Engine oil

[Brennie]

Hi
I new here so, please bear with me.. simple question.. I’ve just checked my oil level and it appears a little low( on the bottom line) .. I’ve been told I need 10W 40.. are there any preferences?
My garage tells me they use standard Mercedes oil?? What should I be looking to buy here in the UK?

[Pawel66]

Brennie, if you use the search function, you will probably find about a million posts on this forum about this topic. Study those posts, I think it is worth it.

I think there may be more opinions and recommendations than Members, actually.

As a quick answer from a non-mechanic (myself) here are the key takeaways for me:
1. Stay with what manufacturer recommends, which is 20W50. You will end up with mineral oil most likely.
2. What is very important for oils for our cars is the ZDDP content - this is due to the type of timing mechanism we have. Most of oils today have lower content of ZDDP than in the past and not enough to protect our camshafts. It is easier in the US to find an oil with proper content of ZDDP (do not remember the number now) - I am hearing most of the muscle cars use it. There are also additives available. The only brand I could find in Europe, or its part where I live with proper content of ZDDP (and believe me, I spend quite some time on it, including mailing to various companies HQs) is Valvoline VR 1 20W50. This is what I use.

The oils used by Mercedes today do not have the proper viscosity and they do not have the proper amount of ZDDP.

So this is from a non-mechanic with overhauled engine. I am sure you will hear more form other Members.

Please change oil every year, even if you do not drive the car a lot. I buy oil filter change set from Mercedes dealers - this way you get several seals you need in a package.

[Brennie]

Thank you very much…
I wonder if this is good??

https://www.classic-oils.net/Classic-Oils-Heritage-20W50

[WRe]

Hi,
I use 15W40 mineral, non synthetic oil corresponding to Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids espec. 228.3 and 291.1 and Mercedes Classic Center:
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/index.php?language_id=1.
But as Pawel mentioned this is more than a philosophic question.
...WRe

[Brennie]

I’ve just spoken to a chap named Guy, who owns Classic Oils… it’s a fascinating subject and he is very eloquent on the minutiae  … sourcing products from around the world to be used in classic engines… he’s saying his Classic Heritage 20W50 or , in the middle, Classic Plus 15W50 …

[thelews]

It also looks dirty

[Brennie]

Oh no!

[Pawel66]

I’ve just spoken to a chap named Guy, who owns Classic Oils… it’s a fascinating subject and he is very eloquent on the minutiae  … sourcing products from around the world to be used in classic engines… he’s saying his Classic Heritage 20W50 or , in the middle, Classic Plus 15W50 …

If he is so eloquent, ask him about required amount of ZDDP in oil for rocker type timing systems, see what he says, then ask him which product he recommends has this amount of ZDDP, ask to document it with product card, then check the amount here on this site.

A lot of vendors are very eloquent, a lot of brands do great marketing, but they often do not have what you need. I think best is to find a product of good known brand that has what you need. I would never put anything different in my engine.

[Pawel66]

It also looks dirty

Your oil indeed looks fairly dirty and  there is very little of it. That is why I wrote "change it every year". This is simple and basic, but extremely important care element.

[Delvis]

Last month the MBCA (Mercedes Benz Club of America) Peachtree section hosted "The Theology of Oil" tech session. they have posted the video  on their YouTube page, MBCA Peachtube.

link to the video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtTHmLmWXno

hopefully this helps.

[Brennie]

Yes.. this is very strange because, I’ve not long had the car and, I bought it from one of the “leading lights” of the Pagoda world in the UK..  someone of high repute..he told me that it had been fully serviced, or , fettled, to use his expression… being really non- mechanic, I trust in other people…
Therein lies a lesson…

[Paul & Dolly]

Hi Brennie

Quite a lot of us use Valvoline RacingVR1 20/50, a Mineral oil with historically a high ZDDP content, its about £30 for 5 litres, beware of some Ebay suppliers, I have used the following but other suppliers are available.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/valvoline-vr1-racing-oil-250069/ 

Recently however EU regulations has persuaded many companies to reformulate their additive packages, and many Suppliers are evasive when it comes to publishing the quantity of the additives in their oils, making it impossible to really know what you are getting.

Your oil looks low and well used to me, I would top it up or get it & the filter changed by someone that knows our cars,  rather than "fettled"

Which model Pagoda do you have ?

Keep safe

Paul

[WRe]

Hi,
your oil looks really dark and dirty. If this does not come from any wearout my first idea was that your last service used synthetic motor oil because this has a high cleaning power.
Attached a list of motor oil with high ZDDP content.
...WRe

[Brennie]

I wonder if this is any good?

[Brennie]

This

[Pawel66]

No idea about this brand. But to note: if your engine is rebuilt, all your seals and gaskets are made of modern materials.

What you need, however, is ZDDP.

[Brennie]

Thank you all for such sage advise…I have an SL 230 1964( had that date on a little card inside the rear view mirror that I dismantled to have remirrored and chromed)… I’ve only done about 600 miles (if that) since I bought it...the UK weather has been awful until now..my first job now is to get the oil and filter changed..

[MikeSimon]

The dreaded "Oil Thread". On many "motor forums" it is being frowned upon and sometimes ridiculed, as there are as many opinions about what oil to use as forum members have fingers.
That being said, here is mine:
- Depending on where you live and how you operate your SL, use a 20W50 as it may run mostly at higher temperatures and you have no need for a 0W... 10W.. or such. 20W50s are mostly excempt
  from the API spec requirements limiting ZDDP
- As others have said, use an oil that has a ZDDP content over 1200ppm, because of the "flat tappets"
- use a synthetic to avoid sludge build-up
- If you park your car for a "no-driving" season/period, change the oil BEFORE you store to get rid of all the moisture and agressive contaminants.
- I have used Mobil1 20W40/50 but I cannot find this anymore, as a non-synthetic, Shell Rotella for Diesel engines is a good available alternative


Recently, I found this:

[dakman29]

Not easy to find, even here in the States but Kendall GT 20-50 is all I ever use

[Jonny B]

Also, if you are new to the forum, and the car. Along with the oil, be sure to check the oil filter canister. This has been discussed at length regarding the need for the rubber gasket at the top of the filter - the gasket is in the bracket attached to the engine and DOES NOT come with the oil filter. You need to purchase this separately. In many cases, this gasket is not present, and lead to a short circuit of the oil around the filter.

Here is one thread to assist - the gasket I mentioned is at the top of the filter
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=29618.msg214305#msg214305


See the post by McMahon, with a diagram, the item I am referring to is no 37.

[Brennie]

Thank everyone so much for your input … it’s a broad church of opinion and advice.. and, I’m looking forward to many years with my car learning all I can.. on this subject, I feel I’ve learned enough to make me confident while talking to the mechanic who may do the work.. I think I helps to have a little knowledge during discussions…
Next question.. could I do it myself.. oil and filter change I mean? I don’t mind getting messy…

[WRe]

Hi,
changing oil is not difficult, basically just two screws after lifting the car a bit: oil drain screw and oil cannister screw. Last a little bit messy.
Oil and filter are not expensive compared to workshop costs.
...WRe

[Jowe]

Have a look in the Maintenance Manual here: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Restricted/ServiceManual

[MikeSimon]

  Change the oil after you warm up the car, i.e.: run it for a few minutes. The thinking behind is, that you want to suspend all the contaminants in the old oil and drain them out with it.
While it is not a requirement, I think that possessing a basic set of skills in maintenance is of advantage when owning an older car: Changing the oil, adjusting the valves, changing brake pads, adjusting drive belt tension. Otherwise you will end up at a service dealer when the cars has a blown fuse or is low on tire pressure.
The Kendall is a good oil. I have used that in my 914-6.

[Pawel66]

Thank everyone so much for your input … it’s a broad church of opinion and advice.. and, I’m looking forward to many years with my car learning all I can.. on this subject, I feel I’ve learned enough to make me confident while talking to the mechanic who may do the work.. I think I helps to have a little knowledge during discussions…
Next question.. could I do it myself.. oil and filter change I mean? I don’t mind getting messy…

You received link to Technical Manual that will lead you step by step. I would buy the hardware from Mercedes dealer - you get most of the parts in the set, except the thick rubber ring mentioned, that you need to order separately

A 000 180 00 09 filter element set, ca $15-20

A 000 184 33 80 the special thick rubber ring, as mentioned, not coming out with the filter, may feel and look like a piece of metal up there; better replace it as it might have lost its flexibility

A 000 184 32 80 another gasket at the bottom should you decide to replace it, but it is more complicated and may not be necessary, it is difficult to remove it without damaging a hat like piece that holds it

My best advise (as a weekend mechanic) - make sure you screwed in the drain plug before pouring the new oil.