Glove box light and llock

[babarsheikh]

I am still waiting for my manual to arrive for my new 280SL and so apologize if these questions are a little basic.

How does the glove box light work? ...mine does not light up...

How is the glove box lock supposed to work? My key turns the lock but it does nothing.  Does anyone have a picture of how it's supposed to lock?  I am hoping getting it fixed is not too tricky...has anyone fixed their the lock?

Thanks,

Bobby

[J. Huber]

Hey Babar (sorry I like the ring of that...).

The light should come on the moment the door starts to open. Idea is it is on as the door is suspended horizontally, thus someone could read a map, etc... The door should have a curved arm on the left side that allows door to stay up when unlocked. The lock itself is a small latch that, when turned to locked, grabs behind the dash in an opening in the upper right of the box. You could have a bulb out, or more likely, the light wiring is amiss. I would check connectors and ground wires. Good luck.


James
63 230SL

[jeffc280sl]

There is a very small plastic spring loaded pin that sticks out near the top of the left edge of the glove box frame.  As the door is opended the pin moves forward and closes the circuit and lights the lamp.  The locking mechanism is mounted on a 4 sided shaft which sticks through the glove box door.  If your lock does not engage its possible that it is not aligned properly with this slotted shaft.  I believe it locks when the lock mechanism is turned to the vertical position.  With the door open insert your key and see is you can turn the lock tab to point towards the top of the glove box door.  If it doesn't remove the phillips screw and reposition the tab 90 degrees.  Try it again until you get the alignment correct.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[babarsheikh]

Managed to fix the lock.  I then took a picture of the bulb by shoving my camera in the box and it looked like the bulb was in bad shape so I took it out and sure enough it was blown out.  I am hoping that the wiring is all OK and the bulb is the only thing that needs to be replaced.

The bulb is a 12V 10W Osram K5618.  I looked online at it seems that there are a ton of festoon style bulbs like these and so was wondering what the replacement bulb would be. Has anyone bought and installed one of these bulbs recently?   If so what exactly did you buy?

Thanks,

Bobby

[rwmastel]

Bobby,

Why don't you buy a 12V 10W Osram K5618?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[babarsheikh]

Woops.  Forgot to mention that I googled it and while I have some vendors calling me back (they have to look at their Osram catalogs), I am assuming that it is a pretty standard bulb for which there are widely available replacements that are not necesserily the exact same bulb.

quote:Originally posted by rwmastel

Bobby,

Why don't you buy a 12V 10W Osram K5618?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[babarsheikh]

I  fixed the lock and got hold of a bulb after afew attempts.  I inserted the bulb and it worked but then it suddenly stopped working as did the light under the steering wheel. I assume something is fused or something,  what should I do now?  I am no good with electronics so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

quote:Originally posted by J. Huber

Hey Babar (sorry I like the ring of that...).

The light should come on the moment the door starts to open. Idea is it is on as the door is suspended horizontally, thus someone could read a map, etc... The door should have a curved arm on the left side that allows door to stay up when unlocked. The lock itself is a small latch that, when turned to locked, grabs behind the dash in an opening in the upper right of the box. You could have a bulb out, or more likely, the light wiring is amiss. I would check connectors and ground wires. Good luck.


James
63 230SL

[Longtooth]

Sounds like you're either shorted somewhere between fuse box take-off and switch or both under steerwheel reading light and glove box light are drawing too much current... meaning a resistor to limit current to the lamps is missing somewhere.  Both lamps are on same circuit.... but the under-steering wheel light is switched in series at both the door switch (light goes on if door's opened), and with a switch at the lamp.  The glove-box lamp is only switched at the glove-box .... so it pulls current direct from battery thru number 1 fuse I think whether car's started or key's in ignition or not.  There should be a circuit diagram in your user's manual for the car.  I'd go look at mine again but it's too late and I'm going to bed.  I'll take alook tomorrow nite to see if I can help you find out how to isolate where the short's occurring or something else is missing.

I suppose it's also possible that there's a wrong size fuse in the fuse-box at that position (too low an amperage), but I assume you've checked the fuse.

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport

[jeffc280sl]

The wiring diagram indicates the clock is also in the circuit with the lamps because it also needs to be powered at all times.  Is your clock working?

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[Longtooth]

I've made 3 trys at writing the diagnostic's for figuring out what and where your problem is, but hit some button or another on my laptop and the entire message dissappears, so I'll just forward a simplified and accurate diagram of the wiring related to the cirucuits in question, and tell you that the fuse #1 should be blown, but neither the glove-box lamp nor the entrance light lamp (under the dash) should be blown when the lights stop working.

The failure is caused most probably by a short circuit between the battery positive terminal and the fuse #1 or between fuse #1 and the lamps in question.... most probably and likely the latter.  If the car starts normally (starter motor turns over) then the short's between fuse #1 and one of the switches at the lamps --- either of the door switches, the manual entrance lamp switch, or the glove-box switch.

To rule out the side entrance lamp side of the circuit having the short to ground, close both doors (which opens both door switches), and close the glove box (opening the glove box switch).  Now manually turn on the entrance lamp switch --- sticking out of the entrance lamp itself.  If the entrance lamp stays lit then one of the circuit's can be ruled out of contributing to the short.

Next, turn off the manual entrance lamp switch, and open the right door... if the entrance lamp lights, and stays lit, then that circuit and one other can be ruled out as having a short.  

Next, close the right door and open the left door.  If the entrance lamp lights and stays lit, then that circuit isn't shorted.

If all the above worked as expected, then the short's been isolated to a single circuit between the clock terminal and the glove-box switch or between the switch and the lamp itself.  You can probably find the short at or near the switch terminal or between the switch and the lamp's positive side.

In any event, first insure that the fuse #1 is an 8 amp fuse and not larger... and that it's not blow or that you've replaced it before you start the above sequence.  By the way, fuse #1 is furthest fuse nearest the center of the car... furthest from the driver side fender.

Here's the wiring diagram you need...
     

Download Attachment: WiringDiagr1.jpg
81.32 KB

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport

[waltklatt]

Remove the interior dome light under the dash and let it hang down.  I think there is a short in the body of the light switch to the aliminum clip frame on the fabric panel.  It's touching somewhere.  
I solved it by putting as bit of electircal tape in between the clip frame and the dome light.  
Wlater Klatt
1967 220SL-diesel
1963 230SL-gas

[babarsheikh]

Thanks very much, really appreciate it.  I will take a look as soon as possible but may end up being sat morning.

quote:Originally posted by Longtooth

I've made 3 trys at writing the diagnostic's for figuring out what and where your problem is, but hit some button or another on my laptop and the entire message dissappears, so I'll just forward a simplified and accurate diagram of the wiring related to the cirucuits in question, and tell you that the fuse #1 should be blown, but neither the glove-box lamp nor the entrance light lamp (under the dash) should be blown when the lights stop working.

The failure is caused most probably by a short circuit between the battery positive terminal and the fuse #1 or between fuse #1 and the lamps in question.... most probably and likely the latter.  If the car starts normally (starter motor turns over) then the short's between fuse #1 and one of the switches at the lamps --- either of the door switches, the manual entrance lamp switch, or the glove-box switch.

To rule out the side entrance lamp side of the circuit having the short to ground, close both doors (which opens both door switches), and close the glove box (opening the glove box switch).  Now manually turn on the entrance lamp switch --- sticking out of the entrance lamp itself.  If the entrance lamp stays lit then one of the circuit's can be ruled out of contributing to the short.

Next, turn off the manual entrance lamp switch, and open the right door... if the entrance lamp lights, and stays lit, then that circuit and one other can be ruled out as having a short.  

Next, close the right door and open the left door.  If the entrance lamp lights and stays lit, then that circuit isn't shorted.

If all the above worked as expected, then the short's been isolated to a single circuit between the clock terminal and the glove-box switch or between the switch and the lamp itself.  You can probably find the short at or near the switch terminal or between the switch and the lamp's positive side.

In any event, first insure that the fuse #1 is an 8 amp fuse and not larger... and that it's not blow or that you've replaced it before you start the above sequence.  By the way, fuse #1 is furthest fuse nearest the center of the car... furthest from the driver side fender.

Here's the wiring diagram you need...
     

Download Attachment: WiringDiagr1.jpg
81.32 KB

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport