New carpet installed 1970 280 sl

[Pinder]

Yes the carpet replacement makes a big difference with how the air feels inside the car. i think i was coughing a bit form years of dust. It really does feel like a new interior now since I had also done the seats and part way into installing new retractable seat belts. Im starting to address those little details that makes it as close as I can get from when it rolled off the factory floor back in 1970.

[Jordan]

Pinder, great write up.  Thanks.  I have added it to my notes for when I start on this in about 2 months.

[Pinder]

Thank you Marcus.

 Here is a good video on the metal polishing. Maybe it should be in a different thread but I leave it here as it is one of the better ones.

https://youtu.be/Ft41IG2BAG8

[Jordan]

I thought I would continue on with this thread rather than start a new one.  After a lot of procrastination I has finally started on my new carpet install.  My carpet is not the original carpet and has been changed at some point in the past, just the wrong colour.  This thread and the articles in Pagoda World will be my guide. 

I have successfully removed all the old carpet.  It came out relatively easily, just peeled off the old glue.  The floor carpets front and back as well as the tunnel cover were not glued down.  I did however find 3/8" foam backing on the four pieces of floor carpets (see pic).  I've never heard this mentioned so wondered if this was something a PO added when installing this carpet or if the foam is required.

The floors are covered with the original thick black tar type sound proofing (see second pic).  I have not found any signs of rust where there is metal exposed, nor under the car, so I am reluctant to remove it.  You can see the rear tunnel cover, sides, and back wall covered with old glue.  How anal do I need to be to get all the glue off?  It is rock hard and mildly rough. 

As written in Jon's article, I found tiny staples holding the carpet in places on the parcel shelf.  I also found tiny upholstery tacks on the passengers side parcel shelf, under the lip.  They pulled out relatively easily.

How does one make the holes in the carpets for the floor and side seat belt mounts?  Do you just punch a hole or do you actually cut a small hole for the screw locations (also for the soft top lever)?

[Jonny B]

Marcus,

There should be no floor carpets for the 230 SL. The foot wells would be rubber mats, and color keyed for the interior. I would highly recommend to not glue down the transmission tunnel carpet.

If the tar mats in the foot wells are in good shape consider just leaving them in place.

We used a hole punch (be sure to get a sharp one) for the holes in the carpet for the hold down screws.

[Jordan]

Marcus,

There should be no floor carpets for the 230 SL. The foot wells would be rubber mats, and color keyed for the interior. I would highly recommend to not glue down the transmission tunnel carpet.

If the tar mats in the foot wells are in good shape consider just leaving them in place.

We used a hole punch (be sure to get a sharp one) for the holes in the carpet for the hold down screws.

Hey Jon, thanks for your comments.   I was not going to glue the front tunnel cover but I was going to glue the rear one (under the central tray).  Good idea about the punch.  I hadn't thought of that and I have a punch set so I can do any size hole.

I'm not understanding you about no carpet on the floors.  All the W113 carpet suppliers provide a carpet for the front floors and the rear floors.  Are you saying the 230SL's didn't have these and instead had rubber mats?  I've never consciously looked but I'm sure I've only ever seen carpets on the floors of any W113.  If you are correct when did the change occur and why do the carpet suppliers not supply rubber mats instead of carpets if that is in fact correct?

[BobH]

Hello, i asked the same question recently, and was surprised to hear that footwell carpets only appeared in 280's.  Seems 230's and 250's had rubber mats.  Carpets are now available for all models, i assume because in the 21st century drivers expect a bit more comfort and luxury, if you've ever driven a van with rubber mats in, you'll see that they rapidly become dirty and hold moisture and grit, and damage and tear easily, and it's not a particularly nice place to spend any time in for you or your passenger
Rubber mats are still available, and so for the sake of authenticity, these can be fitted and then covered by carpet mats, or Cocomats, but in my opinion, unless you have original mats, why bother paying out for new and then covering them with carpet, unless it's a show car

[rwmastel]

Here's a pic of my original brown carpet, floor mats, and door sills.

[Mike Hughes]

Rubber mats are still available, and so for the sake of authenticity, these can be fitted and then covered by carpet mats, or Cocomats, but in my opinion, unless you have original mats, why bother paying out for new and then covering them with carpet, unless it's a show car

Rubber mats are available in gray, but do they now also come in the brown tone shown in the photo in Reply #33?

[rwmastel]

I did this search specifically for topic subjects and found 16 threads.
 You could also try putting it in quotes "rubber mat" and NOT check the box for topic subjects.  You can also change the date range from 9999 down to 1500 to get just "recent" threads.

[J. Huber]

While I had the sill trim off I was able to remove almost all dings and scratches (there were many). they came out pretty good. I polished them on a buffing wheel and got them as straight as I could. I think they look so much better.

My sill trims are so rough, I think they are past restorable. Not only have they lost their chrome luster but they have lots of pry marks (opened up to insert carpet, then smushed down again). Imagine new ones are N/A or $$$$?

[lreppond]

The sill trim pieces are still available. I just purchased new ones. As you guessed, they are not cheap! But what is for these cars??? 

[Jordan]

Thanks for the clarification on the floor mats.  Learn something new all the time.

How do you remove the soft top lever?  I removed the screw on the inside of the soft top compartment at the end of the rod for the lever but the lever does not want to slide out.  Is there something else I need to remove?

[Pinder]

I recall it was a nut at the end of the shaft of the soft top handle then the shaft and handle slides out. But i cant remember exactly Can you post a picture of screw and where you took it out of?

[BobH]

Is this the handle you mean?, description on here

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=33560.msg245276#msg245276

[Jordan]

Is this the handle you mean?, description on here

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=33560.msg245276#msg245276

Bob and Pinder, yes that is the handle.  I removed the nut and washer as shown in this pic but the handle does not pull out.  I was reluctant to force anything in case I broke something.

Does anyone have a picture of the handle itself?  Not installed.  It will give me an idea what might be getting caught.

[Pinder]

it should push / pull out. try putting the nut back on lose and tap the end of the nut with a small hammer.

[Pinder]

I also fund small tiny nails / staples on the edges of the carpet on the shelves. I did not use any staples or nails. just glue down.  I also had some glue remains left over. its very hard to remove it all and it should be fine and not mirror through to the carpet. Just dont have any of the old carpet fibers around. pull them all off.

[Jordan]

I also fund small tiny nails / staples on the edges of the carpet on the shelves. I did not use any staples or nails. just glue down.  I also had some glue remains left over. its very hard to remove it all and it should be fine and not mirror through to the carpet. Just dont have any of the old carpet fibers around. pull them all off.

Thanks.  There is no glue or carpet fibres present.  The handle will move in and out maybe a 1mm but no more.  I'll try giving it a tap tomorrow.  I can't put the carpet on the back until I get that handle removed.

[BobH]

Here's some pictures of the bracket and bolts, obviously you won't need to take it all apart, just remove the nut and washer and there should be nothing else stopping the handle and shaft being removed, probably just a bit of friction.  Note all of the warnings about the cable retaining bolt being fixed and tight, if this comes loose the lid won't open

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=16952.msg116926#msg116926

[Pinder]

and dont close the lid while the handle is off. I did that mistake and it was a pain to open as i left the handle in the compartment.

[Jordan]

Thanks to this forum, Pagoda World and Pinder for the confidence to tackle this myself.  I did get the handle off, just a light tap and it popped out.  Not sure what was holding it in place.

So I just need to put the back corners back in place and reinstall the seats and I have another project crossed off the list.  The floor pieces and front tunnel cover were not glued down, as was the case when I removed the old ones.

[BobH]

That looks great, very professional, well done!

Your car looks like the same combination as my 1965, white, blue hard top, blue soft top, blue wheels, blue leather, although i have blue carpet, not sure if it was originally blue, as i don't have a data card

[Jordan]

That looks great, very professional, well done!

Your car looks like the same combination as my 1965, white, blue hard top, blue soft top, blue wheels, blue leather, although i have blue carpet, not sure if it was originally blue, as i don't have a data card

Thanks Bob.  The carpet I just removed was a light blue but I knew it was not original based on the data card.  Charcoal grey so that is what I installed.  Just finished installing the back corners, the seats and my coco mats.  I retapped the holes for the seats as the front ones looked especially grungy as well as the two holes for the parcel shelf.

[GM]

Nice work, Marcus!