Cold start solenoid plate

[MarkCan]

I would like put this piece on the manifold but it’s condition is far from being ready.
As you can see on the attached pictures, some rather harsh intervention is needed. In order to persevere the fuel jet I would like to have the jet tower removed for the blasting process. Is that possible after 50 years?

[wwheeler]

If you are wanting to replace the tag, might contact this guy - http://www.ebaystores.de/oldtimerteilehandelgoch/_i.html?_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=1&_pgn=3&_nkw=Bosch+schild&_sid=1017172499&

He made several tags for me on my W128 ponton coupe and some for the W111. He did this for Pawell and myself as a project. He has a EP/EV 2/4, but didn't see the EP/EV 2/3. The quality is not quite as good as the original. But looking at it in the engine bay, it looks just as good. Way better than the condition most are in now.

I ground the plate's rivet heads off and kept the studs. I used those to mount the new tag and used an adhesive as well. 

[Benz Dr.]

You can remove the spray nozzle without damaging it most of the time. Clamp it in a vice and carefully twist back and forth until it comes loose. Install by taping it back into place. 

[MarkCan]

You can remove the spray nozzle without damaging it most of the time. Clamp it in a vice and carefully twist back and forth until it comes loose. Install by taping it back into place.

Thank you. I’ll attempt in the morning after overnight penetrant soak.

[MarkCan]

This piece feels like it was welded together. Let me show you the inside from another angle.

[MarkCan]

Should I be able to press it out from the top (red circle)?

[Benz Dr.]

No. Do it the way I described. You could easily damage the nozzle by trying to push it out.  That CSV looks mighty rough.

[MarkCan]

No. Do it the way I described. You could easily damage the nozzle by trying to push it out.  That CSV looks mighty rough.

Thank you Dan.
I'll continue to persuade the nozzle   Provided I get it out I shall be able to make the body look close to new. I still experiment with glass honing and I'm slowly getting to the point where I like the results.   

[MarkCan]

Third time lucky.
The nozzle is out.
Can I try to remove the inner tube as well?

[Benz Dr.]

I don't know because I never tried.

[MarkCan]

It took way longer to remove the rust with the tube attached but the risk factor stayed pegged at 0%. All inside channels are flowing just like new from the factory.😀 I’m glad I didn’t rush that job.
Here is how it looks now.

[Benz Dr.]

That is a massively expensive part - even used. Good you were able to sort it out. Place the nozzle back in the same position so it will spray in the right directions.

[enriquegarcia]

Very impressive results! And without harming either the tag or the raised lettering. Would you mind describing the process you used? Nice job!
- Enrique

[Cees Klumper]

Media blasted?

[MarkCan]

That is a massively expensive part - even used. Good you were able to sort it out. Place the nozzle back in the same position so it will spray in the right directions.

Thank you Dan. I remember you explaining to me the inner workings of the part. Than the guidance with the nozzle removal. I did the easy part.

Media blasted?

Yes, dry an wet👍

Very impressive results! And without harming either the tag or the raised lettering. Would you mind describing the process you used? Nice job!
- Enrique

Enrique, I toyed with the idea of removal and re-attachment of the plate but I knew it would be next to impossible to achieve the original riveted look in my semi equipped shop. After experimenting on other pieces I decided to mask it. Painters tape works really well. Needed to be replaced few times during the process but overall it was a significant time saver.
The process was simple yet time consuming;
First I cleaned the complete unit (less the solenoid) in the parts washer.
Then attempted the nozzle removal. Follow Benz Dr. advice and succeed.
Run the tap through the threads, especially the crusty M18 1.25. Vacuum was my best buddy here.
Seal all the fuel channels.
Dry, low pressure blast with crushed glass bead. (Part needs to be completely clean and dull.)
Wet glass bead hone at 20psi. At such low pressure it takes forever to hone but the masking tape can still withstand the blast. Without the plate in the way pressure can almost double.
Remove all the covers and rinse well with hot water.
Dry and rust protect immediately.

[Kevkeller]

What is your wet blaster setup?  I didn’t know that technique existed.

What kind of finish do you put on the metal?

Nice job anf thank you for sharing.

[450sl]

You might want to search for these rivets for the tag..

mark

[ejboyd5]

Visually an excellent job.  Please illustrate your equipment.

[MarkCan]

You might want to search for these rivets for the tag.
mark

Thank you for the tip. They will indeed make the job easier and allow for even better finish.

What is your wet blaster setup?  I didn’t know that technique existed.
What kind of finish do you put on the metal?
Nice job anf thank you for sharing.

Four stage job is the short answer.
Initial/manual cleaning, parts cleaner bath, dry blasting with light abrasive media like crushed glass and the wet low pressure blast with glass bead. The last step is what gives the like new finish.

Visually an excellent job.  Please illustrate your equipment.

I can take a pic tomorrow, but all it is is the dry blasting cabinet that I converted to work with water as the base for the media. Since I operate on a small foot print I decided to do away with the dry blasting and I have it done somewhere else for a small fee. This way I’m in full control of the quality and I keep the dust away from the engine.