Restoration of window winding mechanism

[FGN59]

I am in the process of restoring the winding of both windows on a 1969 280SL (US specs).

Both window tops ‘lean out’ from the frame (so to speak, as there is no actual frame, just rubber from the hard top in this season) when I close the doors, and ‘pop’ out when driving at speed. A lot on the driver’s side, a bit less on the passenger’s. Fun, up to a point...

Having removed the door upholstery and protective plastic sheet, I found out one door (the driver’s) was missing both sliding ‘jaws’ while the other still had the front on. I was able to recover one of the jaws that had fallen to the bottom inside the door frame, ordered the two missing ones, as well as a kit to refurbish all sliding parts, took out both mechanisms, cleaned, glued (the jaws), and generally put back in shape every possible part using all the tips garnered from the Technical Manual and relevant posts (many thanks to all contributors).

While at it, I also took out and cleaned the door closing mechanisms (not the locks).

I am now ready to reinstall.

Question: what kind of lubricant should one use on

- the door closing mechanism (I was thinking of using some teflon spray as it won’t collect dust?)
- the sliding jaws (same)
- the winding gear and hinges (regular grease, maybe lithium)

[wayne R]

Yes ---FGN59---- will be ok to use, Lithium is a lube used for when metal is in
contact with plastic, like with sliding guides, and nylon wheels in metal guides.
Teflon ok for all metal to metal, also    WD-40 now makes a very good high performance
silicon lubricant black and yellow can.    regards.

[dpreston Virginia]

Just finished the window project myself.
Don’t forget to put the cloth between the window and jaws when you epoxy the jaws to the window. Most any thin cloth will work.
You’ll be so happy when you see the difference in the window play.

[FGN59]

Thanks for the advice on lubricants.

I did put thin cloth between the jaws and glass as recommended in the forum. I’m waiting for some more small parts to put the windows back in, meanwhile replaced the rubber gaskets around the doors, put the locks back on, and I now get a nice tiny rebound and a sort of ‘chonk’ sound when I close the doors instead of ‘clang’ as before. Sounds and feels much better, almost like a luxury car! 😊

François (aka FGN59)

[Sead]

Just finished the window project myself.
Don’t forget to put the cloth between the window and jaws when you epoxy the jaws to the window. Most any thin cloth will work.
You’ll be so happy when you see the difference in the window play.

Do you have a pic of what you are reffering to?

thx
Sread

[FGN59]

Here are pictures:

- of the jaw/felt/glass assembly back in use on the window (the door trim hasn't been put back in yet)
- of the jaw/felt before gluing to the window glass

The felt prevents direct contact between the metal jaw and the window glass. I glued the felt to the glass first, and immediately thereafter the jaw to the felt without waiting for the first layer of glue to harden, as I was afraid the thickness of the glass/glue/felt might prevent the glass/felt from being fitted all the way into the jaw.

[FGN59]

I should add that I used rather relatively large pieces of felt (as you can see) to increase the glue-to-glass surface, as the glue apparently tends to 'unglue' itself over time, and it is a somewhat painful process to disassemble the door altogether to get to it and put it back together. Maybe this will last another 50 years  , by which time there is a good chance I won't be around to fix it again (or unable to fix it if by chance I’m still around  )

[TJMart]

I used JB Weld a two part epoxy glue with the felt to attach my guides to the glass. They will not come off in my lifetime.

[FGN59]

So did I. Belt and suspenders