Winter Projects

[mdsalemi]

Here is what is on my list of winter projects--

1)  Wheels. Source a complete set, (I've got 2 so far) of the 6 x 14 aluminum wheels that Jim Villers turned us on to.  Once I get all 4, then they need to be cosmetically repaired, and finally, powder coated.

2)  Finish up the horn project.  Those who came to Joe's in July might have seen my "restored" horns.  All the parts were there but not completely assembled.  I need to assemble them all, and then document it for the anyone else to do.

3)  Seats.  I plan on taking the seats apart, repairing and or replacing or otherwise improving the spring steel "basket"; adding additional support to provide a firmer feel, and then putting it all together, and documenting it of course.  I need to make some calls and call in some favors here; Lear Corporation and Johnson Controls, two of the largest automotive seat manufacturers are in my neighborhood.  Certainly they have prototype labs, and I just have to have some help!

What's on your list?

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[TR]

Mike -- I think it’s going to be a long winter in Idaho…

Per your request, here’s some of the things currently on our list:

-   The new engine from Metric is smoking pretty badly when I decelerate.  We’ll identify and fix that.  Have already spoken with Mike Elias at Metric…great guy!
-   Have a rebuild done on the fuel injection pump…it’s never been touched before.
-   Clean up the engine compartment…it would not win any sort of beauty contest now (not that I’ll ever enter a contest…I’m just persnickety about such things).
-   Continue on with engine cooling improvement efforts / experiments.  I’m serious about taking the car to Death Valley in 120+ temp and expecting it to hold temp. during prolonged periods of idle with the A/C blowing ice cubes.  (I know, I know…it’s supposed to be impossible).
-   Will probably switch to a 3.27 rear-end.  (have another trick up our sleeve, which we may also try just for fun).
-   Change out existing high-volume Spal blower in Frigiking A/C to an even higher volume unit.
-   Replace all brake lines with SS tubing.
-   Go to progressive rate springs … maybe different shocks … perhaps a slightly larger anti-sway bar.  (Tom S, thank you very much for the inspiration!!)
-   Probably go to bigger alum. wheels… try different tires for optimal configuration of performance & comfort (while still maintaining the orig. look of painted wheel covers and white wall tires).
-   Check out the possibility of adding a turbo… (probably a longer-term activity though)
-   Have the hood repainted.  (too many dings from all the recent work).
-   Existing paint is good, but has micro-scratches…probably caused by me using the California Car Duster.  Have a good polish job done to remove those irritating “spider webs”.
-   Bumpers, grill pieces, etc. all need re-chroming…will probably have this done.
-   Maybe try a set of European headlights.
-   Have new custom soft top made … will use the CLK 500 cabriolet as the inspirational model for this activity.
-   Have soft luggage pieces made out of matching leather to fit newly modified trunk.



Tom in Boise
'71 280SL 4-spd, signal red w/lt. tan interior, restored/enhanced

[TheEngineer]

I'm considering removing the oil pan from the engine. Then I would determine where the oil level is with the car at rest. Then I'd find a spot where there is a little bit of oil spray with the engine running. Not too much - just right. Then I'd drill a little hole so it leaks a little. I'm just not comfortable knowing that there is oil in the engine, but no oil leaks to show for it.

'69 280SL,Signal Red,007537,tired engineer, West-Seattle, WA

Oops! I spoke too soon: I found two drops of oil and some antifreeze on the garage floor!

[Cees Klumper]

- Maybe this will be the year for those new MB tex seat covers.
- The car could use a few new wheels (I suspect I have one or more slightly bent rims). Maybe I will go on that aluminum-wheel-quest.
- Replacing the timing chain and checking the cam timing.
- Fiddling with the engine tuning (ignition, air/fuel etc).
- Checking the 3-position solenoid operation (the activating microswitch is disconnected currently because otherwise the car does not shift properly).
- organizing and cleaning up the garage!

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[bpossel]

[:0]I am not going to do anymore suspension work!

I will do a tranny service and change the fluid and filter.  This will be the 1st time that I have done this...

Otherwise simply drive the car...  winters in Memphis are pretty nice. We can have one day of cold weather and the next warm and sunny...  

Bob

bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

[TheEngineer]

Cees: If your throttle position switch is disconnected, how does the 3-position solenoid know that you have taken your foot off the gas pedal? Normally, the closing of that switch makes the transmission shift up. Is it now just the vacuum that makes it shift? At one time, I recall, you thought that the microswitch at the firewall was part of the transmission control. But that switch, I discovered, engages the fuel shut-off solenoid on my injection pump. The switch on the outboard side of the throttle plate is the one which signals to the transmission that the throttle is closed. You also said that your transmission shifts very smooth from 2 to 3. Mine shifts smooth most of the time-after adjustments, but sometimes it is still harsh. (Only the 2-3 shift is harsh). I am comparing it to my Toyota. You also said, that your transmission shifts down under increasing load, like modern transmissions do (because of decreasing vacuum). Mine does not do that: I have to use "kick down" or use the shift lever. If your transmission shifts fine, and the 3-position solenoid is not working, maybe we should disconnect it?

[Cees Klumper]

Hi engineer:

"If your throttle position switch is disconnected, how does the 3-position solenoid know that you have taken your foot off the gas pedal? Normally, the closing of that switch makes the transmission shift up."

I think something is amiss with the wiring, that puts the 3-position switch in the second position at all times, not just when the car is put in gear. So it does not need the switch anymore for that actuation.

"Is it now just the vacuum that makes it shift? At one time, I recall, you thought that the microswitch at the firewall was part of the transmission control. But that switch, I discovered, engages the fuel shut-off solenoid on my injection pump. The switch on the outboard side of the throttle plate is the one which signals to the transmission that the throttle is closed."

I have no microswitch at the throttle plate, AND I also do not have a fuel cutoff solenoid on the FI pump. So the switch, when it was hooked up (until a garagist unhooked it years ago), did in fact control the 3-position solenoid

"You also said that your transmission shifts very smooth from 2 to 3. Mine shifts smooth most of the time-after adjustments, but sometimes it is still harsh. (Only the 2-3 shift is harsh). I am comparing it to my Toyota."

Yes the trans shifts smoothly 4 out of every 5 shifts I would say. But that seems to have more to do with vacuum settings (and maybe a properly functioning 3-position switch).

"You also said, that your transmission shifts down under increasing load, like modern transmissions do (because of decreasing vacuum). Mine does not do that: I have to use "kick down" or use the shift lever. If your transmission shifts fine, and the 3-position solenoid is not working, maybe we should disconnect it?"

I am 75% sure that my car used to downshift when I applied more throttle but before pressing it all the way to actuate the kick-down switch. However, Joe Alexander posted yesterday that our transmissions are not supposed to do that. And someone else reported that their car downshifts when more throttle is applied. At this point, I think I will only find out on my car through a lot of fiddling with wiring and settings.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[TheEngineer]

Hi Cees: That was a quick reply: Don't you go to bed at 10PM like us regular folks? I guess, the switch at the firewall can be used to signal the 3-way solenoid that the throttle is closed and then you don't need the switch on the throttle plate. Finding the correct wires may be difficult. My car has the R20y injection pump and, with it, comes the fuel shut-off solenoid. It works well. I have filed the contacts of the speed relay and have -temporarily- a test light connected to burn when the solenoid is energized. The book says that the shifting of the automatic is depending on speed and vacuum. It is not supposed to downshift when you drive up a hill and the engine has insufficient torque and drops in RPM, until your speed diminishes to the shift point. Long before that I shift down manually. Data are given at http://www.pagode.info/21.htm But I have driven one Pagoda that shifted smooth all the time: It may be that someone imstalled a different transmission. I looked for a model or s/n but couldn't find one. It was somewhat difficult because I couldn't jack up the car and the owner wasn't helpful. Mine is about like yours: It shifts nice four out of five times. I have to educate myself more on the transmission.

    This is the switch on my car which, when closed, energizes the fuel cut-off solenoid: (several other switches must also be closed)

[George Davis]

My plans involve overhauling the 4-speed gearbox, and replacing the alloy wheels with good old steel wheels and hubcaps, repainted but suitably used-looking to match rest of car...

Engineer,
I like your project, would like to suggest you maybe install a small valve to control the leakage rate.  My understanding of the conditions inside the crankcase is that it's a pretty thick rapidly swirling fog of oil droplets in there when the engine is running, so any hole you drill will probably leak quite a bit.  I guess you could start with a very small hole and work up, too, but a valve seems more elegant.




George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[J. Huber]

My list is surprisingly short this year. Oh believe me I could find some biggies to tackle (leaks here and there, paint & bodywork, etc) -- but just am not going to do it. Unlike most of yours, my car is nowhere near perfection. And since I am not a mechanic, the idea of tackling anything major means sending it out on a fishing expedition. Not going to until I have to.

Over time, I have done a lot to get it to a decent old driver -- and am happy to be there! So my list at the moment is:
Change the oil & filter
Quick Detail it often
Drive it whenever the sun is out!




James
63 230SL

[n/a]

My car has been running great since the electronic ignition conversion. It has been so much fun driving it that it is hard to put it up for a long project. Like James, mine is a decent driver and it's sole purpose is to provide me with driving enjoyment. One big project I have been contemplating is to repair the heater and A/C. No water is currently flowing through the heater coil (not connect) and not sure what is the condition of the coil. The A/C is not charged.

Is there a way to test the coil integrity through the inlet and outlet pipe opening without having actual water flowing through it?  Any suggestion would be welcome.

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

[A Dalton]

<<Is there a way to test the coil integrity through the inlet and outlet pipe opening without having actual water flowing through it? Any suggestion would be welcome.>>

 Here is am old trick I have used . This will test integrity for leaks ,but not flow..

 Cut a skinny bicycle tube in 1/2 .. clamp each end to the inlet/outlet.  Pump some air into the tube through the valve stem .. let it sit for a while .. watch for holding pressure. You do not need a gauge, just watch the tube size for deflation....

 You can also take some hair shampoo and warm H20 and whip it up with a paint brush . Now , with air still in the heater core , pop the inspection cap at the heater valve and paint the suds heavy down in the hole .. if it is the O ring that is leaking by , it will blow bubbles from the shampoo.  Many times heater cores are by-passed b/c they are incorrectly diagnosed as bad/leaking core , when the correct failure is just a .50 cent O ring at the valve...

 A little crude, but it works......................

[Tom230sl]

Write a large check...

due thanksgiving.

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[Douglas]

Tom,

Gorgeous car. I can't wait to see it finished. So what's your secret on the firewall insulation? Looks like it's new, but it appears to be the original pattern.

Do tell.

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #016220

[hauser]

Tom, very impressive!   I too would like to know about your firewall pad.

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

[n/a]

<<Here is am old trick I have used . This will test integrity for leaks ,but not flow..>>

Thank you for the tips. It looks simple enough that I am definitely going to give it a try. I would rather not have the pull the core if it is not leaking.

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

[Tom230sl]

quote:Originally posted by hauser

Tom, very impressive!   I too would like to know about your firewall pad.

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

OEM in a roll I've had for years. The rest will go on ebay.

[J. Huber]

Ok. After reading my earlier post a couple times -- as well as others, I realize it was a cop out... So I went to garage, pencil in hand. I now have a list of 15 things that I might do over the Holidays! Thanks a lot guys!

PS Nice photos Tom -- I can only dream to do something like that with mine...



James
63 230SL

[dldubois]

Have the car repainted.    The time involved is up to 3 months including removing current paint and taking care of the random dings.    I plan on driving the next couple of months.  (Great weather here in October and November).   I'm planning on beginning to remove the chrome, etc around 12/1 to get ready.

While dismantling to paint I'll also take the opportunity to pull the AC to get at my bypassed heater core and have addressed.   I figure this way I get to strip the dash at the same time.

.....Guess it'll be spring once I get to put it back together.


Dana DuBois

1969 280sl auto
blue (906)
Corinth, TX

[iceberg]

Hey Guys,
I must say that Tom's car went through a very impressive resto.  Good going Tom.  As for me, this winter I am having the same thing done to my car as Tom's.  Expect my car is going to Pakistan for a ground up.  The reasons for this are, cheap labour; lots of domestic help; fathers friend who owns a Car manufacturing plant; peanuts for rechroming; peanuts for other small things, (and when I say peanuts that means that to cut new keys and tumblers to match the ones already on my gas cap, will cost me at best USD $5-10)and my own leather business.  I am also planning to make fitted luggage for my car and maybe who knows if it works out then start a production line for all u guys.  Please wish me luck.  Also I would like to add here that despite the fact that I am taking my car to Pakistan, I know that I would have wanted nothing more, mechnically, than to have my entire engine rebuilt by Dr. Benz.  
Anyways guys please wish me luck and I will still be using this site to explain several things to guys over there.  Thanks in advance!

Regards,
H

[Kenneth Gear]

Tom, that restoration looks great. Can't wait to see the finished product -- who is doing the work for you?

Question - can you give any details on how the A/C unit restored?  That is on my "to-do" list but I'm not sure where to begin.  My unit is out of the car but cosmentically it looks like the your "before" picture.

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red

[JamesL]

Very little.

Saving some pennies for a hardtop refurb next summer,and new carpets/insulation in the spring

Small steps

[TheEngineer]

Tom230SL: I'm impressed! Who is it that does such restoration work?

[Vince Canepa]

This may seem bass-ackwards, but I think I will try to drive mine!  We don't get much snow and my car doesn't have A/C, so summers here in SE Virginia can be tough.  I have been working my tail off in my relatively cool garage since late June taking car of some long standing issues.  Now is the time to see how it all comes together.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[Tom230sl]

quote:Originally posted by Vince Canepa

This may seem bass-ackwards, but I think I will try to drive mine!  We don't get much snow and my car doesn't have A/C, so summers here in SE Virginia can be tough.  I have been working my tail off in my relatively cool garage since late June taking car of some long standing issues.  Now is the time to see how it all comes together.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

smart man!