Valve Adjustment Problem

[113gray]

In measuring my clearances today, one intake seems too tight & at least 5 exhaust seem too loose using .003" & .007" respectively. However, when I tried to loosen or tighten the adjusting 14 mm hex nuts for correction, it seems to require excessive torque to move these bolts - so much so, that I'm worried about rounding them off or even breaking them. I can use a breaker bar, but this seems even more excessive, way more force than I would expect necessary. I am using a 14 mm crowfoot & this makes me a little nervous also. Before I get into trouble, I thought I'd better ask for some advice. Thanks, -JP- '66 230SL

[JimVillers]

JP .... The "crow-foot" is not strong enough.  You need to buy the special tool for adjusting the valves.  You will most likely bend open the crow-foot before moving the adjuster.  Here is an image:

Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-Speed, 190E 2.3-16 Kompressor, MGB 5-Speed

[Naj ✝︎]

On such adjusters, I removed the rocker finger and used a hex (not bi-hex) socket to move the adjuster in the required direction before reinstalling the rocker.
Bit of trial and error required....

naj

68 280SL

[JimVillers]

A better picture of the required tool (about $80-100).


Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-Speed, 190E 2.3-16 Kompressor, MGB 5-Speed

[lurtch]

- - one more thing JP,
Be sure and check the camlobe for scuffing on the one that was running too tight. Several of mine were damaged beyond repair.  Larry in CA

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[ja17]

Hello Jim P,

Naj and Jim V are right on target. The factory tool is a must. The jaws on it are deeper than a standard crows foot. You can use a breaker bar with it. If you still have problems, use naj's suggestion and remove the rocker arm and use a six point socket on it. Once the ball stud adjuster is broken loose you can re-install the rocker arm and the adjuster tool should work.

This is not uncommon on engines left without a valve adjustment for many miles. Things get stuck. It is a good idea to loosen the radiator cap and re-torque the head before beginning the procedure if it has not been done in a while.

On your valve adjustment, I like to insert the feeler guage and turn  the adjuster until the feeler gauge is locked in place , then I loosen the ball stud adjuster until the feller gauge can be removed with slight drag. Good luck!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[113gray]

WOW! Where else on earth can you post your problem in the late PM & get 100% expert answers -with pictures- before 8 AM the following morning, a Sunday? Our group is just a wonderful resource. To Joe A., yes, I did retorque the headbolts (hot/radiator cap off) before attempting the valve adjustment. Thanks to all,   Jim Pancoast

[rogerh113]

Hello,

Sounds like an essential tool (I was just waiting for my regular crow's foot to round off one of the adjusting nuts).  Is Hazet the recommended brand and does anyone have a part number??  Also, is there a suggested vendor that carries these?

Thanks -- Roger

[erickmarciano]

what is the procedure to retorque the head?
thanks

1999 ml320<sold it at last>
2004 Volvo s60 T5
1971 280sl
1962 VW bug
1954 Allstate vespa
1958 gs150 vespa
1962 gs160 vespa

[psmith]

Hey Roger,

If you find one, maybe that's something several of us Nor-Cal guys could go in together on.

Pete S.

[Naj ✝︎]

Hazet Tappet adjustment crow-foots:

14mm    2770-2
17mm    2770-3

naj

68 280SL

[Ben]

I just did this on my 280SE, every one of the adjusters was extremely tight, I had to remove each rocker and adjust a refit, very tight !!

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

[113gray]

Eric, For RE-torquing, the head bolts: a) engine should be @ operating temp; b) loosen each bolt individually +/- 1/2 turn, re-tightern to specs (I used 70 ft-lbs) & then go to the next bolt in sequence. (Don't loosen all at once.)c) Start with the middle pair & work out. #1 is the DS middle bolt, #2 the PS, #3 DS in front of the middle pair, #4 PS, #5 DS just aft of mid pair, #6 PS, ----etc. There are 14 in all. The 4 smaller bolts on the front are tightened manually by "feel", and are do not require the degree of torque/precision of the other 14 (I think). The BBB, Haynes & TDM have good diagrams.  d) Note that torquing the bolts when installing the head is a different process.     -JP-

[rogerh113]

Hi Pete,

Maybe a good idea if it can be kept track of...  essential tool that you only need very occasionally (and can be planned ahead).  

I have every confidence I can find one.

Roger

[rogerh113]

Thanks for the part numbers.  Are the adjustment nuts 14mm or 17mm???   It's super hot in the garage due to the weather here, so I am avoiding a quick visit under the valve cover if at all possible......

Thanks -- Roger

[Cees Klumper]

The 14 mm is for the 230 SL, 17 mm for the 280 SL (and possibly the 250 SL)

I found that even with the Hazet tool, it can still round off the adjusters. If that is at all at risk, remove the rocker arm and use the 6-point socket. There are handy tools for removing the rocker arms, otherwise it can be done with a large screwdriver to depress the valve spring.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[rogerh113]

Thanks Cees.  Sounds like the most practical approach is for me to learn how to remove a rocker arm..... shouldn't be too tough.

Regards -- Roger

[enochbell]

JP,

Take heed, especially of Cees' post.  That 14mm Hazet will still round the ball stud in a Pagoda minute, especially if the studs have been idle for a while.  The rockers come off easily if you have a spring tool, I got an inexpensive one and it works just fine.  You can then "crack" the studs with a deep socket and they will adjust with the Hazet upon reassembly.  If you have already screwed it up, let me know.  I have a few extra ball studs I bought on my first (painful) try at this.

Best,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[rogerh113]

Hi,

What does this inexpensive spring tool look like, and where did you get it??  Sounds like using a regular crows-foot after loosening may still round out the bolt??  

I have a 2.5 liter low compression engine, so it seems like I will have to open up the valve cover to find out what's in there......

Thanks -- Roger

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by rogerh113

I have every confidence I can find one.

http://samstagsales.com/

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[enochbell]

Roger,

I picked up up the spring compresser from Napa, it is a "universal" for OH cam engines.  I recall it was about $30.  And yes, the crow foot will round the shoulders for sure.  BTW, the ball stud has a remarkably simple way of keeping it's tension.  There are actually 2 sets of threads on the bottom of the stud, the first (bottom) will screw in to the head with about the effort of a spark plug but then you get to the second set (top) that are machined just a tad off of the first set.  Same pitch, just a hair off from the first set, and enough to create the constant (and very high) friction that keeps the ball stud from moving.

Best,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[lurtch]

Being frugal to a fault - - - I refused to buy a tool I would only use once every couple of years so I came up with a better idea. The photos illustate the use of a special tool I made to facilitate the valve adjusting operation.

By slipping the rocker arm out of the way you can make the fine adjustment on the ball stud by using a 1/2 in drive deep socket instead of the HAZET tool. Then just compress the valve spring, slip it back in between the forks of this tool,  and recheck your adjustment.

For what it's worth - - Larry in CA

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Download Attachment: spring-compression-tool.jpg
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Download Attachment: tool-close-up.jpg
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[psmith]

Hi Larry,

It sounds like Roger and some of the rest of us need to come over for a demonstration of your valve adjustment tool!

Pete S.

[Ben]

I just use a long screwdriver, engine is in the car so less room, but it only takes about 3 seconds to remove a rocker !

Question; If you have to adjust the valves because you have excess clearance, you are therefore "loosening" the adjuster. Is there a risk of opening the wrong threads i.e the part the adjuster screws into ? Will it come out of the head ?

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

[ja17]

Hello Ben,

The chance of the base coming loose is very unlikely.  I have seen cases where the ball stud threads become loose and replacement of the ball stud is needed. Sometimes these "ball studs" wear forming a crown on their tops. If badly "crowned" the crown  should be ground off or the ball stud replaced.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio