Where to start? Not running

[Ahealey12]

Ok i finally inherited mu grandmas 1968 Mercedes 230sl. Been in family since early 70s, has had two paint jobs and a lot of work done in past. Was driving every day until about 8 or 10 years ago when she divorced. After that was still driving great (has always had the clunky shift issue for automatic) but then the brakes went out about 3 years ago and she’s left it to sit, hasn’t started it either.

So this is where i need help. Brakes- easy enough. I’ll replace everything.

Engine- i can pull a carb apart and run new lines etc but that’s the problem- it has the mechanical fuel injection. Where should i start? Should i flush the lines and try to start up? Should i pull injection pump off and pull apart then put back exactly how i opened it? Are there write ups on how to rebuild or kits? Or should i just go for it and see if she cranks? Not wanting to create more issues for myself if it’s gonna clog up the injection system.

Wanting at this point to get it back running asap and get my wife driving it

[Cees Klumper]

I would try and start it, after checking the oil and coolant levels. During the pandemic, I was not near our Pagoda for two years and it started right up. I had put some fuel stabilizer in when I left it but I think you have a good chance of it springing back to life. You can't hurt anything in the fuel system by trying, I believe. As for the brakes, diagnose things first before renewing everything, those calipers for example can run to over $1,000 for a set of 4 and it may not need them. 3 years is not all that long for a car to be sitting.

[Bshaunessy]

Ahealy12:
(1) what a great story and background ( except for your grandmothers passing).  You are blessed with an amazing car with a fascinating history….you and your wife will love this resurrected car. Very exciting for both of you.
(2) there will be several more knowledgeable folks chime in here ( including Cees Klumper above) who will give you sage advice.  Listen to all of it before you crank that jewel.
(3) IF IT WERE MINE ( I wish!)…..before even cranking……..be patient grasshopper…:
- drain and  refresh ALL fluids:
* especially the gas….after 8-10 years….it will still burn but only in a campfire! Gas, more than any other automotive fluid, degrades with time generating sticky varnish ( and other long chain hydrocarbons) deposits.  Drain  the gas tank and all lines that you can disconnect and reconnect.  When fuel tank drained or when draining tank  remove the gas tank drain  plug ( need a new crush ring to re-install…..there is a mesh strainer in there as well…clean that). Remove the fuel pump and clean/ re- install.  Change fuel filter.
* definitely drain and change the oil….and change the oil filter.  Oil may look ok but new oil looks and lubricates better. Strain the removed oil and look for metal flecks…sign of impending disaster.
* R/R ( remove and replace) the ATF in the auto transmission .  There is a replaceable filter inside the auto transmission …..not urgent but likely needs replacing.  You need to remove transmission pan to do so….consider yourself lucky if it looks clean once you get in there.
* R/R rear differential fluid.  Strain the drained fluid and look for metal flecks…early signs of pending failures.
* air filter probably ok as it hasn’t been on the road for 8-10 years
* R/R power steering fluid…..ditto…10 years idle…time for new fluid
* new battery ( must temporarily  disconnect the hood strap and return mechanism to get battery installed)….dont waste your time trying to resurrect a 10 year old flat battery
* my go to source for parts is Authentic Classics or Buds Benz….see advertisers this forum…many good and reputable and very helpful suppliers.  You are going to need a lot of maintenance parts
NOW…time to try starting!  If you are lucky it will fire right up.  If not…comeback to this forum for advice

So now it’s running CONGRATS!  But too early to send you or your wife out for a drive:
* R/R brake fluid…brake child is hygroscopic ( absorbs water…causes brake system corrosion…recommended to flush brake fluid every 2 years).  Check brake discs yourself or have a mechanic do it.  Likely your grandma didn’t worry about such things ?
* get new tires…..recommended life of current version tires is 10-12 years, regardless of wear….rubber in tires degrades with time
* Q? Maybe wash it before its inaugural drive?

Good luck. I wish you were near me as I’d love to help bring this jewel back to,life.

[Pawel66]

Not a mechanic here, so why don't I say something about mechanical topics?

I would have imagined that you may not be fully aware of the reasons why the car was left not used. Brakes - ok, but if you are not 100% sure I would also remove spark plugs (I would put new ones anyway) and try to turn the engine by hand - just in case.

As for the parts - I go for fluids and filters to Mercedes dealers first.

[Jonny B]

For someone beginning this journey I would highly recommend you join as a full member. This will give you access to the technical manual, where most of the questions you will ask, have answers waiting to be read. Plus you get two issues per year of our magazine, Pagoda World, and four issues of our electronic newsletter, Pagoda Notes.

And practice with the search engine, it can be a powerful tool - but you need to experiment with it for the best chance at a reasonable number of results. Doing a search and getting 40 pages of matches is not really helpful.

Good luck!

[zak]

There was no 230 SL produced in 1968 .
Was 1966 the last year ?

jz

[ja17]

A clean fuel supply is a must. Drain the tank and inspect the inside for rust. You can view the inside of the tank by removing the float unit in the trunk. Clean or replace the tank as needed. Change the main fuel filter at the engine. Remove the electric fuel pump and check to see if it is stuck or runs, clean the inlet screen while your at it. The engine oil and coolant should be changed prior to start up. Most of the other fluids can wait till the car is driven. Other things can happen when the car is stored, the fuel goes bad, the injection pump rack can get stuck, and the fuel mixture regulator (Warm running device or WRD) can get stuck. Don't blindly disassemble anything until you do your research here, we'll help you along.

[Ahealey12]

Thank you! I’m hoping something like this happens, but wasn’t sure since it a not the typical fuel injection or carb I’m used to. I’ll try to start out with replacing fluids, cleaning the fuel pump and checking cracked fuel hoses. 

[Ahealey12]

Appreciate the response! I definitely plan to replace all fluids before starting and brakes I’ll probably rebuild anyway just for safety and not too hard or expensive. Also replace any rubber lines too.

Biggest thing was she didn’t drive it too often my ex Step grandfather did and once the brakes went she just let it sit. I’m still having trouble finding a shipper as original shop date was supposed to be today. I’m very excited though!

[Ahealey12]

I didn’t even know about the technical manual thank you I’ll join on that when i get the car!

[Ahealey12]

Update- i am very glad that you all recommended the technical manual it is exactly what I’ve been looking for!