Author Topic: Reproduction harness vs. Original ones refurbished  (Read 5489 times)

lpeterssen

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Reproduction harness vs. Original ones refurbished
« on: May 23, 2023, 10:44:40 »
Dear friends

On this link you can buy a cheap nice looking w113 repro main wiring harness for 280SL LHD Manual transmission with accessories as main fuse box, main light switch and terminals. Being sold for 700 EUR

https://www.ebay.de/itm/354796866278?hash=item529b8a8ae6:g:E2cAAOSwoZVkaHA1&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0NP1gS7gQ6f52iQrrWZiHPKz%2FNHxrmTZYf8DOpdkxXLmWg1YU1Gk7WlHf3Eok4TcB1fFGcDmMxXkmvHuriysMdZz9Un2G5Umjzvqwu%2BAcKvfcwhNTiHnEBIDCaASH3yR2zdhRaC3aUits2fxsg2wNeIiwSSXfwE%2Fi2btwYfjcBkwmvsKUk6T%2BwrkB94ZEfXdugEaYb5Ec1EjZ3Si92kSqN92LF8tc6uS5SWXPS3vF8yw4QO79nicEjhdjjXcSS8SxZZl6MYgITIu9%2FDzgh9CqGY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-7xg4KJYg

As you can see on the photos is being sold as new untested, with a defect.  Of course I may apply my Sherlock a Holmes habilitéis and make it work as it should to anyone who is interested.

I just wanted to pinpoint with this post the main things I observe on these reproduction harnesses that can be bought new in the range of 2000 Euros, just for the main harness:

CABLES COLOR CODING
===============

Cable color coding does not match in any way Mercedes Benz wiring diagram nomenclature. Here are used only plain color cables, with not coding stripes, which helps a lot to identify individual lines servicing a specific purpose.

If you ever have a problem with the harness, it would be much harder to identify the culprit as many times exactly the same colors are used by different accessories.

CABLE GAUGES
==========

They look thin, but of course I am sure they used the right ones, just a matter of using cables with modern pvc jackets that are thinner than the ones used on the 60’.


BAKELITE TERMINALS PLACING
====================

I do not like the way the connectors have been placed on this harness, there is much large gap between the end of plastic conduit and the terminal itself.  That needs minimum some velour tape wrapping at the end to protect cables from mouses , and to reduce the mechanical stress on cables.


For anyone interested in buying this harness and then make it work as it should, call Ghostbusters….

Best regards

Eng. L.Peterssen

dirkbalter

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Re: Reproduction harness vs. Original ones refurbished
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2023, 16:30:39 »
Since the topic says: “Reproduction vs. Original ones refurbished”

A little while ago, I was faced with the same question. Looking at my old 60 year old wiring harness, I could see that the insulation in certain areas was broken or chipped. Even though some of the wire strands seemed to be ok, others appeared to be worse and a bit of bending them back and forth would cause cracking.  The plastic or insulation of the wires was my main concern. I did not want to repair or restore the existing harness. I did not want to put wires with 60 year old, possibly brittle insulation back in the car.
I got lucky and bought a completely new harness from a forum member. The harness was manufactured by Rode Island Wiring Service Inc.
The harness was perfect. All colors matched, all wires were in place……..
I still believe, assuming its done right, a new harness is the way to go.
Feel free to correct or educate me. 
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
53 CHEVY 3100
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI

lpeterssen

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Re: Reproduction harness vs. Original ones refurbished
« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2023, 17:27:48 »
Dear Dirk

If done right, a new wire harness is in general better than the original. I agree in that.

But …. As many vendors try to save money in many areas, it is difficult that price oriented reproductions match the quality of your original harness in many aspects as:

1. Many repro harnesses do not have soldered terminals at the fuse box, just crimped.  Original harness was crimped and soldered

2. Many repro harness that have passed through my hands do not match the original cable coding colour scheme. I mean they just use plain color cables with no colour stripes.  Mercedes used originally up to three colors on a wire so that you can know it’s service without tracking it down to all its extend.


If your wires are full copper, as it is in most of the lines of the ORIGINAL MERCEDES HARNESS, and the external insulation is ok you can keep them for another 40 years. They do not degrade so fast.

Of course that main wires as T30 circuits which are always energized, with no fuse protection, these ones should be replaced; first because there is no protection against a short, I mean no fuse on those segments, and also because these  particular lines, even when they are full copper, they used a thermo resistant external cotton/resin insulation that does not withstand 50 years.  They are always in bad shape once you expose the cables.

Same story with T50 starter selenoid signaling cable. It may look nice, but that one suffers from softened external cable insulation, which means that any pull of the cable will broke the insulation.  Also, that one suffers from internal corrosion (more resistance for signals passing through), I presume because it’s made of a different alloy than full copper.

So in the case of MB pagodas even with a car not presenting any troubles, if the harness is still ORIGINAL,  have always present on your mind that those lines can not be Ok. It’s just a matter of time that the catastrophic event will come. I mean a fire….  Compromised insulation on always energized lines without any fuse protection will sooner or later come to that end.  First symptoms are batteries that drain faster than normal.

On the other hand, for non heat exposed original cables, like the ones that service headlights, horn, etc, those tend to resist the pass of time without major deterioration.

On headlights the problem which shows more often, is that they could be melted somewhere if any of the previous owners of the car installed 100 watt bulbs on the H4 socket.  That problem is only evident when you strip out all the external branches pvc jackets.  On a refurbishing job if that is the condition, lines are replaced for new ones.

The same  treatment is applied for critical ground lines which are on the engine compartment, they are always replaced for new ones.

The part of the main harness that is inside the cabin tends to show no important damages except the ones that could be caused by running circuits with bypassed fuses.

All that is deeply investigated and any damage is solved by replacing lines with new ones with color coding  and gauge matching with original wiring diagrams.

On Mercedes’ w108 story is different. I have seen many harnesses with internally corroded lines, I think that alloy used on signaling cables or for low wattage accessories is something different.  Any line in section 1 mm2 or 0.75 mm2 tends to have this kind of problems.

Examples are:

1. Brake light lines
2. Brake fluid lines
3. Reverse light lines

Etc.

Best regards
L.Peterssen

« Last Edit: May 25, 2023, 09:46:43 by lpeterssen »

dirkbalter

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Re: Reproduction harness vs. Original ones refurbished
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2023, 18:01:10 »
Once again, I am impressed with your knowledge on the subject.
I spend quiet a bit of time soldering the connectors / pins back to the harness. For me, it was enjoyable but it may not be everybody's cup of tee. 

« Last Edit: May 24, 2023, 18:58:45 by dirkbalter »
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
53 CHEVY 3100
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI

lpeterssen

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Re: Reproduction harness vs. Original ones refurbished
« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2023, 22:06:30 »
Many thanks Dirk.


But for those who has not visited the link on eBay for that NEW REPRO MAIN WIRING HARNESS for w113-280SL I invite you all to do so.  It’s not being sold by me, but I think that for someone in need for a wiring harness is a good deal for only 700 Eur including main fuse box, accessories, and all terminals already soldered.

If want to make sure that work has been done correctly you can send it to me for checkup.

Best regards
L.Peterssen
« Last Edit: May 25, 2023, 09:50:24 by lpeterssen »