my cure to over heating w113 engine

[laurie]

FYI. I've owned my 1966 230Sl since 1977, enjoying every moment both driving and working on it, she's up to 260,000miles.
While it is a 230SL, the engine was blown and a 280SE/SL was installed before I bought it.
Overheating while in heavy traffic or while idling has been a regular occurrence. Usually rising from 180F to 200Fplus.
I had the radiator rebuilt with extra coils, fitted a coolant bypass at the fire wall and an additional oil cooler along with a pair of 12" electric fans, all in an effort to control this problem. All having minimal effect.
I stumbled into an artical dated around 2016 or 17 and cannot find its, source, advocating the Thermal Time Switch, located behind #6 spark plug, be removed and a coolant line run from the threaded opening, tapping into the upper, return, radiator hose.
This I did, fitting an extension to accommodate the TTS.
Since this conversion, my over heating has been resolved, normal summer running, the temperature remains steady from 180 to 185 degrees. while in heavy traffic or just sitting idling, the temperature remains within that range. Many thanks to that unknown person.
Two pictures attached, questions/comments welcome. Sorry second picture detail of TTS is obscured by an after market auxiliary coolant pump fitted, that I will eventually remove.

[zoegrlh]

Where did you find the fitting for radiator hose?

[laurie]

I run a 2001 Jaguar XJ8 and fortunately the hoses are of excellent quality, even when I replace them with new, I keep the old ones.
That's what I used for this modification, along with a hydraulic fitting to screw into the cylinder head.
We are experiencing 30 degrees plus with high humidity, here in southern Ontario and the car is funning great at very acceptable temperatures, both on the dash and with infra-red readings on the head and new return hose (BTW. I don't have a/c).

[Bshaunessy]

LAURIE:
  An interesting overheating solution.  While I don’t fully understand the coolant routing within the block, I presume that by utilizing the TTS port to direct coolant back to radiator, you have effectively increased coolant flow through the block, thereby enhancing/improving cooling?
  Q? can you send a clearer picture showing how you mounted TTS in your new bypass plumbing Pls?  Also, I presume your TTS still functions as intended in its new location? ( still immersed in engine temperature coolant).

[laurie]

I sent a response with pics. but don't see it posted?
Please advise.

[mdsalemi]

I have an unopened box containing the factory "overheating kit" that was once created, probably by technical service bulletin. Someone sent it to me but since I have not had any overheating issues since a re-core, I have not even opened the box. Some kind of bypass system?

Anyone have any idea how these things may relate to one another?

[GM]

I found this in my files

[GM]

And this, with notes from Cees

[Cees Klumper]

Thanks for posting Gary. The credit for the comments should probably go to Joe Alexander, I would have just assembled them from the old Yahoo! W113 site before we migrated over to our own here, around 2002.

[WRe]

Hi,
I have tested a lot (bypass, electric fan, new water pump and thermostat, ...) to protect my engine for overheating but the most effective solution was to increase the efficiency of the fan, means the nearest distance to the radiator (you can arrange the rad) and a shroud after descaling the cooling system.
...WRe

[mdsalemi]

I found this in my files

Interesting to note:

"...MODIFICATION KITS SHOULD ONLY BE INSTALLED ON VEHICLES WHERE THIS CONDITION HAS ACTUALLY OCCURED."

Interesting, this "Advanced Service/Product Information (Internal)" from MBNA also states, in the first introductory paragraph,

"...despite the presence of the supplementary electric fan."

Note it says "the" supplementary fan, not "a" supplementary fan.

Was there a prior document indicating the fitment of this supplementary fan? I know there have been posts over the years where people talked about figuring one out...