Restoring the wood bows

[Pinder]

Does anyone have a recommendation on the wood veneer to use and glue to restore the wood trim on the dash? my speaker grill and console box are in good shape. Is the vaneer teak or something else?

[lreppond]

I just had mine refinished. Madera told me it is walnut.  And that makes sense since walnut is grown in Germany!   Conversely, teak would make no sense since it’s sourced from the tropics.  If the speaker grill isn’t going to be refinished, I’d use its current color and try to find a stain to match.  That can sometimes be challenging. 

[WRe]

Hi,
here you can see how to restore your wood: https://www.pagodentreff.de/diskussionsforum/pages/holzteileaufarbeiten/.
...WRe

[Pinder]

Thanks for the helpful replies

[mdsalemi]

I had my original wood refinished locally by a furniture restoration specialist during the initial restoration 20 years ago. It was fine, though not perfect. Never had any point deduction in a Concours, but there was minute veneer damage that bothered me.

When I had the windscreen replaced last year, I investigated Madera. I know that their work is nearly perfect in every way. However it was very costly.

Instead I bought a complete all new wood set from Authentic Classics. It was less than refinishing my old wood. Then I sold all the old which significantly defrayed my cost on the new. What I didn’t buy new was the piece in the hardtop for that was in excellent condition; for that I gave a sample of the new with it to the local refinisher who does Steinway piano restorations and he made them match.

Very pleased with my choices and all of it now looks perfect. The total net cost was significantly less than just new or Madera refinishing.

[dirkbalter]

I had my original wood refinished locally by a furniture restoration specialist during the initial restoration 20 years ago. It was fine, though not perfect. Never had any point deduction in a Concours, but there was minute veneer damage that bothered me.

When I had the windscreen replaced last year, I investigated Madera. I know that their work is nearly perfect in every way. However it was very costly.

Instead I bought a complete all new wood set from Authentic Classics. It was less than refinishing my old wood. Then I sold all the old which significantly defrayed my cost on the new. What I didn’t buy new was the piece in the hardtop for that was in excellent condition; for that I gave a sample of the new with it to the local refinisher who does Steinway piano restorations and he made them match.

Very pleased with my choices and all of it now looks perfect. The total net cost was significantly less than just new or Madera refinishing.

Michael,
I was going to do the same thing, buying new wood instead of refinishing the existing one. Some guys cautioned
me, saying that new wood may have fitting issues and may need rework. Did you or anybody have fitment problems with purchased wood parts?
Thanks
 

[mdsalemi]

Michael,
Did you…have fitment problems with purchased wood parts?

No. All installed w/o issues and it’s beautiful.

[Rahul]

I was told that to replace/refinish the wood trim on top of the dash the windscreen would need to be removed. Is this correct?

Had put me off getting it done.

[Pawel66]

Not necessarily, I did it with windshield not touched. A bit of maneuvering to fit, but tolerable.

[lreppond]

I was told that to replace/refinish the wood trim on top of the dash the windscreen would need to be removed. Is this correct?






No.  I had the glovebox and tachometer out and it installed relatively easily.  No need to remove the windshield. 

[Pinder]

I have the windshield out already as I wanted to put a new rubber gasket in. and while I am at it I will wrap the dash with MB tex I just ordered. I also have on order the walnut veneer. I've sanded the old veneer off completely. Its looking pretty good. Just waiting on the materials to be delivered. while I had the dash all apart I also changed the light bulbs for the vents and took the glass out on some of the gauges to clean it up.  taking these small nuts off the wood is a little tricky but luckly ive dropped a little weight so could get my hands back there.

[kampala]

In order to install the wood after the windshield was in place, I used the two-nut method to remove the studs on the wood. This makes it easier to install over the leather binnacle.

Then reinstall the studs from below — added a temporary bolt to the stud to make it easier to reinstall.  Once in place, remove the temp bolt, and install the blue nut.

Just be gentle. 

[Pinder]

another great idea.  I finally recevied the walnut vaneer. and I am impressed with how it looks. Right now i have the bows in vice clamps to make them straight. ill level them set up for a while. 50+ years of being warped.

[Pinder]

first attempt at vaneer failed! took forever getting the contact cement off. not looking good. attempt 2 this weekend.

[mdsalemi]

Working with unforgiving contact cement is extremely challenging as you have discovered.

More importantly, the art of veneering is truly an art. It’s one of the reasons why experts such as Madera Concepts charge what they do.

I have done a lot of woodworking over the years and even fabricated furniture. I draw the line at veneer! The original veneer on the Pagoda wood pieces is so thin that I decided not to even attempt refinishing that wood myself.

So keep trying you’ll eventually get it.

[Pinder]

Second attempt worked great.  So two days to do one bow. but its the harder one on the drivers side. I think the other one does not have the complex curve for the Speedo and tack so should go better. i havent stained it yet but will move on to finish the second bow.

[Pinder]

iiHere is a pic of one of the bows wrapped in walnut. It came out way better than I  thought it could.

[Pinder]

here is a picture of them re- veneered in walnut and ready for stain and finish.

I got some good tips from prior members posts. the best tips are:

1. align the vaneer such that the grain runs along the lenght of the bows. (easier to bend over the fronts).
2. use water on finger and dampen areas to bend and form slowly. keep wetting small areas at a time.
3. clamp using a rubber hose and clamps and also some painters tape to let it setup.

[dirkbalter]

Very nice.
Can I send you mine?

[Pinder]

I wish I had the time to Dirk. Im no professional and Id hate to mess yours up beyond recovery.  I have very little actual skills working with wood other than doing some woodwork in school when I was around 15 years old.

[kampala]

Pinder

Looks fantastic.  Same grain direction as original. Would expand more on where you bought the veneer, thickness, dimensions etc ?   Also I assume you did not use a vacuum bag or such? 

Nice work.   

My 280 wood came up great after a very fine sanding. However I am not certain the 250 wood will come up the same or I might have to re-veneer. 

[johnk]

Impressive!

[Pinder]

this is the Veneer I used. I think its thicker than what was original. It is paper backed and flexible. And I did not use any vacuum apparatus. clamped using rubber hos and clamps the concave section.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011QRAFMS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

weldwood contact cement used.

[lreppond]

Excellent work and the graining is perfect! Looks very much like the original  Anxious to see it stained and with finish. 

[Pinder]

That will be my next step. I think the veneer I used if it was thinner this would be a lot easier.  the one I got is 10 mil. i think 5 mil would work really well