Subframe bushing replacement 1970 SL

[Pinder]

So on my to do list was to replace the subframe bushings. I read all the material I could find on this site. I ordered the (febi  ones sold by authentic  classics ) and spent this Sunday afternoon replacing them . I was afraid to do this job based on other’s experience in getting them fitted. I took Joe and Dr benz advice to do one side at a time and it actually was not so bad to do.  I still need to do passenger side but I feel I’m getting good at it now. Only issue I had was I had to remove the fan so I could drop the fan shroud so it not bump into the power steering front bolt which occurs when you drop the front axel.  I used a leaver to creat just enough space to push the bushing in the gap between frame and  front suspension. I did not need to disconnect brakes.  I feel good about how things are going. I think am stronger than average despite getting old. It helps.

[Pinder]

I also need to mention some great posts by Tyler who said to remove the bolts on the torsion bar.

Thank you. I could not have done this without being a member of this site.

Regards

   Pinder

[Jordan]

Thanks Pinder.  You always give me confidence to do something I question.  I have followed many of your threads and have been able to complete many tasks I may not have attempted without.  We are ALL getting older and keeping the brain functional is all part of the process.  If you and I make it to Chicago I have a few beer of other libations at your disposal.

[Pinder]

Thank you for the kind words.  Ill update here once I'm done with the passenger side. I did things a little differently than a few other posts.

Regards

  Pinder

[Pinder]

Ok both mounts are in. The passenger side was a little harder and I hat to undo the engine mount so that the intake manifold / throttle body did not hit the body frame . I also needed to support the engine via the oil pan and then using a pry bar pushed down pretty hard and squeezed the old one out and new one in.  It’s a bit fiddly  to put the 4 bolts  in so the light up. But not too bad. Now I need to put my fan back in which I removed so it won’t damage my radiator. In the process I’ve lost one of the fan bolts. It seemed to have vanished. Once I find that I can finish it up.

I feel good that I have now replaced both body mount bushings and the trans mount. Rear trail arm doughnuts and bushings as well as the axel suspension mount in the trunk.   I love the fact that all of these items can be done with basic tools.

I can state as fact that all needed replacing.

[Davek1]

I think you will really notice a difference, sounds like we are on the same path. I found the four bolts under the manifold a bit of a pain to line up but got there in the end. Roll on the summer.

[ja17]

Sometimes I temporarily use a couple small threaded studs installed in the two of the holes of the new mount, to help alignment. After I get two of the standard bots started I remove the studs and install the other two. Be aware that the four bolts on the SL are longer than the bolts of the sedans. Also you might want to run a tap through the four bolt holes on the new mount since the factory paint on the threads can make starting the bolts a little more difficult!

[Pinder]

I used two screw drivers to help align while i threaded the new bolts in. it was a bit fiddly but i managed to get it done. Took car for a ride and all good. the mounts I installed are by febi. old ones were shot.  Engine sits better now and much easier to put the nozzle/snorky from the air filter housing to the throttle body. it lines up perfectly and i have more clearance at the rear of the engine.

On the passenger side I didn't need to remove the CSV. I was able to get a joint on to my extension / ratchet that help clear the CSV. I used the jack handle on the rachet to break loose the 19mm nut on the top of the mount. Also i did not need to disconnect the brake hose, If you tun the wheel in it gives it enough slack.

[Pinder]

just took another test drive and I must say it does seem to ride better. i think its just overall smoother shifting gears and braking. Not sure why but I am happy with the results of all the bushing replacements.

[Ed Riefstahl]

Hey Pinder,
You're really making me think after following your posting. I've just finished replacing all the rear bushing on my 66, plus motor mounts (which were really bad) and sway bar bushings today.

I've looked closely at the sub frame bushings over the last several weeks. They are the same bushings that were on the car when we got it 21 years ago. They don't look too bad to me, but looks can be deceiving too. The motor mounts didn't look too bad either, until I got them out. They fell apart in my hands.

Wondering if I should consider changing them out too. I hadn't planned on it, but could sure could, even if it's at a little later date. Can't be much harder than those  motor mounts I wouldn't think. That was a tougher job on this car than I had expected.

Regards,
Ed Riefstahl
 

[Pinder]

Mine were definitely bad as when I jacked up the car with jackstands on the body. I could see that the mounts were in two parts. The rubber was separated. In the pictures I posted I put the top of the mount into the bottom. They came out in two pieces. They were easier to do than the engine mounts. If I had a helper it would have been easier but can be done by yourself.

[Pinder]

I will post picture of my old mounts so you can see what they look like when they are totally failed. 

[Pinder]

Here is what my subframe mount looked like once removed. You can see it has completely separated from the rubber meaning the bolt that went to the subframe is not attached to the body . It’s just in place due to the weight of the car.  It’s a good thing I replaced it. I could see something was wrong when I jacked the body up and when looking at the mount I could see the brass color cone shape which is supposed to be fused to the rubber the rubber. I think this failure could be caused by years of jacking it up from the frame and not the subframe? Or maybe it’s just old rubber.