Author Topic: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions  (Read 3624 times)

IanC

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1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« on: January 13, 2020, 18:14:39 »
I am restoring my 1967 5 speed 250SL and Heritage in Palm Springs is doing the interior work. Tony recommends finishing the crank handles in matching leather. They do appear a little odd in burgundy (my leather is red). He also gave the option of leather on the ash tray cover and center piece for the steering wheel. I want to keep the car as original as possible and protect its value. My existing black vinyl? is in good shape for both of these items. Any comments on this would be appreciated.

My wood is generally in good shape but needs re-staining. Any recommendations for this would be appreciated. I am in Vancouver Canada.

As well, my car only has the lap seat belts and no head rests. I am considering adding shoulder harnesses and head rests and wonder if anyone has had experience with this and also any comments on affecting value as not original.

Thanks, IanC

John Betsch - "SADIE"

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2020, 19:46:12 »
A little caution on refinishing.  Many years ago I thought- how hard can it be and started sanding- mistake.  Remember when you refinish, the veneer is very, very thin and easy to sand through it.
jb
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Pawel66

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2020, 20:57:14 »
Here you can find a handful of info on the steering wheel: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Interior/SteeringWheel

Please note the colours and material of the pad. I am not sure if it always matched upholstery... Sounds like black vinyl may be ok, I would have thought.

Sometimes it is a question of preference: originality or how you like it (unless you like originality).

As for seat belts - there are numerous posts on this topic and various types of seat belts installed by Members. Try search function, type in "seat belts" or check it out here: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Interior/Seatbelts

Anchoring points should be there in the chassis.
You can install non-retractable, original 2 or 3-point seat belts for MB cars of the era and if you are more after comfort and safety - modern or period specific retractable ones (hope still available somewhere). The visible trace that will stay in case you would choose to remove the 3-point ones will be a hole in the B-pillar upholstery (but not immediately seen).

On wood perhaps a specialist would judge the condition and say if some refreshment is possible without removing it from your car. If you decide to remove it, some refreshment can be done on DIY basis if you are somewhat skilled. I think wood was not necessarily finished with gloss varnish, rather satin, but I may not be accurate. Polishing wood - as per SADIE's comment, you may want to start with, say, medium grade polishing paste and see what you are getting? You can go down or up with grading of the paste or paper.

As for the window cranks inserts - are you sure "burgundy" is not worn red? Have you tried to clean them?

As for value preservation - I do not know, you have very qualified Members here to comment.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2020, 21:18:58 by Pawel66 »
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Bonnyboy

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2020, 22:23:03 »
If your ashtray cover is in good condition I would leave it as is as they can come out looking goofy if not done properly.  The horn pad is an easy thing to swap out to original if you get another pad to cover and keep the original as is.  I redid mine in leather and really like it - I have had comments on it once I did in in leather but never when it was vinyl.

Who are you gong to use to install the interior? 

Ian in North Van
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wjsvb ✝︎

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2020, 04:23:43 »
As for the headrests, a set of used ones could be sourced from a 108, 109, 114 or 115: remove the seat back cover and the entire mechanism should unscrew from the seat inner structure.  It can then be reinstalled on your seat in the same manner.  Covers to match your interior should be available from your interior restorer.  Later models (116, 123) may also have mechanisms which can be used, but they may be tack welded in and have to be done differently.  Bear in mind that this is primarily an appearance modification: it won't have the holding power in a crash that your new Hyundai has...
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stickandrudderman

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2020, 10:15:44 »
Quote
Anchoring points should be there in the chassis.

Not always, I've had to install them in many cars.

GM

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2020, 16:48:51 »
Recommend you check with Scoot, who has a nice collection of original window crank inserts for sale
Gary
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lowpad

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2020, 02:01:20 »
I added 3-point belts to my '66 230SL, following the instructions laid out here: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Interior/Seatbelts. I don't think including up-to-date safety items -- within reason -- is ever a tradeoff with originality.  The three-point belts work like modern belts and are comfortable, but don't look out of place in the 113's exquisite interior. 
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scoot

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2020, 01:52:17 »
Window Crank Inserts - early style.  Not perfect but pretty nice.
Scott Allen
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mbzse

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2020, 08:26:30 »
Quote from: IanC
.../... finishing the crank handles.../...the ash tray cover and center piece for the steering wheel..../... I want to keep the car as original as possible and protect its value. My existing black vinyl is in good shape for both of these items. Any comments on this would be appreciated.../...
One cannot expect an upholsterer/vendor to know what was original, so treat their recommendation accordingly....!
On the 250 SL from factory, the crank handle inserts and steering wheel pad were all black vinyl/MB Tex (even on leather equipped cars). The ash tray cover and center tray insert were black for many interior variants. Rubber floor mats and door sills were grey. For some variants however they were colour coded, as were the rubber mats in front and the ribbed rubber top of the door sills

On the 280SL, the crank inserts were colour matched to the interior, yes, but still vinyl/MB Tex.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2020, 10:38:03 by mbzse »
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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2020, 08:36:23 »
Regarding three point seat belt installation, some info here:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=23486.msg180575#msg180575
/Hans S

mrfatboy

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2020, 11:16:11 »
On the 250 SL from factory, the crank handle inserts and steering wheel pad were all black MB Tex (even on leather equipped cars).

Is this true for ALL 250sl's?  My friend has a Aug 67 (later) 250sl 334G light blue. Blue interior. The horn pad is blue also.  It's the original horns pad.
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Aaron h

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #12 on: January 29, 2020, 21:43:36 »
A little note on wood.  As someone previously mentioned the actual veneer is very thin.....something like 1/32".  Sanding is usually futile.  To add to the problem, Pagodas used straight grained European walnut.  Walnut itself, whether it's straight grained or burled, is the WORST wood to use for outside or in a car because it fades extremely fast.  I've never understood why walnut was used on so many cars of this era.  Regardless, the point here is to say that even if the wood survives a light sanding the sun fade will have gone through the whole thickness of the veneer.  To get an idea of what color the wood originally was look at the areas that tuck under the "A" pillar linings.  Often times these areas will not be sun faded, and are a good reference to what the color should look like. 

Color.......Mercedes never ever stained the wood.  The color was applied simultaneously with the top coat.  Essentially, the finish was tinted dark walnut.  If you'll look in the Pkw-Ausstattungen book (Passenger car interior appointments book) you'll notice a foot note at the bottom that says "Alle Holzteile in Nußbaum dunkelbraun gebeizt".  (All wood work finished in dark walnut brown).  This applies to all Pagodas.  Bear in mind that there are urban legends, or rumors, that darker colored interiors had lighter wood, and light colored interiors had darker wood.  That's not true in any sense.  Otherwise Mercedes would have noted something like that.  So, never stain the wood.  It will never look like it's supposed to. 

Finish...From production start to production end Mercedes used a tinted nitrocellulose lacquer.  The finish was never a high gloss.  Always a semi gloss/matte finish.  If the wood looks like a piece of glass, then it was refinished incorrectly.  Granted, there are people that prefer a high gloss, and that's fine.  I'm merely stating what the cars originally came with.  Some of the grain should show through.....it shouldn't be completely smooth.

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #13 on: January 29, 2020, 22:13:14 »
Quote from: mrfatboy
Is this true for ALL 250sl's?  My friend has a Aug 67 (later) 250sl 334G light blue. Blue interior. The horn pad is blue also.  It's the original horns pad
To the best of my knowledge.
Attached a blue interior with black horn pad (Factory photo)
/Hans S

Garry

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #14 on: January 30, 2020, 00:14:08 »
I think the exception was when you optioned the off white steering wheel then it came with the light off white pad and gear knob. Or at least that was my understanding.
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mrfatboy

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Re: 1967 250 SL interior restoration questions
« Reply #15 on: January 31, 2020, 00:18:14 »
To the best of my knowledge.
Attached a blue interior with black horn pad (Factory photo)

Your knowledge is better than my memory 🤣 I just saw my friend's 250 and it is black but faded. There is sun damage.  Sorry for the confusion.
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