Author Topic: Engine Detail (Read 5862 times)

Pengue · « **on:** October 14, 2020, 00:53:13 »

I'm thinking of having my engine pulled, engine compartment painted and the entire engine detailed (not rebuilt). Any experience or thoughts on this would be appreciated including expected cost.

Dan Pengue

Vander · « **Reply #1 on:** October 14, 2020, 01:04:51 »

$15k is my estimate. I'm sure some people would charge you more, and some will do it for less.

mrfatboy · « **Reply #2 on:** October 14, 2020, 01:28:02 »

It is tedious detail work. Prepare to write a big check to do it right or do it yourself. It took me several months. I did it since I was replacing the head gasket.

A lot of work but it feels good at the end 👍

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #3 on:** October 14, 2020, 07:05:24 »

It is indeed a lot of work; I add 50% to my engine build price if the customer wants it detailed.
you will also need to consider that taking an engine apart may well reveal issues that were not symptomatic but that should be addressed whilst it's apart so the bill might go up.

RobSirg · « **Reply #4 on:** October 14, 2020, 11:12:32 »

It's also worth noting that these engines have overtime found a happy medium and manage to run Ok even though some components are not quite right. As we pull things apart we tend to fix and improve 'some' along the way.(not to mention the things that are not working at all - blocked CSV jet for example). Or you might take the opportunity to go with electronic ignition?
Once the car is back to together it no longer has it's happy medium and runs poorly even though you improved some (not all) elements. It's anyone's guess how many hours of fettling are then needed.

Then there are the things that we should attend to whilst we have the opportunity. Eg:
- Change the Speedo and Tacho cable whilst you are at it
- Get the Brake booster re-conditioned to fix that vacuum leak
- Radiator tested, cleaned and possibly re-cored
- Change the seals in the Steering box to fix that seep
- Replace the Water pump, clutch fan.....
….and so it goes...…

...It's a slippery slide...but still worth it in the long run.

When I got my car back (the first time I had an engine bay detailed ) it ran really poorly. Then the Brake booster seized up (should have had it rebuilt whilst it was out) then the Speedo cable snapped....again, should have replaced it when accessible.

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #5 on:** October 14, 2020, 12:33:32 »

Summary thus far - leave well enough alone! You can probably accomplish a lot by spending a day with cleaner/degreaser and large and small brushes. Cost $5. Plus, after a few years it will start looking grungy again, if you drive the car, so in the long run such an investment may not be worth it.

mrfatboy · « **Reply #6 on:** October 14, 2020, 14:33:14 »

Post a picture of your engine bay and let’s see what you are dealing with.

When I did mine I just concentrated on a small section at a time. It just really depends if you like doing it yourself or not. I certainly would not pay somebody to do it. Too much chance of someone loosing a part or breaking something.

I put a tutorial in the tech manual on how to make the relays look new. You take the valve cover off and polish with Bar Keepers friend, etc. just take your time.

Harbor Freight has a cheap steam cleaner that lets you get in tight spots.

Jonny B · « **Reply #7 on:** October 14, 2020, 16:34:51 »

Nice battery there mrfatboy!

dpreston Virginia · « **Reply #8 on:** October 14, 2020, 17:25:07 »

10k -15k easy. Spent some time doing my 111 and I found a happy medium in spending time and not so much money on improving the engine bay.

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎ · « **Reply #9 on:** October 14, 2020, 18:34:27 »

First and formost; "If it aint broke leave it alone"

Second; "Are you realy prepared to spend $15 +++ K just to open the hood and show it to someone"

Third; "Your car loves to be driven and the engine compartment can be maintained by you and man it feels good"

Now if you dont like to drive your car and if you like to make it a show car and trailer queen, then go go have it detailed. However, be aware that your car will be very sad (as said she loves to be driven). and be prepaired to pay a bundle. I was qupted $16 US Plus in 2013, it will be more then that now.

Dieter

MikeSimon · « **Reply #10 on:** October 14, 2020, 19:16:52 »

Four things that can do a lot to the cosmetic appearance when you open the hood are:

Coolant tank
Radiator
Valve Cover
Intake Manifold

Runale · « **Reply #11 on:** October 14, 2020, 19:25:27 »

I would add the firewall padding...

My 250SL arrived a week ago from uk, its leaking transmission and engine oil. Would need a whole seal roundup so the engine is scheduled to be lifted anyways.

Alessandro

1967 250SL G050 G 040
1979 200D W123

Shvegel · « **Reply #12 on:** October 15, 2020, 02:00:03 »

Dan,
I
Just finished mine. If you want pictures as sort of a roadmap PM me with an email address or better yet a phone I can text to and I will send them on. My car is a late 1970 and therefore the same as your engine bay. I have had several people look it over so it is pretty accurate.

Runale · « **Reply #13 on:** October 15, 2020, 12:26:45 »

Hey thanks. you can send on whatsapp on 00356 79803580. I certainly need a good dose of advice.

Alessandro

franjo_66 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 15, 2020, 22:13:50 »

Hi Dan

I think there is some really good advice here on what you can accomplish without spending a large amount of your hard earned $.

I think I managed to get a pretty decent engine bay by doing the following:

1. Degrease the whole engine & surrounding areas including suspension/frame, transmission, peripherals etc - I used marine clean which is non-toxic and non-corrosive. Worked brilliantly.

2. Followed up with warm soapy water and various sponges, brushes and tooth brushes to clean every surface and item

3. I then attached a polishing pad to a cordless drill and buffed up all the manifolds, cylinder head cover, etc

4. Then used fine sandpaper to go over everything again.

5. Redid step 2

6. I then went about spraying the brake booster, coolant tank, radiator, air cleaner, etc in black heat proof paint.

7. Renewed various hoses & clamps, etc

8. Very happy with outcome

9. All up cost me about $200 in sundries. And many hours of time, scraped knuckles, broken finger nails etc

BUT I did not remove or detach anything !!!

It can be done.

Nicolas Aristodemou · « **Reply #15 on:** October 16, 2020, 01:01:53 »

Dan stay clear of such exercise unless you want to built a show winning car. Should you start on such a project you can easily end up spending well over $ 20k depending on the level of detailing you do for since one thing leads to another. Just a set of new injector pipes with their mounting clips can cost you well over $1000. Maybe you will need new engine and gearbox mounts, new subframe mounts some rust repairs which will become apparent once the engine is removed...... the list is endless.....

Shvegel · « **Reply #16 on:** October 16, 2020, 11:29:37 »

Allesandro,
Unfortunately, your car is a 250 and mine is a late 280. The engine compartments are very different.

John Betsch - "SADIE" · « **Reply #17 on:** October 16, 2020, 13:05:03 »

Without outsourcing or removing the injector tubes, has anyone found any method or source of supplies to mimic the "cadmium" plating on various parts. I would consider it more of camouflaging idea

jb

mdsalemi · « **Reply #18 on:** October 16, 2020, 14:06:56 »

Quote from: SADIE on October 16, 2020, 13:05:03

Without outsourcing or removing the injector tubes, has anyone found any method or source of supplies to mimic the "cadmium" plating on various parts. I would consider it more of camouflaging idea

jb

There are a number of suppliers of "CAD look" paint; Eastwood is one well known. No matter if you are plating or painting, you are only going to get a good job if you remove the item(s) in question; they need proper prep.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-silver-cad-aerosol-12-oz-53.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-golden-cad-aerosol-12-ounce.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-golden-cad-complete-kit.html

Runale · « **Reply #19 on:** October 17, 2020, 16:23:44 »

Thanks anyway for the helping hand!

andyburns · « **Reply #20 on:** October 28, 2020, 05:40:10 »

A bead blaster is an amazing detailing tool.

Benz Dr. · « **Reply #21 on:** October 28, 2020, 06:43:27 »

Zinc chromate plating isn't expensive to have done. All the work to get it ready takes time because it's a lot of hours. Some parts I paint with gold spray paint because they can't go into a plating solution. Barometric compensators, electric solenoids, or anything with a cavity that can't be drained or cleaned out should be avoided.

Pengue · « **Reply #22 on:** November 02, 2020, 00:44:19 »

I just posted a few pictures. Let me know what you think. Thanks again for all your input.

Pengue · « **Reply #23 on:** November 02, 2020, 00:51:04 »

I had a front end oil leak. Replaced the front seal and collar, replaced the O ring on the timing chain tensioner, while I was that deep in I replaced the water pump and thermostat and re cored the radiator.

The incremental cost is not significant and it just makes sense.

Pengue · « **Reply #24 on:** November 02, 2020, 00:55:30 »

My email is dan.pengue@gmail.com or you can text me at 203 561 9019.

Can't wait to see your stuff. Thanks.

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Author Topic: Engine Detail (Read 5862 times)