Cylinder head removal

[Cees Klumper]

I was thinking to remove the studs as well. There are special stud removers for that. Problem likely will be to get enough access.

[Sens]

@ Cees. I just came back from the Provence last week! Coincidence!!

Thanks for your offer. I hope it will not be necessary.

Best regards, Halvor Sens

[Sens]

Ja17, you are right.
I just ordered a copper one.

Will be much better…

[wwheeler]

Hi Sens,

Yes that is my picture of the clamp trying to force the pipe out of the manifold. This was on my '60 220se coupe.  Like many have said here, it took about 4 days even with the clamp. The thing I liked about the clamp is that it applied constant separation pressure 24/7. I used penetrant, heat, hammering and it finally released.

The clamp doesn't have to be that complicated but used some scrap metal I had lying around. The split ring is nothing more than a wheel collar that I ordered. I then welded everything on that. I still have it and can take more pics if you need. 

[Sens]

Thank you for your comment Wheeler!

Another way to separate the two parts.
I will try the daily wiggling first and see what that will bring.

Thanks again!

Halvor Sens

[Sens]

Hi Wheeler,

In my situation it is even a little simpler.
I try to keep constant pressure, like you said, applying moderate force on the bolt to avoid breaking of the manifold.

And of course lots of penetrant, some heat, wiggling and... patience!

Halvor

[rwmastel]

I used this technique on the forward manifold, but I couldn't access the rear manifold connection to do this.  You may have better luck.

[ja17]

Good technique Halvor !

[wwheeler]

They always say KISS - keep it simple stupid! Yes, that is a very simple solution. I hope it works and it will get there!

[Sens]

Yeaaaah!!!

One down, one to go!!!!

I used M6 bolts to have more room…

Oef..

[rwmastel]

I'm not sure what size bolts I used, but I just didn't have access to get them into the lower/rear flange.  Maybe you found a better angle for your hands.

[Sens]

I got 2 of the 3 in place, but it was an adventure I must say…

I will continue this week and keep you informed.

Halvor

[Sens]

Still working on it…
No movement yet for number two, but nothing broken!

Patience and heat..

Halvor

[Sens]

Hello again,

I should be able to cut the horizontal pipe off the front manifold under the car and remove that pipe and then the front manifold.
This will give me enough space to move the rear manifold away from the engine (to the right) to lift the cylinder head.

In that case I would leave the rear manifold connected to its down pipe.
Assembly would be possible with the connection part as shown in the picture. Diameter of the pipe is 42 mm.

This would avoid the risk of breaking the rear manifold, exercising to much force on it.

Not a very elegant solution, but low risk..

Could that work? Or am I missing something?

Thanks for your comments my Pagode-friends!!

[ja17]

Try striking the front pipe near the manifold connection with your mallet. You can use a little more force since your not striking the cast iron directly.

[Sens]

Hello there.

Finally I chose to cut the two down pipes and I will connect them with the two thumb connections for 42 mm.

After my cylinder head repair I want to do a revision of my rear axle. So I will have to remove the exhaust completely; that is possible if you can lift the car about 2m . I can lift the car, but not that high, so I had to cut the exhaust anyway.

I used a sabre saw and it was an easy and safe , 5 minute job!
Pipes and manifolds are away now and now I will continue to remove the head.

I read something about the hidden screws. Are these the ones in the two pictures?

Best regards and thanks again for all the support!

Halvor

[gordon]

Mine had welded themselves together as well. There wasn’t enough stud sticking through the manifolds to fit a lock nut on so I put weld onto the stud ends and then used the manifold stud nuts to wind the studs out of the head. (The weld stops the nuts unscrewing off the studs)  Fit new studs with an Allen key hole in the end when reassembling

I hope this helps

[ja17]

Yes Halvor, those are the two hidden bolts. Remove the chain rail and bracket first to make the one below easier to access.

[Sens]

Hello,

The adventure continues...
Any idea how to remove the bolt from the camshaft sprocket?
Block the sprocket through one of the openings with a wooden support?

Or is there a better trick?
Or use the special wrench I found on the internet?

Thanks so much for helping me!!

Halvor

[ja17]

Do not block the movement through the holes in the sprocket. The cast steel is easily broken. Put the box end of a 22mm wrench on the bolt head and give the other end of the wrench a firm blow with your new copper mallet! A battery impact tool is also excellent. You should notice little or no reverse movement of the engine.

[Sens]

Thanks a lot!
I have all these tools, so I will give it a try!

I might buy the camshaft wrench later if it will not work...

Thanks again, Joe!!!

Halvor

[Sens]

And Yesssss!!!

The head is off! A hit with the copper pallet made the cam sprocket bolt free and the rest was relatively easy.

Thanks for all the support!!

Halvor

[Sens]

Hello again,

I inspected the Cylinder bores this morning.
It is clean that the engine made its km's or miles.

The surface of the bores looks more or less polished; you can see some taches on the picture, but in reality you don't feel anything. No scratches or whatsoever.
You can feel the ridge, caused by the top piston ring. Diameter bore is 86,5 mm; so factory spec.

Of course a total overhaul of the engine is the best solution, but my plan was to overhaul just the cylinder head to avoid smoking after idle.
In fact the engine runs smoothly and I will just use it for some trips in our neighbourhood.

Or is this a bad idea and should I go one step further and go for the total overhaul. Or is there a step in between?
Or stick to the first plan?

I am sure I am not the first playing with this dilemma!

Thanks for your comment!

Halvor

[Kevkeller]

I think you’ll need inside micrometers to read the wear accurately. You’ll need to take fore and aft and side to side measurements at several locations along the bore.

What were your compression readings prior to pulling the head?  Were you burning oil? There is a way to tell the difference between valve stem leakage and oil scraper rings.

I pulled my engine recently and sent it to Metric Motors.  Unfortunately it was trashed beyond repair, I did know there was water in the oil.  Even the crankshaft was too far gone from water corrosion.  Turns out the previous engine rebuilder did a terrible job, among other things they glued the sprocket to the shaft.

Metric Motors ended up getting me another block.  I had already had bought a new head a few years ago. Very little was salvageable. 

I now have a chance to clean up, repair, and paint the engine bay, which I’ve needed to do since I bought the car 23 years ago. It’s a big job but I wish I had done it years ago.

[Sens]

Thanks for your story: ups and downs, I can see that!!

Before repair, I measured the
Compression.

Compressie sept 2023 (kg/cm2)
1: 13
2: 12
3: 10,5
4: 10,5
5: 11,5
6: 11,5

Not fantastic, but remember there is a lot of wear in the valve guides…
I think it will improve once the the cylinder head repair is done.

Halvor, the Netherlands