Control Valve/ Heat sensor

[arnomollekens]

Hello guys,

This is my first post so please be nice
I have a w113 from '66 in the shop and am under the impression that the cold start control valve/heat sensor on the injection pump doesnt function the way it should.
RPM's in idle don't change when hot or cold, while idling the air fuel ratio is lambda 1. when the rpm's rise it immeadetly leans out.
i've removed the heat sensor and put in a glass of hot water and nothing much happens beside a few bubbles of air leaving.
 I've found the part online for over 1000 euro with part number A0012036175 ( a 'long' version ). I've found another one as well for +- 150 euro but it's the 'short' version'.
Does anyone know if the smaller part fits in the original location or can i make it fit ? i dont want to buy and replace the orignal one for over 1000 euro's if the problem stays afterwards...
also i've learned about the adjustments screw which clicks on the injection pump but that doesn't seem to connect, change anything or even click..
Any tips regarding this subject would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance,

[Peter van Es]

Hello Arno,

This is exactly why you should become a full member:

• https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Engine/ColdStartValve
• https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Restricted/Engine-starting-aid-tour

The best $30 you'll ever spend...

Peter

[Pawel66]

The symptoms you are describing require more wholistic approach to fix. you would need to take a look at
- Linkage Tour
- Starting Aid Tour
- Cold Start valve
- how to check FIP thermostat

It is really best to become a Member and have it all at fingertips.

[ctaylor738]

The easiest way to test the WRD aka the Won't Run Device is to remove the little air filter and start the engine from cold.  See if there is suction at its opening that gradually diminishes as the engine warms up.  At engine temp of 160 F or so, there should be no or almost no suction felt.  If the behavior is like this, the thermostat and air slide are working. 

WRT to the idle mixture screw, you may not be engaging the adjuster when you push the thumbscrew in.  This can happen if someone tried to adjust the mixture with the engine running.  In this case the adjuster will go to full rich (all the way in) and may be beyond the reach of the thumbscrew.  Another less-common problem is that the spring clip that holds the adjusters in place and provides the "click" to the adjustment is missing or out of place.  Remove the plate on the back of the pump to investigate.  Have a tray under the engine to catch oil.

Welcome to the Forum, and good luck with this problem.

CT

[rwmastel]

Hello Arno,

This is exactly why you should become a full member:

• https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Engine/ColdStartValve
• https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Restricted/Engine-starting-aid-tour

The best $30 you'll ever spend...

Peter

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Engine/WarmRunningDevice

[kampala]

Arno,

Send me a PM, I know someone who has a new old stock of that early version part for a lot less money.   About us$ 400 plus shipping. 

Or - if anyone else needs one and I don’t hear from Arno —.

[arnomollekens]

Thanks a lot !
if the adjuster has gone all the way in, is there a way to get it back out / can it be fixed or is it then beyond use ?
Thanks in advance !