Passenger Door Pull

[Charles 230SL]

got it, thanks Dirk.  If the threads are stripped I'll go with a (M4) Helicoil and as Wallace recommended, I'll get a kit with a drill, tap, and inserts.
thanks all for your help. I'll let the group know how it goes. Charles
   

[Pawel66]

After some experience i now put some red Loctite on the helicoil "spring" when I screw it in.

[mazmonza]

My door pull has always been on the driver side and none on the passenger side. Was this an option or was it fitted by the first owner?

[Pawel66]

Very early 230SLs had it on both sides, then it was deleted on the driver's side and stayed on the passenger's side, to the best of my knowledge. I think there is some info about it in the Tech Manual, it has also been discussed on the forum.

Passengers were tearing off the door pocket until the screw holding upholstery panel to the frame was introduced. Door pull stayed. Drivers were more careful, they did not need the door pull handle.

[mazmonza]

Thanks Pawel

[Charles 230SL]

I removed the passenger side door panel and was happy to find that the (4) threaded holes for the pull handle are in perfect shape. As noted, the pull handle is attached to the door frame with M4 panhead machine screws.  The photos show the holes in the door frame - note the two screws to the right of the bottom holes. In order for the handle/panel to clear these screws, the bottom mount of the grab handle is raised approx 2 - 3 mm. There's also a small (wood?) reinforcement block with 2 holes to support the bottom of the grab handle - I'm missing this little block of wood and I will need to fabricate one. I know this is a stretch but...would anyone happen to have one of these "reinforcement blocks" readily available, that they can photograph? thanks X 1,000,000, Charles

[Charles 230SL]

I used the method recommended by Dale (October 3, 2012) to mark locations for holes in the leather: https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=16914.msg119252#msg119252.  I must say that it was a bit unnerving punching through the leather for the screw holes - but all went well.

[Pawel66]

In order for the handle/panel to clear these screws, the bottom mount of the grab handle is raised approx 2 - 3 mm. There's also a small (wood?) reinforcement block with 2 holes to support the bottom of the grab handle - I'm missing this little block of wood and I will need to fabricate one. I know this is a stretch but...would anyone happen to have one of these "reinforcement blocks" readily available, that they can photograph? thanks X 1,000,000, Charles

You can kill me, I do not recall anything like that there... I will be where my car is on Friday, door upholstery is removed, I will check, but I do not recall any issues with the screws nor the "elevating piece" there...

[Charles 230SL]

ok, thanks Pawel. This is the 'reinforcement block' I'm referring to (picture taken from the Tech Manual)

[Pawel66]

I guess I just have round holes for the screws in upholstery plywood, otherwise you indeed need to equalize the levels so that the pull handle rosette fits the upholstery material. I do not know what was the original solution...
Anyway, if I were to fabricate them, I would use aluminum bar, say 3mm, not wood. I would drill 5-6mm holes, then cut the length to get the rectangular shape. Probably 10min of work each if you have a vice, drill and a simple metal saw.