An experienced tech, with the proper tools, can install the valve stem seals with the head on the engine in three or four hours. If you go to all the work of taking the head off, it should be disassembled and reconditioned. Replacing valve seals rarely is the permanent solution for oil usage or smoking. The valve guides tend to wear with time and mileage. In addition, the new valve seals will have more difficulty staying in place on the old worn guides which are worn smooth on the outside. It might still be worth a try, but if you take the head off, get it re-conditioned.