Cone valve replacement on 67 230sl FIP

[NewToW113]

I have tried reading through all of the posts here and I see that many members say they plan to change their worn cone valves for the newer ball-style, but I cant find any posts that actually discuss the entire process? 

Can someone tell me is it possible and what is involved or point me to the post that outlines it?  Im assuming I have the older valve type, and I definitely seem to be getting leak down while sitting even after replacing the injectors.  attached is the ID plate to my FIP

[Kevkeller]

I didn’t think they are available, are they?

[Charles 230SL]

In Aug 2016 I upgraded my R11 cone-valves to the R24 ball valves and I've not had a hot-start problem since. Here's one of the posts: https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=24659.0;all.

Robert Fairchild (Jerry Fairchild Industries) had some used R24 ball valves on hand that he turned down to fit my R11 pump. It's possible to remove the cone-valves without removing the fuel injection pump. 

Robert Fairchild may be reached at http://www.fuelinjectioncenter.com (530) 474-4646       

[NewToW113]

Thanks Charles great info!!

[Charles 230SL]

Pagoda Notes Volume 8, Issue 1 (attached) has an outstanding article written by Richard Simonds on the 230 and early 250SL fuel injection pumps, and the problem of leak-down with the cone-valves.  If you've got a hot-start problem, the newer ball valves will likely resolve it.

Note: added attachment removed as it shares a document only available to Full Members on the open forum.
Systems Admin

The issue of Pagoda Notes can be found here: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Restricted/PagodaNotes

[Shvegel]

I am fairly certain both style of valves are not currently available.  The ball style valves were installed in pumps R22 and up.  As noted they are a different diameter than the earlier cone style.  At the moment the best way to get some is to buy a scrap pump that isn't internally rusted to death.  The ball style valves are very reliable (never seen one fail in testing)unless rusted.  Should you decide to track some down I have a mandrel for turning them down as well as a test fixture I can lend to you.

[Pawel66]

I found some of them on ebay a couple of years ago. They were for the price I would prefer not to remember.

[Kevkeller]

Should you decide to track some down I have a mandrel for turning them down as well as a test fixture I can lend to you.

Can you take a picture of the tools?  I think one of my check valves is leaking. Maybe I can whip one together too.

[Pawel66]

I think you have it described in our Technical Manual, there are also numerous posts about it. Members were very inventive about these tools.

[Kevkeller]

I should have been more specific. I’m interested in the check valve leak tester, not the removal tool. I made the removal tool in the past already.

I do have an injector tester pump I guess I could make a fitting to connect that up to the outlet of the check valve and test it.

[Shvegel]

 Kevin,
Just saw this.  Traveling home today.  Will dig it out and shoot some pictures.

[Pawel66]

I should have been more specific. I’m interested in the check valve leak tester, not the removal tool. I made the removal tool in the past already.

I do have an injector tester pump I guess I could make a fitting to connect that up to the outlet of the check valve and test it.

I just wanted to make sure you are aware that there is a check valves test in the BBB that does not require removing them from FIP.

[Kevkeller]

I did not know that. I’ll look next time I’m home. Thank you.

[Pawel66]

It has been discussed here: https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=32109.msg249693#msg249693