W113 Electronic Ignition Bundle from SL Shop

[Heftos]

Hi all, and thanks for membership to the group. So I have a question which I was hoping someone in here has experience with, I initially asked in a FB-group, but was referred here. I've tried searing the forum for answers and similar discussions, but with no luck. Please excuse me if I am asking a question which is already answered, or if I'm posting in the wrong location.
 
My 1970 280 SL is not running, and I have located to problem to be in the old distributor (I am getting a spark from the HT cable running from the coil, but no spark at any of the spark plugs). Not sure if it is distributor cap, rotor, condensator or points. And after reading up on the issue, I concluded that converting to an electric distributor would fix the issue and maybe even improve performance.

I just recently ordered a replacement distributor (https://www.theslshop.com/parts-shop/mercedes-benz-w113-sl-pagoda-parts/engine/ignition/mercedes-benz-w113-electronic-ignition-bundle.html) and was wondering if any of you have any experience with installing it? Is it a DIY job? I have some mechanical experience.

All comments are appreciated?

[Paul & Dolly]

Hi Heftos

Welcome

There is lots of mostly excellent experience here with 123 Distributers,
 You can fit it yourself, but it is not always so good a chioce,  when you already have a problem, maybe.

They are Dutch ,check the website  https://123ignition.com/?s=W113+mercedes

They are knowledgeable about our cars

Keep well

Paul

[stickandrudderman]

Anything the SLShop sells you can find cheaper elsewhere.
There is plenty of information here on 123 ignition systems and I highly recommend them.

[Heftos]

Hi and thanks for your replies! I understand now that I should have considered 123, however I have already ordered from the SL Shop. It is my understanding that despite maybe being a bit expensive, they still deliver high quality parts and also know the W113 series quite well?

[JamesL]

Hi. Saw your FB post this morning and Garry’s reply.

SL shop do though perhaps are better known for supporting R107s than 113s. In the UK, Roger Edwards was regarded as a bit of a guru. The shop that still bears his name know our cars well.

But 123.nl also know our cars and as Paul says above, are usually (COVID aside) happy to help out with their units

Several people on here have done the install themselves and posted the process, tricks, tips and problems encountered. Stickandrudderman installed mine (and others) so knows the process (and our cars) very well
 A very quick search (top right of the page) dug this up https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9984.msg65875#msg65875 which shows how long “we” have been at this
Or -
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=29156.msg210810#msg210810
There’s little that someone on here won’t have come across so please, just ask/use the search function.

[jeffc280sl]

you may have purchased a private label 123 ignition system.  i dont know of any other fully integrated ignition system for later model 280sl

[JamesL]

Jeff
The link above suggests a full 123 unit, red coil and some new vacuum pipes as a “bundle”
It’s all about the presentation

[Heftos]

Thank you for all comments and guidance, that’s very helpful!

[jeffc280sl]

hi james,

i remember that post.  lot of information there.

heftos,

you can do it yourself.  there's a lot of information on the earlier posts.  you can always ask more questions

[PeterW113]

Hi Heftos,

I don’t think you will need the ballast resistor with the electronic ignition.

I was surprised to see it in the kit.

Regards

Peter

[Heftos]

Hi Peter,

There is actually a note on the SL shop's webshop saying that the ballast resistor is required when fitting the distributor? I don't really know what it does, but i might try to see if the car runs the same with out!

Jeff,

Thanks for the confirmation! I'll give it a go

[WRe]

Hi,
the use of a ballast resistor depends on the ignition coil. If it has an internal resistor (>1 Ohm) you shouldn't use an extra resistor.
...WRe

[PeterW113]

Hi Heftos,

Wre makes a good point which I overlooked. It may have made more sense to provide the right coil to match the distributor and save the money. In terms of originality I like many kept the original ballast resistor in place, but discreetly bypassed it as it was redundant with the coil I used.

The main thing is, if the distributor you have is a 123 item, which it appears to be, you have bought a good product and it seems that all the items have been matched to follow the original installation approach.

Peter

[Pawel66]

Hi,
the use of a ballast resistor depends on the ignition coil. If it has an internal resistor (>1 Ohm) you shouldn't use an extra resistor.
...WRe

For 123 installation with their recommeded coil, which is aboce 0.9ohm, you do not need a resistor. If you were provided with 123 distributor+coil+resistor it may mean the coil is below this resistance, so they gave you the resistor.

To delete resistor, I think you would need to confirm it is 123 and check the coil resistance.

But I would probably install what I got in the set in your case...

[Heftos]

Hi, thanks for all your helpful answers and comments. As far as I can see, the coil is about 0.9 ohm, so I’ll install the resistor. I am still waiting for parts, but will be sure to update as soon as I have them installed. Looking very much forward to seeing if the update has any effect on performance 

[Pawel66]

I am sure this works out fine!

As I have this habit of carrying some essential spare parts in the trunk, I would like to encourage you to ask the seller for spare cap and rotor part numbers. When you receive them (if it is 123 these would be Bosch most likely) I would suggest to buy them (from any automotive internet store) and just have them at hand.

[WRe]

Hi,
some weeks ago I asked in Pagodentreff.de if there are any experiences with the recommendation of 123ignition to change rotor cap and finger each 30.000 km because mine runs already  35.000 km without any trouble.
Norbert told his story of ordering new cap and finger (because of this recommendation) from 123ignition because he was not sure about the Bosch spare part numbers and to be sure to get the "right" Bosch parts. He got not Bosch but Beru parts which costs him three times than elsewhere. He changed his "old" parts and used the new Beru parts. From this time his engine runs not very good, spark plug no.1 was always sooted. After a trouble analysis he changed everything back to his "old" parts and everything was fine again.
q.e.d.
...WRe

[Pawel66]

The 123 spare parts numbers are on their website and also you get it on the leaflet when you buy 123.

My conclusion from recent couple of years, based on struggle with W463 with M103: stay away from Beru. Used to be good brand, now it is junk. Buy Bosch. I had Beru spark plug connectors in my Pagoda. Every couple of months one went bad. They are all replaced with Bosch now.

Good that in internet stores you often have all OEM numbers for given part.

You called rotor a "finger"? It is funny - It is called a finger in Polish...

[Heftos]

So I got the parts today, can confirm that SL shop retails 123 distributors

[

[Pawel66]

Great! Then if you r coil is above 0.9ohm, they would tell you not to use resistor.

[WRe]

Hi,
which brand are rotor cap and finger/runner in your bundle?
...WRe

[Heftos]

The cap and rotor was is Beru. And I hit a problem, if any here can help it would be greatly appreciated.

I got to the point when I turned on the ignition and turned the distributor to watch for the timing light. No light. And I now only have 0.01 volt going into the coil. When removing the old distributor I removed the battery and disconnected the two cables running from the old 062 distributor to the connection point under the battery. Now I am wondering wether or not I got the wires mixed up connecting the point under the battery again. I am attaching a few pictures, any help would be awesome.

[PeterW113]

Hi Heftos,

Sorry but can’t comment on the wiring tonight but will give some thought tomorrow.

Two unrelated things to be aware of.

If you are using the original distributor clamp, you may need to turn it upside down to clear the 123 body. This is not an issue if you have too.

Also, apparently it’s easy to install 180 degrees out. It did not happen to me, but I have read some have made this mistake.

Re the wiring issue, the I instructions supplied should help. I managed to get my install right first time which  was a huge relief.

Good luck.

Peter

[Heftos]

Thank you PeterW113, it might be worth noting that I have also replaced to coil, and that it is currently grounded from (-). I've found others with similar problems, but no answer yet. The LED is not going on as I don't have any volts on the (+) of my new coil... 

[Pawel66]

All that needs to be done is to connect the red wire from 123 to "+" on coil, black wire to "-" on coil and blue to ground.

Even if you lost which wire is which, it is easy to check where you have power after ignition is on. Just use multimeter or bulb to check where you have 12V on the connector under the battery (I do not have this connector, so not sure how to tell you exactly which wire it is). Where the light is on after you turn the key - this is the coil "+" wire. On the wiring diagram (for 280SL) this wire that brings 12V after ignition to resistor is red/black.

In your case, if you use the resistor delivered in the set - they provided it probably because the coil has resistance less than 0.9ohm, you should have:
1. identified place where + is coming after you turn the key
2. a wire from there to resistor
3. a wire from resistor to coil + (may be marked as "15" on the coil)
4. red wire from 123 to the same place, + on coil
5. black wire from 123 to the other end of coil
6. blue wire to ground

Coil should not be connected to ground (I red what you wrote and thought you might have connected coil to ground). I am attaching the 123 manual, maybe you did not get it.

Turning 180 degree, etc., is another story, you need to get connections correct and have + on coil + after ignition.