Author Topic: Dry winter storage  (Read 4859 times)

mille

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Dry winter storage
« on: September 11, 2005, 02:54:53 »
Like it or not, we are now approaching autumn and many of us have to face it: The Pagoda have to sleep nicely until next spring. I'm therefore considering to buy an air tight tent or bag and install some moisture absorbing device inside. We already have an electric dehumifyer, but it does not work very well near the freezing point. I have seen some stainless steel canisters filled with moisture absorbing stuff, which can be recharged in an ordinary owen and then reused.

Have any of you experience with such tents/bags and with above mentioned canister dehumifying systems? And do you know where to buy it - on ebay or elsewhere? New or second hand. Or do you have a better idea?

Your thoughts and ideas are much appreciated.

Finn

MB 230 SL 1964 Euro 4 speed silver metallic

mdsalemi

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Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2005, 07:56:34 »
Finn,

My own opinion is that you might be wasting your time and money.

At temperatures around the freezing mark, air holds very little moisture which is why your dehumidifier doesn't work that well.  So don't worry about moisture.

If you "tent" your car, you will just be trapping ambient air and moisture in place.  I don't think that's a good thing to do.

Silica Gel is a desiccant that is used in the canisters you talk about.  In the states here, in bulk it is used in compressed air drying systems, and it costs about USD $50 for a kilo or two, which is a good amount.  Problem is it works so well you'd probably spend all winter drying it out in your oven.

Get a good car cover, cover the car up in your garage, and don't worry about it.  When you have some dry days, regardless of temperature, take the car out for a good drive, then put it back.

I put my car down for the winter in November, and take it out around April.  It is not stored nearby, but when we have some dry days with no snow--and we do have some in the winter as I know you do as well--I'll take it out for a drive.  This is maybe once or twice in that time period.

I think the worst thing you can do is to start it for a while and NOT drive it.

If you are really concerned, find some indoor, heated storage.  It is very easy to find here, as long as you are willing to pay about $150-$200 per month.  I imagine in other places it will cost a bit more.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

enochbell

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2005, 10:09:02 »
Finn,

You raise an interesting issue.  My question is: do you really want to store your sl in an extremely low humidity environment?  Might sound counterintuitive, we would all like to have started with a car that lived in a garage in Palm Springs, but now that you have (I assume) gone to the trouble of replacing all the seals, leather, rubber busings, horsehair...doesn't that stuff want a little moisture in the air to keep these organic materials from premature deterioration?  I would be interested in other's thoughts, but I figure "normal" humididty of 40% or so is just fine for the car, maybe even beneficial.  

As long as you can protect the paint and such from freeze cycles, (and avoid the damage from "ridin' hard and puttin' up wet") I think a good quality, breathable cover and meticulous attention to cleaning both the paint and the cover will be the best prescription.

Just my 2 cents, have a nice Winter.

Greg

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

Chad

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2005, 21:34:25 »
I tried to make a 49 year old Alfa bagged up air tight on winter...
It was the worst thing I could have done to the car.  I thought it was rust free (mostly) in the fall, but when I returned north in the spring and unbagged it the rust was shocking.  

Air tight is bad I think.  Not driving the car at least a few times over the winter or even checking on it thoroughly, is equally bad.
I am not sure the dessicants are useful if your winters get really cold.  Maybe if you are on the coast or great lakes this is different??

-CD-
1967 230SL, 113.042 10
1983 300TDT, 123.193

rob walker

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2005, 03:01:34 »
Interesting discussion as my car will also have to sit for several months whilst I am in Asia over the winter.
I have just invested in a CARCOON.
These have had great reviews in Classic Car Magazine they use them regularly.
Also when I was looking at E-Types (sorry guys but I did come to my senses) the large dealer had several in Carcoons and they swore by them.
You can go on line and view the products, they give a lot of detial about why their product works and how it works and they would deliver to Europe.


Rob Walker

1968 280SL papyrus white/green leather
2004 230 SLK silver

graphic66

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2005, 05:02:26 »
You can also place an open bag of regular charcoal briqettes in your car. They are a dessicant and your car will not smell like it's been stored.

knirk

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2005, 07:58:03 »
I have used Carcoon the last two winters, and I am quite happy with it. I have two hygrometers, one inside the tent and one outside two compare the readings. Usually the difference is less than 10%, and with humidity around 80% for most of the winter that is not a lot. Last winter I put in a heater set to +10 deg. C and also an electric dehumifyer with a water hose to drain outside of the tent. With this set-up I could get about a 25% difference.

Per G. Birkeland
69 280 sl aut 834
Norway
« Last Edit: September 12, 2005, 07:59:23 by knirk »

Mike Webster

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2005, 10:40:10 »
Finn,

Try these two sites:
http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/storage.html for tips on storage. I also plan on using tire cradels, found on  www.tirecradel.com, to prevent tire flat spots.

Good Luck!!

Mike Webster
1966 230sl DB180 silver/red

mille

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2005, 00:37:35 »
Thanks for all your advise and views. Our winter here is very humid, on bad winter days humidity hoovers around 80-90%. We are living 300 m from the coast and our regular MB car share a double garage with the Pagoda, which brings in a lot of moisture/salty air. I'm seconded to Sri Lanka for work purpose during the winter (not the worst place to spend an otherwise dark and cold winter  8) )and will not have access to the car during this period.

Cheers

Finn

MB 230 SL 1964 Euro 4 speed silver metallic


n/a

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2005, 01:51:28 »
It's strange how everyone is talking about storing their cars for the winter, where I'm just getting ready to enjoy 7 months of topless driving in Dubai  8)
Mo
'69 280 SL Silver/Black

rob walker

  • Guest
Re: Dry winter storage
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2005, 08:08:12 »
Mo, the guys at DPA bought our company a few months back, so I should be spending some time in Dubai with various business trips over the next few months, so would be great to meet and see your car.
Will let you know when I am due there.
Rob

Rob Walker

1968 280SL papyrus white/green leather
2004 230 SLK silver