Author Topic: Cylinder Head rebuild  (Read 2664 times)

saygold

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Cylinder Head rebuild
« on: August 14, 2005, 13:42:03 »
I just received my rebuilt cylinder head back from the machine shop (who replaced all of the valve guides, all of the inner valve springs and 3 on the outer springs and all intake valves, etc,).  

What is the best sealant for the cylinder head gasket, or is it not used?  The Haynes book does not cover it.  I vaguely remember in a previous comment, that sealants should not be used for the cylinder rebuild, but I cannot find it again.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ken
1966 230SL (white w/blue top, euro)

enochbell

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Re: Cylinder Head rebuild
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2005, 14:00:46 »
No sealant, just a new gasket.  And be sure to read prior posts on torque values, sequence and intervals.  The most useful advice I got was to never retorque a CH bolt without first loosening it.  And, of course, loosen and then torque them one at a time.

Greg

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

saygold

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Re: Cylinder Head rebuild
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2005, 14:47:18 »
Thanks!

Ken
66 230SL (euro)

ja17

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  • USA, OH, Blacklick
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Re: Cylinder Head rebuild
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2005, 05:27:56 »
Hello,
Mercedes suggest no sealant is needed. In later years Mercedes added sealant strips to their "new improved" head gaskets. This leads me to believe that improvement was needed.

 I always spray both sides of the head gasket with the copper gasket adhesive (Permatex). However once you place the head you are committed, no removal for one last check or you will tear the gasket.



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback