Author Topic: rebuild front calipers  (Read 24990 times)

merrill

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rebuild front calipers
« on: September 27, 2005, 11:16:03 »
I am about to start working on the brakes for my 66 230.
I have new hoses and rear piston.  should I rebuild the front calipers?
this car has sat for about 10 years and only driven maybe once a month.  
I can check the caliper action when I R/R the hoses, however, if there is a kit available and the job not too hard maybe I should just dive in?

thoughts?
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

George Davis

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2005, 12:19:02 »
Merrill,

caliper rebuild kits are available, and they aren't difficult to rebuild.  If you have done calipers before, the only real trick is to reinstall the pistons in the correct orientation.  Part of the piston lip is cut away and has to be oriented so the part that stands highest fits through a slot in the dust/heat shields.  Assuming they are correct to begin with, doing one side at a time allows you line up the one you just did with the one still in the caliper, or you can make a little tool shown in the BBB to line them up.

If you haven't rebuilt calipers before, there are some things to know, and a good description of this work is mandatory reading before you take the plunge.  There is at least one good way to hurt yourself, too, so knowing what you're doing is more than helpful.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

norton

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2005, 15:01:24 »
If you don't want to do them your self here's a place that will do them for you. http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

n/a

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2005, 21:49:39 »
Merrill, Norton

If you use White Post, I hope your experience is better than mine.  The people at White post are very prompt in answering the phone, have some very slick advertising fliers and make good sounding promises.  They are also very explicit about how you should pack the parts for shipment to them.

I sent a brake booster and a master cylinder to White Post to be rebuilt.  When the parts did not come back to me in the promised time, I called and was informed they needed to order parts from Germany to complete the job.  I could understand because a 250 SL is not as common as some of the cars they work on.  Anyway when the parts did arrive the box was broken open with part of the booster sticking out.  The packaging/insulation was a couple sheets of newspaper.  It apparently was not sufficient to protect the parts.  Much of the newspaper was sticking to the booster, apparently because the paint was not dry when the parts were packed for shipment.   The worst part however was the booster which was damaged, apparently from the tools they used to dismantle the booster.  I spent the better part of 2 days straightening and painting the booster.  In addition the kit they used to assemble the reservoir to the master cylinder was not the right one.  I ended up ordering the right kit from Ray Paul, properly cleaning the plastic reservoir and assembling the reservoir and master cylinder.

I documented the condition of the parts and sent copies of the photos to White Post.  They chose to  ignore the complaint.  

Maybe your experience would be better than mine, but I would be reluctant to use White Post again.  

On a more pleasant note,  I recently ordered a set of mats from cocomat.  I was very pleased with the response I received.  The mats came as promised and looked good, although I thought the fit could have been better in a couple of places.  When I contacted cocomat, I was told to send them back and send a pattern of what I would like to have.  I shipped the mats back along with a pattern of the way I though the mats should fit.  In about two weeks, I received a new set of mats that fit and looked much better.  These people will receive more of my business when I need mats for another car.

I guess some people have learned you can shear a sheep once a year but you can only skin him once. Others are still struggling with the concept.  

Any good luck on whatever you choose to do.

Iverson

norton

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2005, 04:02:34 »
White Post did some Sunbeam stuff for me years ago and did a good job, but sounds like things have changed. Anyone out there know of another place to get Mercedes calipars rebuilt :?:   Coco mats are cool 8)

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

German Dude

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2005, 04:29:18 »
You want to check what kind of calipers you have. If you have ATE, the job will be cheap. If you have the Girling calipers, things look different. The repair kit (rubber parts) will cost you about 60 $ (as compared to the 25$ for ATE. If the pistons are shot (Girling calipers have 3 each), the Girling replacements will be extremely hard to get and extremely costly. Costly to the point where I swapped mine for brand new ATE ones and got away cheaper. If you have ATE calipers, new pistons shouldn't be too expensive.

Check the calipers and find out what needs to be done. Then check SLS and do the math!

Good luck,

Juergen
64 230SL #2933, 4sp, signal red, white hard top
93 Citroen XM station wagon

mdsalemi

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #6 on: September 28, 2005, 05:19:29 »
Merrill,

Michigan is not known to be a hotbed of foreign cars, however we do have one "chain" of local foreign parts stores, called S&G Auto.  They are Bosch dealers, Beck/Arnley Worldparts, etc.  Several years ago during my restoration I asked if they could rebuild my brake calibers, frozen and having sat for 13 years.  They did all 4 ATE's for the meagerly sum of $45 each.

They went in looking like junkyard scrap, and came back looking like they were brand new out of the box.  The finish alone was worth the price to me.

Check around in your neck of the woods and see if your local foreign auto parts places will do a rebuild.

Note on White Post: (N.B. for those that don't know, White Post is a firm that re-constructs brake calipers by lining the cylinder bores with stainless steel; they advertise in The Star regularly) while I have no direct experience with them, my restorer suggested not modifiying and sleeving the brakes with SS as they do.  One of the arguments was that rusting cast iron was not the enemy of a brake system: lack of maintenance is.  Change your brake fluid annually, keep the hoses in good condition, and when things begin to go amiss, fix it.  Therefore, the stainless steel solves a problem that doesn't really exist with good maintenance.  I took his advice.  He had used White Post for someone else's car once and had some unspecified problems and suggested it was not necessary.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

norton

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2005, 18:11:26 »
White post will just rebuild your calipers, or install stainless sleeves if needed. The stainless sleeves are used for 2 reasons
#1 To repair a caliper or master cylinder that has a damaged / pitted bore that can not be cleaned up enough to be reused.
#2 As extra protection for the brakes against water in the brake system that we sometimes see on cars that are not used everyday, and stored for long periods of time.
   The Corvette guys, with there 4 piston calipers love stainless caliper sleeves, and there are thousends of 60's and 70's Vettes using them.

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

Vince Canepa

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2005, 06:22:05 »
I guess I will jump in here.  Two months ago I tried to rebuild my rear calipers.  Despite the fact that I flushed the brakes religiously over the past 30 years, one pistion was jammed and the other three would move a bit, but not come out.  The cause was rust that had formed under the "dust seals", at the base of the bore, on the "weather" side of the hydraulic piston seal (keep in mind that this is a car that has never seen a speck of road salt since new).  Flushing the brakes does nothing for this as it is outside the hydraulic system.  I ended up using White Post Restorations (their full name - they are a first class restoration shop).  They sleeve the calipers with brass, not stainless steel.  They make and install new pistons out of stainless steel.  I sent the calipers out on Tuesday and they came back on Friday (of course, I am in Virginia, same as White Post).  I asked them not to paint the calipers because I have the original semi-gloss paint and they complied.  The only thing I see that is different is the way they apply the dust seal.  It is held on by a circlip, as opposed to being "pressed" on like the originals.  They also fitted new bleed screws with an 8mm hex as opposed to the original 9mm, but I have several new ones anyway so I subbed mine.  So far, I have found their service satisfactory.  They also guarantee the job for life.

Just for info, White Post is the name of the "village" they are located in.  It is a crossroads really, with a "white post" in the middle of the intersection.  The village is in the Virginia horse country, beautiful rolling countryside.  There is a superb B & B there.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

mdsalemi

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #9 on: September 30, 2005, 09:27:00 »
This really isn't a thread about White Post, but more about brake rebuilding.

I'd offer that if Vince Canepa got 38 years out of his rear brake calipers before a rebuild, then that's a pretty darn good service life!  Looking at it another way, if one were to sleeve these in brass with new stainless pistons, in the year 2043 if they held up that long, they'd only be as good as what the factory supplied!  From that point you can measure the cost/benefit of resleeving.  Sometimes, "maintenance" might include tearing down what appears to be a working caliper for a rebuild anyway--just to prevent what caused Vince's calipers to finally stop working after all these years.  What if this had been done 10 years ago?  Could the caliper be salvaged without sleeving?

That being said, there are those among us who want a single permanent solution, and in that case do your homework on caliper rebuilds and sleeving.  When you see a rusty mess, or corrosion, brass and stainless steel are great words to catch us.  Good as they are, White Post is not the only firm in the business.  Go to Hemmings, for example, and you'll see a bevy of caliper rebuilders who offer sleeving services and related:

http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/classifieds.servicesearch/sort_by/state/type/brakes/

www.brakeplace.com

If you poke around the various old car and collector car forums, you'll see that there is a following that believes you don't need the sleeving and cylinder service IF the parts are still available for a conventional rebuild, and IF new or rebuilt calipers are still available as well.  At least for our ATE's this is still true.  I don't have the Girlings but I understand they are more expensive and harder to get the parts for.

Regarding Norton's comments about the Vette guys swearing by brake caliper lining and SS pistons, this isn't an adequate comparison to our ATE equipment.  There is an inherent design flaw in Corvette brakes from 1965 to 1982 that our brakes don't have. Of course an entire cottage industry sprang up around this problem, mostly limited to fixed-caliper Delco brakes for Corvettes only.  You can read about the problem here if you are interested:

http://www.idavette.net/hib/BBfHInet12.htm

On another note, my brake caliper rebuilds are now 5 years old!  And, I notice now, I'm getting a pulling to one side.  Might be time for another teardown!


Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

Vince Canepa

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #10 on: September 30, 2005, 11:19:59 »
38 years is good service, no doubt.  But, to the point of the original post in which a member may be opening up an original set of 30+ year old calipers, once you find a stuck piston, or find even minor corrosion on the piston or bore, you are forced into a decision (after all, you cannot safely rebuild a caliper with defective parts).  You can use a rebuild/upgrade method (White Post, others, etc) or you can buy stock rebuilt calipers from the dealer/parts source.  In my case it was far cheaper to go with a brass/stainless/rebuild, so why not?  Chances are that will be the same for anyone, with any type of car, facing that decision.

As I found, maintaining the hydraulics isn't a pancea.  Stripping the calipers every ten years or so might be one (likely effective) approach.  However, to properly rebuild the calipers, you need to have a few special tools, which I made in the past and still have.  It really requires a tool to properly seat the dust shields, for example.  With the option I chose, the stainless piston should not rust in the area that I found trouble with, so that should negate any need to strip down the caliper every ten years or so.  So, my bottom line recommendation for anyone thinking about rebuilding your calipers is:  expect the worst and know what your options are.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

J. Huber

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #11 on: September 30, 2005, 11:29:29 »
Is it not possible to buy new calipers from MBZ or our trusty suppliers? I recall seeing them.

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

norton

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #12 on: September 30, 2005, 12:06:18 »
The later model ATE's are still available for $200 to $325 each, I don't know if the Girlings  are still available, but I remember reading the the ATE's can be used in place of them, maybe Joe, the Doc or some one can jump in on this.
   Michael I read the info at the link you posted and I don't get what you mean. "There is an inherent design flaw in Corvette brakes from 1965 to 1982 that our brakes don't have"

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe
« Last Edit: September 30, 2005, 12:09:25 by norton »

Vince Canepa

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2005, 12:21:43 »
The calipers sold by the dealers are rebuilts.  Depending on your relationship with the dealer they are in the range Norton mentions.  for comparison, White Post charged me $160 each.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

norton

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2005, 12:25:13 »
Did some checking and some dealers offer rebuilt ATE's for about $65.00 with exchange.

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

mdsalemi

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #15 on: September 30, 2005, 14:19:12 »
To answer several things in one post.

Norton, I think $65 for a rebuilt ATE is pretty darn good, wouldn't you say?  Was it a local dealer here in Michigan or mail order?  I'd like to "bookmark" it for future reference...

I recall the new ATE's being in the $200+ range several years ago, so that's probably a correct, new price.  I would assume, perhaps incorrectly, if that your caliper is not rebuildable, the rebuilder won't do it.  I believe that's what S&G told me.

Vince, yes sleeving is another way to go, another path to take on the way to rebuilding calipers.  I hope that everyone realizes that it isn't limited to White Post; check out the other vendors as well.

As for the Corvette thing, without repeating the entire article here, I'll give you the gist--In a nutshell, the Corvette brake was a fixed caliper design, the rest of the world uses floating calipers.  Caliper movement beyond a small amount from external, non-braking forces (vibration, etc.) cause a violation of the seals.  Dirt and air get in and you're brakes have had it. There was a seal issue, too, with the secondary seal, and GM eventually recommended using RTV on the secondary seal!  We don't have that problem because we don't have fixed caliper brakes, and neither do most cars other then racing cars.  Corvette eventually went with floating calipers like the rest of the non-racing world.  The ATE brakes don't have a seal issue; and they don't suffer these problems that Corvettes have.  They are pretty darn good.

Hope that helps.  It is a good article.  We're not the only collector car owners who struggle with all kinds of issues...


Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

norton

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #16 on: September 30, 2005, 15:46:34 »

mdsalemi

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #17 on: September 30, 2005, 18:00:11 »
quote:
Originally posted by norton

Rebuilt AET calipers http://www.mercedesnewparts.com/epcvsoapimc.epc?cookieID=1MK0UR1OV1MK1211RV&drillid=8&subcatid=801048@@Front+Wheel+Hydraulics&clientid=mercedesnewparts

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe



Great Site!  I indeed bookmarked it. somehow they never popped up in all my web searches, they need to do something about that! They seem to have a bit more, and diverse parts then the typical MB parts website.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

rwmastel

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #18 on: October 05, 2005, 19:06:59 »
quote:
Originally posted by mdsalemi

We don't have that problem because we don't have fixed caliper brakes, and neither do most cars other then racing cars.

We don't???  Maybe I don't understand the term.  My Girling (directly replaceable by ATE) calipers are bolted to the wheel hub.  How are they not "fixed"?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

Did you search the forum before asking?
2017 C43 AMG
2006 Wrangler Rubicon
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norton

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #19 on: October 06, 2005, 04:15:59 »
Hi Rodd The Brake calipers are not allowed to rotate(fixed) but are allowed to float side to side.

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

rwmastel

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #20 on: October 06, 2005, 19:01:50 »
quote:
Originally posted by norton

Hi Rodd The Brake calipers are not allowed to rotate(fixed) but are allowed to float side to side.

Mike,
I don't see how they could float side to side as they are bolted right to the hub.  My understanding of floating calipers is that one side has a cylinder the pushes the brake pad against the disc and the other side has a fixed brake pad that gets pulled against the disc by the compressing action of the one moving pad, which is actually moving the whole caliper.  Am I way off?   :?:

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

Did you search the forum before asking?
2017 C43 AMG
2006 Wrangler Rubicon
1966 230SL auto "Italian"

norton

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #21 on: October 07, 2005, 04:50:35 »
Right you are Rodd, They are fixed, I assumed from Michael's post that they where floating, but after taking a wheel off the car and looking at them, they are a twin piston, fixed caliper. That puts the 113 in the same boat as the Corvette (- 2 pistons) I think that the corvette's real brake problems are not due to a design flaw, but where due to how the cars where used, as weekend and sunny day toys with long storage in between, allowing the condensation in the brake system to eat at the pistons surface, and cause seal failure.

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

mdsalemi

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #22 on: October 07, 2005, 05:46:52 »
Right you both are.  The Corvette brake problems are legendary, and I simply don't think the ATE's suffer from the same thing.  The arguments for the Corvette include the fixed design, but I believe it has more to do with the seals...but anyway that problem was solved and we simply don't have it.  Nobody has said anything bad about our brakes.

FYI, Rodd:

There are three varieties of disc brake calipers: fixed calipers, floating calipers, and sliding calipers. A fixed caliper has a piston, or pistons, on each side of the rotor. The caliper is solidly bolted to the steering knuckle or other caliper mount. Pistons move equally from each side of the rotor to apply pressure directly on both sides of the rotor. Most fixed calipers are assembled from two castings that are bolted together. Passages within the two halves allow brake fluid to flow to pistons on both sides. This style of caliper often offers the best braking performance, but is also a more expensive option due to the greater complexity and higher parts count.

In contrast, a floating caliper has a single large piston (or two smaller pistons in some cases) located on the inboard side of the caliper. Since force must be applied equally to both sides of the rotor, the floating caliper must able to actuate a brake pad on both the inner and outer rotor surface. The caliper is bolted to the mount with special pins, and the caliper slides back and forth on sleeves or bushings. The inboard pad sits directly on the piston; the outboard pad sits within the caliper frame. When the brakes are applied, the piston moves outward, pushing the inboard pad into the rotor. Simultaneously, the force exerted backwards from the piston onto the caliper frame causes the frame to move inboard, bringing the outboard pad into contact with the rotor. In this way, both pads press on the rotor. One advantage of a floating caliper is that the moving caliper design can better tolerate the movement of a warped rotor than a fixed caliper.

A sliding caliper operates in much the same way as a floating caliper. Instead of using a set of pins, a sliding caliper rides in a set of machined guides. The guides allow for the lateral movement of the caliper.

Disc calipers are inherently self-adjusting by design. Each piston is built to fit with close tolerance to its bore. An O-ring seal and dust boot are also fitted to each piston. The action of the O-ring is such that it allows the piston to slide through it as the pads wear so that the brake pedal remains firm throughout the life of the pads. However, the O-ring also provides a slight retraction movement to keep the pads pulled just off the surface of the rotor. In this way, the seal is constantly keeping the caliper adjusted as the pads wear.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

mdsalemi

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #23 on: October 07, 2005, 15:48:10 »
Norton,

Poor Merrill.

First, if you are going to insult me, do if off line.  If you don't like me, or my car, or how I took it from then to now, either tell me off line, share it here, or hold your peace.  Ditto if you don't appreciate my contributions to the forum(s), or the knowledge I've gained on this car.  You've already insulted John Olsen in previous posts which was unprofessional and uncalled for.  Your little digs here are unwelcome, and frankly, childish.  We all understand that you only have respect for those with grease under their fingernails. But that shows a very narrow view of the world. I am not the only one in our group to have utilized the services of professionals in achieving our goals in the maintenance, running and restoration of our cars.  To denigrate those who pay for professional service while elevating those that do it themselves is insulting to all of us.  You also seem to be pre-occupied with finding fault in my posts.  That's not the purpose of our forum.

That being said:

This thread started about rebuilding brake calipers, and part of that digressed into sleeving our brake calipers.  The firm most often associated with brake sleeving for Mercedes is White Post Restorations, mainly due to their regular advertising in The Star. If one were to limit their knowledge of brakes to Mercedes only, one would think that White Post is the only firm offering this service.  Not so.  There are others, as I previously pointed out.  That's knowledge that I share.  Limiting yourself to one vendor can be a mistake.  White Post does not have a spotless record, as others have indicated.  My restorer wouldn't use them.

Now, we know that getting a rebuilt ATE is pretty inexpensive.  I shared how I got that done.  You shared a new vendor.  We can all agree that $65.00 is a reasonable price.  The question became, why would you sleeve a brake caliper?  This is a good question, and if you are new to this forum or car, and you have a seized old brake caliper in your hand, the ensuing dialog can be worthwhile.

Since I considered sleeving, but rejected it some years ago, the topic interested me.  I went out to the internet for different car clubs, forums and vendors and drew my conclusions from what I read.  You don't need to agree with them.  One of the topics that came up had to do with Corvette brakes.  That led to other forums where I discovered that many people share the opinion that there is an inherent problem with fixed caliper Corvette Brakes of 1965-1982.  That problem is what led the Corvette owners to use sleeving, and which is why you indicated that there are thousands of Vettes out there with sleeved calipers.  Am I wrong in concluding that the sleeving was done to correct a problem?  That's what I read over and over again regarding Corvette brakes.  To argue the point is senseless.  It's not my opinion, its a fact, so get over it for Pete's sake.

In continuing to research this, I came across many different opinions, and formed my own conclusions.  You don't have to agree.

1) Sleeving OUR ATE brakes is nearly 3 times the price of a rebuilt; at the time I had mine done, it was more then that.

2) Some suggest, and I agree, that sleeving is best done when you can't get rebuilt calipers.

3) The life of most of our brakes is more related to maintenance then anything else, so if you maintain your brakes properly you can get a very long life out of our calipers, as Vince showed us.  There is nothing inherently wrong with them.  Of course we have stuck and leaking calipers!  I had them from my 280SL that sat unused for 13 years!  That doesn't make the design flawed, and it doesn't suggest sleeving.

Norton, if you think old Corvette brakes are fine--great.  When you buy an old Vette, don't sleeve the brakes.  If you think there is something inherently wrong with our brakes, that's OK too.  Spend the money and sleeve them.

As for the information I posted that I didn't credit, sorry to have offended you.  I could have, perhaps should have, put a link there, but since Rodd asked the question it seemed to me to be good information that I simply extracted.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
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hands_aus

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Re: rebuild front calipers
« Reply #24 on: October 09, 2005, 20:22:47 »
I suggest the posts of this topic with personal attacks be removed.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
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