If the character of the bubbles changes that is likely the issue.  You then use your judgment to determine if the line is free of air, close it up, and eventually test the pedal and brakes to verify.

I don't bleed the master in the normal course of bleeding, seems to me that is accomplished through the process of bleeding the lines.  I use a power bleeder, pressure provided at the fluid reservoir.

[Andres G]

Been driving it around lately and found no issues at all.  I am in love with my new brakes... Thanks for the input guys.