Exhaust paint

[Raymond]

I am about to have my exhaust manifolds bead blasted and I am wondering how to re-finish them.  I know regular engine paint won't stand more than about 500 degrees F.  I am not in the market for a pro to do ceramic coating.  Is there a recommended flavor of paint and application technique for a DIYer?  

I'm going to blast other parts too. For instance, the intake manifold, engine mounts.  Once they're clean and pretty, is clear high-temp paint a good idea?

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[jeffc280sl]

I've been very impressed with POR15 products.  I know they make manifold paint.

http://www.por15.com/subcat.asp?id=4

I have not used it however.  Don't let this stuff dry on your hands.  It's like getting a tatoo!

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[norton]

Try Eastwood, http://www.eastwoodco.com/

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

[Cees Klumper]

What I did is pick up any old high-temp flat dark gray spray paint at my local hardware store. I applied that 6,000 miles ago, it was very easy and came out looking very nice, and has lasted perfectly so far.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Vince Canepa]

VHT is the old standard for exhaust paints.  Their website is  http://72.10.43.141/index.htm    Performance Products sells it and most speed shops.  I used the Eastwood product and was very disappointed.  I painted my entire exhaust with VHT and it has held up surprisingly well over twenty years.  One alternative that may be cheaper than ceramic is to have the manifolds metal sprayed with aluminum.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[mdsalemi]

quote:Originally posted by Raymond

I am about to have my exhaust manifolds bead blasted and I am wondering how to re-finish them.  I know regular engine paint won't stand more than about 500 degrees F.  I am not in the market for a pro to do ceramic coating.  Is there a recommended flavor of paint and application technique for a DIYer?  

I'm going to blast other parts too. For instance, the intake manifold, engine mounts.  Once they're clean and pretty, is clear high-temp paint a good idea?

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

Ray,

Having professional high temperature coating applied is not that expensive; a lot of the labor is in the bead blasting which it sounds like you are going to do anyway.  There are a lot of DIY'ers in our group, and I'd argue with them that professional finish and refinishing jobs, whether it be a fine Glasurit paint job on your car, or a high temp coating on your manifolds, is not something to try at home.  You don't have the tools or the experience, else you'd be in the business and not ask questions like this!

Check these guys out--

http://www.exoticcoatings.com/aboutus.html

I've used them for plain powder coating, results were amazing, price reasonable.  No doubt they'd be the same on their high temperature ceramic coatings.

If I'm not mistaken, Tom Sargeant of our group had some of this done a few years ago.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[J. Huber]

Slightly off topic -- how do you guys feel about powdercoating the wheels? Mine are black when they should be 717 white and the local Powder guy quoted me 50 a wheel. Sounded reasonable.

James
63 230SL

[Vince Canepa]

One thing to remember when coating the exhaust manifolds - the thickness of the manifold at the landing for the nuts must be maintainned.  If a coating is allowed to build up, the exhaust manifold will be thicker than the intake manifold.  Since the nuts secure both manifolds simultaneously, this condition will cause an intake manifold leak.  My suggestion is that the surface where the nuts bear be left uncoated when using any coating but paint.  And for any discussion of originality, light gray paint is the correct finish for the exhaust manifold

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[norton]

Any time your painting, Prep is the most important part of the job. The parts must be oil and grease free and should not be handled with your bare hands After blasting, just the oil from your skin on the part can cause fish eyes, peeling, flacking and so on. Before painting the part should be cleaned with a wax and grease remover, or thinner, wiped off and use a tack cloth to remove dirt and dust, and remember don't touch the part with your bare hands.

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

[mdsalemi]

quote:Originally posted by J. Huber

Slightly off topic -- how do you guys feel about powdercoating the wheels? Mine are black when they should be 717 white and the local Powder guy quoted me 50 a wheel. Sounded reasonable.

James
63 230SL

Jim, my wheels were rusty, had them powder coated.  Two of the wheels were older style and painted silver; had them all powder coated at $60 per in the proper semi-gloss black.  Looked darn fine when they were done.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[Bob G ✝︎]

I had the Mustang headers beed blasted and coated by Jet Hot. I am sure they could help you out. I also reccomend another product for restorers of automobiles called POR-15, they make specialized paints for rust and also manifolds called POR 20.
Their cataloge is availible from Jesser's classic Keys (330) 376-8181

Bob Geco

[Raymond]

Thanks for the tips.  I hadn't thought about the clamping thickness.  That's why this is such a great group.  I have a friend who bead blasts commercial compressor equipment and is going to do any parts I want after hours this week. (The price is a couple of oat sodas )  That's why I was looking to do it myself.  I'll check with some of the local powder coat places and see if they do high temp coatings.  

I have decided not to blast the intake manifold, just because I am paranoid about abrasive residue maybe getting into the engine.  I'll just use a brass wire wheel on that. So what's the verdict on that? Powder coat, aluminum paint, clear engine coat, or nothing at all?

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[Vince Canepa]

For the intake manifold you might try soaking it in solvent, then follow up with soaking it in full strength citrus degreaser.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[norton]

If you do blast the intake or any aluminum parts, you should use walnut shell blast media or Cast Aluminum Shot Blast Media This will give the parts the correct look.

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

[merrill]

watch out when you order stuff from eastwood.
I received a mityvac oil removal system from eastwood yesteday and they shipped the item in its retail box.  didnt even tape the bottom.
darn thing was beat up and partially open when ups left it.