Good Super Bowl Sunday to All.
I bought a 1970 (manufacture April '70 113044 12) in October 2020. With it came scant records. Only service records from June/July 2018. That's all the documentation I have.
It's evident that the car has very few miles (11) added on the odometer in the last 3 years. When delivered, I went out for a very short drive. The car started easy and clean. Idle was smooth at RPM around 1K. But the car would barely run for the 1.5 miles I drove it. Really rough under load.
In those few minutes, the odometer did register the ride.
Got it in the garage and up on stands. Siphoned and drained the gas. The siphon felt gritty and I had little doubt that about bad/stale gas.
Once empty, I got the fuel filter/strainer (BENZIN) out. Surprisingly, it didn't look bad at all. Not gummed. Bronze mesh not filled/clogged with particulate. Actually looks usable if I just brush it off.
Sender has some al oxide on surface as well as rust grit. Not terribly concerning. But there is heavy surface pitting below (bottom 1/4 of length) the 0.5mm diameter pin hole in side of cylinder. That pitting is noticeably greater below that hole than the 3/4 length above. I don't recall if the gauge was working properly.
Tank is out and currently being boiled and coated/sealed and external paint. With a little wrestling, that went pretty well. After it dried, I could hear debris/rust inside.
The fuel pump (large type) behind the drive side rear wheel looks newer. As does much of the tubing. From the pump to the engine the fuel line looks original.
So I need the cork sender gasket, a new BENZIN strainer, and a new gas cap (gasket on original is shot and gas was coming out fill when accelerating), some tubing for the venting at filler. Anything else?
Questions:
1) Should I be doing anything with the sender other than VOM continuity readings across the terminals while flipping it upside down?
2) I have to believe there is/was an inline fuel filter somewhere here. But where? Is fuel possibly being sent directly from the fuel pump/tank to the injection pump unit without any intervening fuel filter?
3) Can the evap control tank/etc be bypassed without sacrifice to performance? Those 2 small lines to fuel fill are going to be a bear on reassembly. Any tricks?
Further - as I mentioned, the car did start normally and with clean exhaust. Smooth idle. I believe that the fire/ignition source is all newer. Distributor rotor/points/cap/wires/plugs all look new as is indicated by service work records (July 2018, just 12 miles ago). Valve adjust performed at that time
The injection pump also looks newer. It is not the Bosch PES 6 KL 70 B 120 R22, but instead a Bosch PES 6 KL 70 B 120 R24.
I have no clue as to injectors. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Moving forward - I intend to reassemble and add 6 gallons of aviation 91 oct MOGAS. Check for leaks. New battery and start again for another ride.
Any suggestions?
BTW - Written by Mrfatboy - that F.I.P.i Fuel Injection Pump interactive simulator in the Technical Manual is awesome. If you haven't seen it - check it out.Go TB Buccaneers!!!