windshield installation

[Markus]

 :evil:  Calling all windshield experts!  How does one install (correctly) the aluminium trim piece in the windshield seal so it does not produce gaps or a channel in the corners?  I sent the expert installer provided by the PPG window retailer away after he managed to gouge, scratch, and bend one of the new trim pieces.($140.00 mistake)  I have read the tech article, and the Haynes Manual says to install the trim after (nigh impossible by some accounts)the windshield is installed into the frame. Anyone know how they did it at the factory?

Mikapika's 280sl

[Mark in KS]

Ouch!  I replaced my windshield 2 years ago.  I had it professionally done.  Before I chose the installer, I asked around a lot and was guided to an installer that works on classic cars and specializes in glass replacement.  The first thing he said to me when I told him I had a 113 was to, "take out the wood".  Since he knew that nuance, I figured he was experienced.  Sure enough he was.  The glass is installed perfectly.  Yes, you have to install the trim rim last.  It's not too late for you to search out an experience installer.  It sounds like PPG gave you a bum reference.

[mrfatboy]

wow, i didn't give it that much thought.  I just replaced my glass 3 months ago due to a rock flying up and hitting it.  I just call my local All Star Glass.  They came to my house installed the new windshield for $200. It was perfect.  They did not remove the wood.  I did learn a neat rope trick with the gasket.

[hauser]

A buddy of mine went the PPG route and the installer cracked the NEW windshield.

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

[ja17]

Hello Markus,
I have always found it much easier to install the chrome trim around the windshield in  the rubber molding first and then install the glass, rubber and chrome all at one time.





Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[66andBlue]

quote:Originally posted by Mark in KS

....  It's not too late for you to search out an experience installer...

Mark,
I am facing the same task and was hoping that you can send me the name of your installer in the KC area.
Thanks!

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[Ben]

I agree with Joe !

Having fitted hundreds of windscreens, obviously not to 113's, I had to remove the screen on my car before it went for paint and since I needed a new screen I decided to practice with the old items !

I fitted the rubber to the glass, and taped it on, then the trim to the rubber, swarfega to the edges, some sealer to the car body, inserted wire into the correct groove and lifted the glass in !

You are better off with a helper who can tap the glass lightly as you pull the wire through from the inside. This is where the wood may get damaged, especially if it is in poor condition or is old, as mine was, but mine had been removed !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

[George Des]

I looked around for someone to do this during my restoration and finally read up enough on it that I decided to do it myself. Once I was able to figure out the seal--which slot goes where--the job was a matter of having my wife hold the entire set-up--windshield, seal with trim in place and cord inserted-in the opening. The rope trip did indeed work! I do not believe you will be able to insert the trim once the windshield is installed and everything I read up on this said to insert the trim prior to installing the windshield on the car. It was also recommended to soap up the seal with liquid soap to help the process. I tried this with an aftermarket seal at first and it did not work so I ended up buying and using an OEM seal--would recommend the same. If you do a search on Mercedes Windshields you may be able to find a good expalnation on installation on the MB Pontoon site. The installation is basically the same.

George Des

[Vince Canepa]

I have done several Mercedes windshields.  The trim goes in before the windshield is installed (and that is what the factory manuals say).  I would be surprised if you could get the trim installed once the windshield is in place.  The compression of the body flange against the glass closes off the groove for the trim making it nearly impossible to fit the trim.  The only time I have tried to fit the trim after a windshield was installed, it was impossible (that was on an early 50's Chevy truck, though, and the owner asked me to try to get the trim in after he had already installed the windshield).

One trick I use is to carefully correct the shape of the trim so it fits right before the windshield goes in.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[Ricardo]

Vince
It is "possible" to get the trim in, I did it on my 123 wagon's rear hatch, after installing the glass ....mind you it was all beat up and awful looking by the time I was finished   .....when all else fails ..read the manual

[waltklatt]

It is one of the few jobs that I abhor.  I install the rubber seal first onto the glass using duct tape to hold it on.  Then the anodised aluminum trim.  Then a bit of wd-40 on the rubber to slip it into the windshield frame.  Not before cleaning everything thoroughly of dirt and leftover rubber and sealant.  I use a thin bead of silicone sealant to insure the corners dont leak in the future.  And no wood or dashtop inside, and I use a homemade hook from a long thin shafted screwdriver to pull the rubber lip over the metal edge.  Then use the flat of my palm to gently seat the windshield in place.
I've broken many windshields by hitting in the wrong places.  Never hit on the edges or extreme center of the glass.  And dont hit too hard.
You can practice on a few cars at the local junkyards to get a feel for the strength of the glass.
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL-diesel
1963 230SL-gas

[Vince Canepa]

I have always use two cords, one wrapped 60-70% of the way around and the other opposite, in the groove for the body flange, just like in the manual. It works like a charm, especially if you wax the cords beforehand.  Have a helper apply light pressure over the area while pulling the cord.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[Markus]

  Thanks for the really sterling advice it all helped. Yesterday Will Samples and I installed windshields on both his 280sl and mine. The only extra bit of gouge (no pun intended) is to prepare the seal channel where the rope will be placed. You must first pry the lip out of the rubber receiving channel before fitting the rope into that channel. Also overlap the rope by about 1 foot on either side and begin at the base of the windshield in the center of the dash pulling evenly one end at a time. This allows gravity to do part of the work for you, and it centers the windshield in the apperature.  Soaping the entire inner window frame and outer seal area are critical to ease of fitment. Watch that the outer seal to frame rubber does not buckle underneath, your helper can pry that out with the round edge of an old credit card or the wedge of a dismantled wooden clothes pin, as the windshield is going into place.

Cheers!

[66andBlue]

Markus,
Did you take any pictures of these rope tricks that you could post here?

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[Markus]

Unhappily I have yet to purchase a digital camera, and neither Will or I thought to bring his. Sorry. Next project though.

[gugel]

A trick Gernold told me about helped in installing my windshield.  Install the bottom of the windshield first, then tilt out the top slightly and install the wood trim, then finish installing the top of the windshield.  The trim -- especially over the instrument binacle -- normally can't be installed after the windshield is fully in.

Chris Earnest

[Anfinn]

I would like to add my experience to this topic.

Rubber gasket:
I also ended up purchasing an original MB gasket after first having tried an aftermarket gasket bought from the US.
The aftermarket one seemed to be too long. I could not get the trim to fit all the way round.

Trim:
I fitted the trim before installing the windshield. The trim was surprisingly easy to bend (and damage), but it was still not 100% into the groove on the corners.

Installing:
I tried to do it myself with a helper, but without success. Plenty of silicone lubrication, and using a rope, but no deal.

The professionals had it installed within half-an-hour.

The main differences between my efforts and theirs was that they used a thicker rope. I had tried a waxed cord of abt. 1 mm dia. Theirs was more like 6mm dia. (1/4 in.). They also use a lot more force on the glass than I dared.

The installer suggested putting a sealer in the groove where the glass went. Since I already had the gasket fitted to the glass, I declined this. Has anyone found this necessary?

They put black sealer in the groove where cord went, and this was "topped up" after the glass was installed. I believe this is according to the BBB.
They also got the trim pushed in better on the corners, but there was a small gap (1 mm) on one corner which I filled with sealer.

The cost was NOK 1900 or about USD275 using todays exchange rate. This I thought was a fair price.