230SL differential tapered cotter bolt?

[Ed Riefstahl]

Greetings everyone,
I've mentioned that I have a line on a partial rebuilt 230SL axle and was planning to just replace the axle. I've had some set backs and delays in getting it.

So in the mean time I've been messing with my old differential, as it's on the garage floor in two halves with a broken slip joint yoke anyway.
I can actually get a 230SL replacement joint. So, I thought I'd see if I can remove the broken slip joint. I've tried to find as much information as possible on removing the yoke, including on this list, with some success, but not regarding removing the tapered bolt.

It appears the slip joint won't come out unless I remove the center pivot shaft, (close, but not quite) and separate the two halves . It seems simple enough, but uncharted territory for me. It appears the only thing keeping me from removing the shaft is the tapered cotter bolt. I thought this would be simple and maybe it should be.

After removing the trunk brace arm, I removed the nut on the tapered bolt and using a brass hammer against the threaded end of the bolt and striking the brass hammer with ball peen hammer until I'm afraid of destroying the bolt. I can make a new bolt, but needs to come out or at least loose so I can cut it off.  I'll try heat today I guess. I'm a little apprehensive this, but it appears the pivot shaft must come out to split the diff in order to remove the slip joint.

I can't seem to find any differential rebuild kits / parts, for the pivot shaft on this differential either.
Any comments / suggestions are greatly appreciated.

BTW, My wife's last Chemo treatment is tomorrow - a very long winter and a big day for us. She's really looking forward to cruising in Ms Magoo this summer. We've been cruising together for 50 years. Hope I can get Magoo back on the road for summer. Our favorite past time is to find a road we've never been on. I plan to make that happen.

Kind regards,

Ed R.
Erie, PA

1966 230SL (Ms Magoo)
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1989 300SE (Majestic)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - Red 5 speed (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger (Step Side 54K)
2023 Mazda CX 5
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[Ed Riefstahl]

Hi folks,
Here's an update to my last post.
I got the tapered pin out with a little heat and the two halves came apart pretty easily. The tapered pin was much thicker than the threaded end. I did discover what the loose bolt went to that was inside the splined shaft that broke off from the yoke. The bolt wasn't attached to anything. It now appears it threads into the female end of the ring gear.

I'm wondering if this would contribute to failure. In the weeks leading up to the failure, the car made pretty significant clunk / bang in the rear.   

At this point I can just replace the split shaft / u-joint and put the differential back together.
All parts/bushings etc. look pretty good, however i'd like to replace those large rubber O rings that go on the pivot shaft, but can't find them. Also the rubber parts that attach the trunk mount to the pivot shaft.

Anyone know where to get the rebuild parts for this differential?

Thanks for any and all suggestions / comments.

Ed R.
Erie, PA

1966 230SL (Ms Magoo)
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1989 300SE (Majestic)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - Red 5 speed (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger (Step Side 54K)
2023 Mazda CX 5
Modify message

[ctaylor738]

I believe you need two #174 in the attached picture.  The PN is A1803510986.  Any dealer or the Classic Center should be able to get them for you.

Good luck,

CT

[ja17]

Hi Chuck, Yes it only shows two in the diagram, but if I recall correctly, It actually takes four of the 174.

[Ed Riefstahl]

Hi Chuck & Joe,

Yep, you are correct, # 174 is the part and there are 4.
I still haven't located a supplier yet, but haven't tried the local MB dealer.
As of today, I have everything else to put the axle back together. Got new solid boot too.

The Large O rings are actually in fine shape (nice and supple and no cracking at all), so I may just put them back on. I do like to replace rubber parts when I can though.

I even went to local NAPA and Ace Hardware today, thinking maybe I could match something up. Nothing that I felt was better than the originals I already have.

Thanks for your comments and suggestions.

Ed R.
Erie, PA

1966 230SL (Ms Magoo)
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1989 300SE (Majestic)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - Red 5 speed (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger (Step Side 54K)
2023 Mazda CX 5

[Harry]

Hi Ed,

I'm actually working on that tapered cotter bolt myself.  How did you apply your heat?  Heat gun?  Propane torch?

Thanks,
Harry

[Ed Riefstahl]

Hi Harry,
I actually pounded on that bolt, laying a small copper hammer against the threaded end and striking the copper hammer with another hammer until I began to deform the end of that hardened bolt.
 
I finally used a small acetylene torch and heated around the bold for half a minute. After a little heat, the bolt came right out like nothing. I think you could actually use a propane torch to heat around it just enough to expand the casting a wee little bit. I was surprised to discover that the tampered bolt was twice the diameter as the threaded end. I didn't notice that in the pictures.

Not sure if your removing the pivot shaft, but a little tip. Mark the end of the shaft to indicate where the flat spot on the shaft is located. It helps when replacing the tapered bolt.

Good luck and kind regards,
Ed

[Mike Hughes]

I finally used a small acetylene torch and heated around the bolt for half a minute. After a little heat, the bolt came right out like nothing.

When all else fails, fetch the smoke wrench!  ;^)

[ja17]

The last time I checked, the large O-rings were available from the MB new for around $4.00 each.

[Harry]

I got the o-rings from Authentic Classics, or Buds as I recall.