Best engine upgrade?

[Ahealey12]

1967 230sl automatic…I know this car will never be anything like my zl1 or Chevelle, but the pagoda is a little wimpy for my taste. I have the technical knowledge and ability to do a swap but i know most swaps devalue the pagoda.  It’d be easy for me to throw an ls in but i know people would hate it. Is there anyway to get 175-200hp out of stock 230sl? Or a newer Mercedes swap that’s not gonna kill value? Cars an automatic and has been sitting two years so gonna have to go through a lot of it anyway, wondering if i should do some upgrades? 

[rwmastel]

There are purists here like me who appreciate these cars for what they are.  So, I would ask why you would want to keep the car if it doesn't suit your wants or needs?

There are also those who like to modify, upgrade, or modernize the cars.  They normally post in the Research & Development sub-forum.  Engine swaps have been discussed a number of times, so beyond the replies you'll receive here, I suggest using the Search feature.

Welcome to the Group!

[Ahealey12]

It is a family inheritance from my grandmother, actually the first car that got me into enjoying older cars. I will never end up selling her but hope to also make it a little more fun. I’m also in Texas and need to be able to go 80 to drive it comfortably anywhere otherwise I’ll be struggling to keep up.

I’ll take a look at that forum too, thanks!

[Pinder]

Take a look at this. old BAT auction.   there are some good comments to read. its been done well I think. But its risky. I agree with Rodd to try and keep it original but this particular one has been done nicely.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-mercedes-benz-280sl-41/

Regards

 Pinder

[Cees Klumper]

Pagodas in good shape can do 80 all day and is one of the more comfortable fast cars of its era. I had mine up to 120 no issues. They are high-revving though which isn't to everyone's taste. I replaced the US spec 4.08 differential with a 3.69 which brought the revs down nicely. I would make sure your car's engine is in good health, compression, fuel, ignition timing etc-wise first before swapping the engine.

[franjo_66]

The M116 conversion is a tastefully done one. And looks period correct.
There is a 230SL here is Australia that had the M116 3.5l V8 installed together with a later model 722.6 5 speed auto. Beautifully done and drives amazing

If you are keeping the car, then I am all for upgrading to another Mercedes engine option. There is also a thread in the Research & Development sub-forum on a M117 560 conversion that was very nicely done

Keep us posted !

[rwmastel]

I’ll take a look at that forum too, thanks!

We've been online 20 years, so instead of "taking a look", get comfortable with the Search feature.  Specifically, advanced search.  You'll find interesting information, and if you're really up for an engine swap then I expect you're up for some research.

[Ahealey12]

Damn didn’t know these can bring that kind of money!

I think this might be the route i end up taking, I’ll do a bit more research on it, looks decently straight forward (no engine swap is) assuming motor mounts and trans crossmember will need fabricating etc. thank you!

[MikeSimon]

If you are looking for 170-200hp, you could use a 280SL motor. The 130-983 was rated right in this bracket. And you remain as closes as you can to Pagoda original

[rwmastel]

... but the pagoda is a little wimpy for my taste ... Is there anyway to get 175-200hp out of stock 230sl? Or a newer Mercedes swap that’s not gonna kill value?

Yes, Mike's suggestion of the 280SL engine might be a great idea.  I highly recommend finding another member near you with a healthy 280SL who will take you for a ride.  This is easy as a Full Member.  You can access the membership list, sort by location, and contact those members near you.

Otherwise, maybe a newer 3.2 L M104.99x (217 hp, 229 lb⋅ft) will be the choice?  Seems physically easier than an M116.  Besides, the V8 wasn't a barn burner.  From the Wikipedia page:  "The original M116 engine 116.980 was introduced August 1969 in the 300SEL 3.5. It featured 9.5:1 compression with 197 hp at 5,800 rpm and 211 lb⋅ft at 4,000 rpm."

Or, keep it as-is and maybe it will grow on you.  Lots of people have several cars for different reasons.  They don't all have to feel like race cars.

[Ahealey12]

I’m hard to keep things original lol but it is a car passed down and it might just be better that way to keep as my grandmother bought it as. I’m excited to tear into her, hasn’t run in two years as brakes went out. Anyone have any suggestions of what too look for first? I know one reason i looked into swap too was the mechanical fuel injection, I’m assuming w the gas now says that’ll have to be gone through from sitting.

[badali]

The engine should be easy to get running with fresh fuel.  I have left cars sitting longer than that and had no problems.  You should go through the entire brake system since that was the reason it was parked.  Master cylinder, calipers in front and wheel cylinders in the back plus all the brake hoses to each wheel.  At least it has not been sitting for decades...

[JamesL]

They do seem to be revivable...

And the advice remains the same:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=36830.msg269282#msg269282

if it was running 2 years ago, you're in a much better position than some on here.

[rwmastel]

I’m excited to tear into her, hasn’t run in two years as brakes went out. Anyone have any suggestions of what too look for first?

Yes, as badali said, sort the whole system.  It's a safety issue.  When you dive into that, start a thread.  You'll receive tons of detailed information.

I know one reason i looked into swap too was the mechanical fuel injection, I’m assuming w the gas now says that’ll have to be gone through from sitting.

I wouldn't assume anything.  These mechanical fuel injection pumps are robust, so it may continue to work fine, or well enough, for years.  Again, when you dive into that, start a thread.  Don't assume anything about this car is like a GM product of the period.

[Pinder]

I would say that your existing fuel injection pump will come back to life with running some clean fuel or other solvents, it may have a few stuck pistons that will eventual free up. but if its only been sitting for 2 years thats not very long at all. getting it running should not be hard to do.  You should go through the usual steps to brining an old car to life, starting from the basic operation of getting the engine / pistons soaking in some lubricants , hand crank it a few turns , remove valve cover and check all the values move up and down, lube it up good.  drain fuel tank and flush out the fuel lines , clean fuel injects, re install etc. 

The fun part is getting it working again, (or it was for me).   There are some good videos on youtube, one by Kent Bergsma who bought a 280SL back to life. its an interesting watch. Its an interesting watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1ctQjecjSc&list=PLtRKk64pu2wr944il3QEC2wBaVKrgpzJh

[Mike Hughes]

If you are draining the tank and putting in fresh fuel AND in an area where ethanol-free fuel is available, try to use it exclusively in an older car.  Every single one of my collector cars starts more easily and runs much better on ethanol-free fuel and it does NOT go bad as rapidly as the more commonly available E10, OR WORSE STILL, E15 stuff.

[mdsalemi]

If you are draining the tank and putting in fresh fuel AND in an area where ethanol-free fuel is available, try to use it exclusively in an older car.  Every single one of my collector cars starts more easily and runs much better on ethanol-free fuel and it does NOT go bad as rapidly as the more commonly available E10, OR WORSE STILL, E15 stuff.

Recgas (ethanol free) is not uniformly available to all who want it.

https://www.pure-gas.org

Readily available here, even at the grocery store gas stations. In New Jersey it's almost unavailable.