For what it's worth, my dad owned a '67 250SL in Europe from about '70 to '80 while he lived in Italy. He also owned a '62 or '63 190SL. Both of these he drove thru-out Europe at high autobahn level speeds. He told me several times that the 230SL had a severe oversteer, shifting suddenly from the normal bit of understeer.... and that this occurred occurred suddenly, no warning 'feel' when cornering at high speeds... i.e. the rear would kick-out and spin around before you knew it. The story he related to me was that this severe, without warning high speed oversteer was the reason MB changed rear suspensions on the 250SL and later versions.... as opposed to the 230SL's. He said, & I've experienced in my own '67 250SL that this sudden kick-out was dramatically reduced in the 250SL and later versions, but all it did was dramatically increase the speed at which the sudden kick-out occurred ... with a short warning period before it happens.
My dad's since passed away, but he was an SL enthusiast in Europe from the time we moved there in '59 'til his passing a couple years ago. ... for example, he had MB Stuttgart do any major overhauls and engine rebuilding even though he lived in Naples most of the time he owned the 250SL. He loved the Italien mountain drivers going over the Alps back and forth to Germany several times a year.... they raced over the Alps.... picking up 2 or 3 other's they would pass by, but that wanted to join the race / push it to the limits on those roads with some white knuckle adrenalin soaking "relaxed" competition... the only thing they had to watch for on the Italien side were the carbinari... but it was hell bent for leather once they hit Switzerland and Germany.... Brenner Pass as I recall.
By the way, braking with the 113 drives the center of gravity toward the front wheels big time, so severe positive camber in the rear wheels (inside wheel on a curve) will result no matter what with a swing axle... it's only a matter of how severe. The outside wheel cambers due to the forces (centrifugal force at the axle, countering resistance where rubber meets road). This forces the center of gravity to the outside... hence taking the vertical force off the inside wheel/tire, letting it lift. The noticable nose-dive on a 113 when braking is actually closer to 1/2 a nose diving and 1/2 the rear lifting! If you therefore brake at all, even decelerate at high speed on a curve, you get a double whammy.... and if you do this while cresting a hill, not only does the entire car loose traction, as soon as the rear wheels start to grab with the front wheels 'hanging' with low load on them, a much greater than half the weight of the car goes to the front wheels... while the rear wheels start to lift.... leaving nothing but big time positive camber to develop on the outer rear wheel... in short, you're lucky you didn't roll it.... so it's probably a good thing you were over-inflated since if under-inflated the side-wall could have buckled easier and you'd been riding on the outer edge of the rim... and if it weren't for the broad stance on the 113 you probably would have.
If you're going to race porches on hilly curves at 100mph +, get wheels that allow you to the lowest low profile tires and widest tread width you can find... which will mean some modification at the rear fenders when bottoming out... then don't brake into the curve or at the crest, but before you enter the curve and before you crest.... then accelerate like hell out of the curve after the car bottoms on the other side of the crest. Parenthetically, I use every inch of both lanes on a two lane road.... taking it wide on entry, cutting the corner at the apex to within an inch of dirt, then taking it wide out of the curve.... watching for oncoming traffic --- pedestrian, horses, bicycles, bikes... and oh, cars and trucks too... but those are usually easier to see before entering the curve wide.... the others aren't. But you know all this.
Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
95 SL500
