Author Topic: New Member contemplating a light restoration of my father's car of 35 years  (Read 1788 times)

bwiele

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Hello to all,

This is my first post on this forum, which I'm very grateful to have found.  I've spent the last couple of weeks looking through the various posts and topics (including Andy Burns' exhaustive restoration story).  It's great to have found such an awesome resource related to these cars.

As quick background, my father bought a lightly restored 1965 230 SL in 1984 when we lived in Paris, France.  He imported the car to the US in 1986 and has had it in the US ever since.  The car has moved around the country with him over the years, but has spent the last 20 years in California.  My dad isn't really a "car" guy, and unfortunately he really did the minimum amount of upkeep needed to keep the car running and usable.  Late last year he decided he needed to simplify his life a bit, and it was time to get rid of the car.  My siblings weren't really interested in the car, and I didn't want to let it out of the family so I bought it from my dad (at a family price) and shipped it from CA to NY.  In contrast to my father, I am a "car guy", although I have no real experience working on cars aside from the basics.  I am very proficient at detailing and cosmetic maintenance.

I have been planning a modest mechanical and cosmetic restoration of the car not for any type of show purposes, but simply to have an attractive and usable driver car.  The project list includes such things as finding and stopping the oil leaks that have been going on for years, refinishing the hard top, replacing the soft top, replacing the seat covers and foam cores, replacing the seat belts, and doing some restoration to or replacement of the leather on the dashboard.

Step one is to deal with the oil leaks from engine, the cooling system leaks and the rear differential leaks.  I found a local mechanic (based on a friend's referral) who doesn't specialize in vintage Mercedes cars, but has worked on some, but he generally specializes in vintage cars.  He seems knowledgable and pretty familiar with the car.  He has been working to identify the areas where the leaks are coming from so we can create a plan of attack to solve the issues.  The car actually runs pretty well.

Today, he did a leak down test and called me quite concerned about the fact that cylinder one is leaking significantly, to the point that he's surprised that car is running as well as it is.  He suggested, unfortunately, that the only real course of action to solve this problem for the long run is an engine rebuild (or an exchange of this engine for another rebuilt one).

I was looking for some input & suggestions from the knowledgeable experts here - (1) is this the right conclusion from the result of the leak down test, (2) are the other reliable solutions to this problem (that won't just lead to other potential issues), (3) are there recommendations for good service providers that can rebuild this engine, or (4) who are dependable suppliers of rebuilt engines (I am aware of Buds Benz and I also saw Metric Motors in the Supplier Listing on this site.

This will be a long and almost certainly uneconomic restoration process (which I understand and I'm OK with) so I expect to be asking for a lot of help and input along the way.  I will give back to the information base in whatever way I can along the way.

Thank you in advance for any help and input on the engine questions.  As a parting shot, here's a picture of the car (and me) in December when the car was still in California.

« Last Edit: November 15, 2020, 14:28:36 by bwiele »

Cees Klumper

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Welcome to the group, nice story about your car.
The leakdown results of cylinder 1 could be caused by the head/valves rather than a worn cylinder / piston or rings. So it may be good to check the head first, before comitting to a full rebuild of the entire engine. Do you know the compression of all cylinders? Oil pressure good?
Others with more knowledge will comment soon I'm sure.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

Pinder

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Very nice car. I think you should do the compression test and get the numbers. Also drive it around before doing any kind of major rebuild. get the minor kinks worked out first.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

stickandrudderman

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A leak down test requires competent interpretation.
It should be possible to determine where the leak is: cylinders/rings, ex valves or inlet valves.
If it's the valves then it should just be a matter of cylinder head overhaul but the trouble is once you get the head off you might reveal damage to the bores and then you'll be faced with a dilemma.
My view is that if it's running well enough just leave it alone.

badali

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I agree with Stick.  If it is running well enough just leave it alone.  My car has some leaks here and there but it starts easily and drives great.  I was at PUB in Blacklick OH about 10 years ago and everyone was testing CO2 emissions and some people were making adjustments.  My car was way out of "spec" but it runs fine.  I declined to change any adjustments.  I have put 14,000 mostly trouble free miles on the car.  Fix what is easy for now and drive and enjoy it.  Once you start taking it apart it could be years and big $$$ before you get it back together.
Brad

1961 220 Sb
1966 230 SL (Sold)
2019 E 450 4 Matic
2022 GLC 300 4 Matic

bwiele

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Thank you for the warm welcome and the input.  I'm really liking the direction of travel of this advice!  On one hand, seeing what some others have done to improve the appearance and running of their cars inspires me to do a more fulsome restoration.  On the other hand, I am struggling with the idea of rebuilding or replacing an engine that has consistently started even after months of sitting around in my dad's garage and is still running well (although there's definitely some smoke on a cold start up).  I'm keen to get any other thoughts and input, but for now I'm leaning toward replacing seals and servicing some of the other components (fuel injection pump, water pump seal, crank shaft seal, clutch) and seeing how things develop over time.  It my be that some of the money spent now will end up having been wasted, but it's far less invasive and much lower cost.  Plus, it keeps the original engine with its original chassis, which has some intrinsic value.  This will also give me more time with the car to figure out if I (and my wife) enjoy having and using it.

I welcome any reactions or comments.

FresnoBob

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I have a similar story of purchasing my 1966 230 SL from my father in law.  He bought it in Germany in 1981 and imported it immediately.  The car sat for 24 years as I was living in Singapore at the time, so when I decided to start restoring it, scope creep became my constant challenge.  I initially replaced the leather on doors and seats, refinished the wood, replaced the carpet and various mechanical upgrades (radiator, power steering pump, fuel pump, brakes, shocks, motor mounts, linkages, etc.). 

Once Covid hit, I needed a project, so as the car burned oil badly and the compression was low, so I bought a Metric Motors rebuilt 250 motor from a friend.  Lots of suspension, body, transmission upgrades were completed too.  I would highly recommend you consider Metric Motors in Los Angeles if you wish to rebuild your engine.  I also recommend Gus at Pacific Fuel Injection if you decide to rebuild the injection pump. 

I've easily exceeded $30k in parts and I've done all the work myself.  Hope your "family price" was low enough, that if you decide to restore the car, scope creep can be managed.   
Bob Comstock
1966 230 SL Euro Auto
2017 AMG C43 Cabriolet