Literally, removing the cylinder head

[rwmastel]

I've got all the bolts out and parts off.  How to actually dislodge the cylinder head from the block after quite possibly 58 years.  I know it's soft aluminum, so I don't want to hammer it to knock it loose.  Suggestions?

[Cees Klumper]

Look for a place to put a pry bar to gently pursuade it off. Like a notch on the head with a corresponding 'footing' on the block or other strong place. If that seems unavailable, I would not hesitate to tap the head with a rubber mallet or other 'soft' deadblow hammer.

[rwmastel]

Can a manifold stud, with a rag wrapped around, be used to pry?

I do have a sand filled rubber hammer, so I'll try that first.

[stickandrudderman]

Be sure that you've removed the allen bolt inside the chain tunnel.

[rwmastel]

Yeah, one by the chain tensioner and one on the other side.

[ja17]

Four small 6mm allen head screws, two inside the chain gallery and two outside the chain gallery (near distributor and tach drive).

[rwmastel]

I'll make a video of my status.

Here!  That was quick.
https://youtube.com/shorts/2dUmE0HzwGU?si=DFx9EQ2-RDz4mKQQ

It's 25F in the garage and 9F outside at 4:30pm.  Not going to do anymore work (smacking cylinder head with rubber hammer) until Saturday when it's finally above freezing outside.  Buurrrrr!

[Vander]

Looks like you got all of the bolts. Like Cees said, use a dead blow hammer and also a pry bar on the exhaust manifold studs.

[rwmastel]

Saturday arrived, it's 34F outside.  I used a tiny pry bar between a couple protrusions on the head and water pump.  It took very little force to get the head lifting.  Made a sound of very sticky stuff pulling apart, like a sucking sound.  It's on the bench now.  I couldn't order any piston parts until I had a number off the top of a cylinder, to verify if they are original size or over size from a rebuild.  Got a pretty clear pic off #2 piston.

[mdsalemi]

So glad you got it off. Nothing more frustrating than something that won't "give".

Remember from your science days, the three forces: tension (pulling); compression (pushing) and shear (twisting). Even some weak adhesives and things that are stuck for one reason or another don't respond well to tension/pulling--particularly if there is any kid of sealant (and it's cold). Sometimes heat might help things, so a heat gun (for goodness sake NOT your wife's hairdryer!) can sometimes make a difference.

We all need a lot of different tools and tricks in our toolbox and knowledge set.

Many years ago, we had the engine out of our '66 Austin Cooper, and we were trying to remove the flywheel. We followed all the quaint instructions in the British instruction manual, and it wouldn't budge. Not wanting to damage it we put it in the back of a van and hauled it up to a mechanic well versed in these cars. He tried a few of the same things we did, and nothing. Finally he gets a mini sledge, gives it one good RAP with that, and the flywheel literally went flying off. Sometimes shock works too. No damage to the flywheel.

Looking at those pictures, that's quite a bit of carbon buildup on the tops of those pistons! Hopefully you won't need too much in the way of parts. Maybe just piston rings.

[rwmastel]

Looking at those pictures, that's quite a bit of carbon buildup on the tops of those pistons!

Yes, #2 is pretty rough looking.  Probably had the worst compression?  I'll take better pics of each one.  I assume there's no point in trying to clean the tops now, since they'll be coming out.  I'll also share pics of cylinder walls.

[rwmastel]

The chain had dropped inside and is preventing hand rotating the engine, so I can't get pics of all cylinder walls, but here's some.  Any obvious problems?  Engine last ran in 2009!

[rwmastel]

Found the problem with #4 exhaust valve!  This is what started this whole effort.

[rwmastel]

Here are the rest.

[Cees Klumper]

Wow. A whole piece of the valve face missing! Cylinder walls look ok to me, from the pictures, although not much cross-hatching remaining. Maybe just replace that one valve and button it all back up?

[rwmastel]

Cees,

Compression (based on my novice testing ability) 20 years ago ranged from 120 - 140, so I'm planning on a full "long block" rebuild.  I want to work on it once and enjoy it for many years.

[mdsalemi]

...a full "long block" rebuild.  I want to work on it once...

Rodd, a noble quest! And, not for the faint of heart.

You might be reminded of the standards set by Metric Motors (who would do what you want to do in a matter of weeks, but for more than you probably want to invest). Here they are:

We understand that there are no shortcuts to achieving excellence in the remanufacturing of an engine built to the standards of Mercedes-Benz. From classic applications such as 190SL thru newer generation E350 we combine OEM parts with our stringent factory specifications to satisfy the expectations of the Mercedes-Benz enthusiast.

ENGINES (AKA: “LONGBLOCKS”)

Every remanufactured engine we supply includes the following:

NEW PARTS:

   PISTONS AND RINGS
   ROD & MAIN BEARINGS
   ROD BUSHINGS
   OIL PUMP
   TIMING CHAIN
   CHAIN GUIDES
   ROD BUSHINGS
   CRANK SEALS
   INTAKE VALVES
   EXHAUST VALVES
   VALVE GUIDES
   VALVE SPRINGS
   ROCKER ARMS / LIFTERS
   CAMSHAFT NEW OR REGROUND
   CHAIN TENSIONER
   HEAD BOLTS
   WATER PUMP (V8 APPLICATIONS ONLY)
   COMPLETE GASKET SET (ELRING / O.E.)

REPLACE AS NEEDED OR NEW:
TIMING GEARS, FLYWHEEL RING GEAR, MISC. STUDS & HDWR…

MACHINED TO EXACT FACTORY SPECS:

BLOCK:
   BORE & HONE CYLINDERS
   SURFACE BLOCK DECK
   ALIGN HONE IF NECESSARY
   CONNECTING RODS REBUILT
   GRIND CRANKSHAFT
   SURFACE FLYWHEEL
   BALANCE CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

CYLINDER HEAD:
   SURFACE
   PRESSURE TEST
   INSTALL NEW VALVE GUIDES / HONE TO SPEC
   CUT SEATS / LAP VALVES

THOROUGH INSPECTION CLEANING AND DETAILING:
FINISH PAINT BLOCK AND OIL PAN TO FACTORY COLORS
PLATED HARDWARE WHERE APPLICABLE
TAP AND REPAIR ALL THREADS
METICULOUS ASSEMBLY
_____________

You have a long shopping list if these standards are what you would like to achieve. May I suggest you keep a running thread for all of us wanting to see the progress, illustrated.