Best method to lift the engine?

[Figoulu]

Hi all

I’m in the process of removing the engine / gearbox from the car

I was planning to remove the head first, engine in the car, and then use the head bolt to fix the hoist
Is it ok this way ? Is there any risk to ruin something?
In case it’s all right, are there any preferable head bolts where to attach the hoist ? (Ex: bolts 11/12 + 13/14 ?)

Thanks

[WRe]

Hi,
usually the engine with gearbox is dismounted by hinging the engine mounting supports  (45° angle).
...WRe

[Figoulu]

I know this method as well but I was keen to use my tilter (as shown in picture) to get the right angle.
It’s delivered with strong chains and metallic fixtures much more easy to screw somewhere. I could understand that using head bold, head off, and screwed on the block could fly…
The reason to do it like this is to see:

1/cylinder state as I could only see their scratch by endoscope,
2/ measure of the bore to see if the block has been already re machined or not…

[merrill]

20 years ago was the last time i did this.

since i was planning on sending motor, trans and inj pump out for rebuild i had the hood off, motor stripped but head and valve cover still on, unbolted from trans. radiator etc out.  (basically engine bay empty)

then used at tilter with some lifting straps to secure the motor to the tilter.
lifted motor with an engine hoist and basically rolled the car back until the motor cleared and then set the motor on a heavy duty pallet and support blocks.

[Figoulu]

20 years ago was the last time i did this.

since i was planning on sending motor, trans and inj pump out for rebuild i had the hood off, motor stripped but head and valve cover still on, unbolted from trans. radiator etc out.  (basically engine bay empty)

then used at tilter with some lifting straps to secure the motor to the tilter.
lifted motor with an engine hoist and basically rolled the car back until the motor cleared and then set the motor on a heavy duty pallet and support blocks.

Thanks
All the preparatory job has been already done
The purpose is about where to link the hoist, specially to the block, and does the head bold could work for that

[Leester]

Given the parameters you've chosen, I would go with the bolt holes that match up with the where your chains end up when you lower the hoist to the block. Said differently, go with approximately the same distance that your chains attach to the tilter. But I don't think you could go wrong with bolt holes 11/12 + 13/14. You could actually do the same thing with the head on. Just remove and reattach those same head bolts. Additionally, depending on how high your hoist will lift, you may need to shorten your chains. Some set ups allow you to just move the brackets up and down the chains which would accomplish the same thing.

[Kevkeller]

That brings up a question for myself.  I had my engine rebuilt. When I pulled it, if I recall correctly, I used the rocker bolts to attach the chain. Now that the engine has been rebuilt and properly torqued should I use the same bolts and then re-torque them to the correct torque for installation? or should I leave the bolts alone and use straps wrapped around engine?

[Leester]

Kevkeller: See reply #1 above from WRe

[66andBlue]

Hi all
I’m in the process of removing the engine / gearbox from the car
I was planning to remove the head first, engine in the car, and then use the head bolt to fix the hoist
Is it ok this way ? Is there any risk to ruin something?
In case it’s all right, are there any preferable head bolts where to attach the hoist ? (Ex: bolts 11/12 + 13/14 ?)
Thanks

Here is a photo of JA17's method. Looks more like using bolts 5&6, but better ask Joe directly.

[ja17]

I did not use a "tilter" since I know which bolt holes will provide the correct angle.  But a tilter is nice to use and works well also. I have a couple of extra head bolts that I use so as not to damage or bend any of the original head bolts. I also use a pre-made rated engine lifting steel cable assembly with heavy steel tabs for the actual lifting connection. It is good quality and rated for more than enough weight. Be safe! I prefer to install the engine and trans without the head for ease of installation. The installed block makes a nice working platform to install the head afterward. I have done it both ways numerous times, that's just my preference. If you are installing the engine assembly with the head installed be sure to use longer head bolts or remove the thick washers on your originals temporarily, so that you can catch enough threads in the block to perform a safe lift. I guess I am spoiled, I do not have to install an engine with an engine crane. My shop has a gantry crane which moves overhead anywhere in the shop and lifts with a five ton chain hoist!

[Figoulu]

Thanks for your detailed answer
I was much more thinking about removing the engine for the time being rather than re installing it. For that phase of putting back everything together, I will use large and solid straps because I will receive a complete reassembled engine with no intend to remove the head.

So I can validate thru your help, that using head bolt is a way to lift the engine, after head has been removed.

I thought that the bolt would better be "thighter" if much more screwed and more spaced to my personal feeling
As it is pictured 100% of the weight is concentrated on only a very small area as I would prefer to dispatch the mechanical effort on more spaced areas for better balance of the weight... This is my feeling again, against no any other scientific calculation