Radiator

[pferg]

A few weeks ago I mention to the group that I was having a overheat problem with my 1966 230SL.  I've done all the checks and had the radiator removed and tested for proper flow.  I was told this morning that the radiator need to be re-cored and it would cost me around $500.00  Can you buy a  new radiator for these cars?  Is this a fair price for re-coring a radiator?  Thank!!!

[Kenneth Gear]

That's appears to be about the going rate perhaps a bit on the high side.

A new OEM radiator for some reason is out-of-site expensive ($2,000) but there are replacements available for about the cost of a recore.

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red

[lurtch]

Hello  - - Be advised that your overheating troubles may not be a problem your radiator. These aluminum heads are prone to corrosion in the small internal water passages between the head and the block. My head had seven of the fifteen passages completely  plugged with corrosion scale. If the coolant cannot freely pass through the head and back down into the radiator, you can bet the engine will overheat. For what it's worth - -

Larry in CA

[peterm]

Actually cooling problems are well documented in this web site.  Research will tell you about;
water wetter,fan clutch,timing,fan shroud,water pump,etc etc  
my favorite recent quote from Gernold of SLTech is "don't take the car out if its over 90 degrees"

[George Davis]

I think $500 is rather high.  I paid about $220 a couple years ago for a recore with a high efficiency core (dimpled tubes and higher fin count).

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[Cees Klumper]

Larry seems to be onto something, the corroded passages in the head? Is there a way/product to clean those out without having to take the head off ?

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[J. Huber]

At the risk of being labeled the guy with a huge "S" on his forehead, I'm afraid I paid much more than George for a High-Efficiency recore about 4 years ago. It was even more than your estimate Pferg...but the car has not flinched in all types of heat, so I consider it a good, albeit expensive, fix for my car. I'd say 500 may not be too far off -- if ya dare trust my counsel!

James
63 230SL

[ja17]

Most of the time this type of internal corrosion is caused by no or very old anti-freeze in the engine. Engine coolant turns acidic with age and will eat away at the engine internals and cause deposites throughout the cooling system. Engine coolant can be checked for its acid level. In most cases it should just be changed on a regular basis. Although most brands will work fine, "Mercedes Benz" (dealer) antifreeze is specially formulated for Mercedes engines to the factory's specifications and should hold up a little longer than "off the shelf brands". In any case changing coolant every few years , in any climate, could save you from a major repair someday.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[George Davis]

Maybe I just got lucky on the cost of the recore, but to clarify, the $220 was for recore work only.  I removed and replaced the rad myself, so that cost is not in the price.  With r&r I'd expect considerably more.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[J. Huber]

Hello George, that makes me feel a little better... I bet some of it also depends on where one is in the world (and what the going hourly rate happens to be).

James
63 230SL

[113gray]

Cees (Case), Citric acid flush is said to be the solution. It is available from MBz in 1.1. lb containers (PN A 000 989 10 25). You may be able to get it cheaper from a druggist or online. The directions I have are to dissolve contents in slightly more than 1 gal water, run it in your engine for a while, then flush repeatedly. Sounds like at least a morning's work & these directions are a little vague. I have somewhat better ones somewhere. Let me know if you need them & I'll try to find them. I have not had to use this treatment yet for my cars.   -JP-

[66andBlue]

There is a new one listed on eBay for $385:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&item=200013328276
I believe Bob Possel bought one from them and I'd check with him to see how it is performing:
http://sl113.com/forums/index.php?topic=2890

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[bpossel]

I didnt buy from Tigras.  I purchased an "after market" high eff radiator from "Rarepart".  I dont see them listed on ebay anymore?
I had this after market radiator in my car up until recently, when it was damaged during my "off roading" adventure.  While it was in the car, it performed very well.  When I damaged it a couple of weeks ago, I decided to pull my original radiator out from the attic and have it recored into a high eff radiator.  Cost with tax was approx $475 (recor & repaint).  I did labor of pulling and installing myself.
My car keeps a good temp, 180 or slightly lower while driving.  In stop and go traffic (summers in Memphis), it will go up to the 190 range.
I have also replaced my fan clutch, and water pump.  In the summer, I run 30% antifreeze and 70% distilled water with "Redline Water Wetter" added to the water.
Note: the current radiator on ebay is for a manual, not automatic. The radiator for the automatic will have 2 additional connections on the lower tank for the auto-trans cooler lines.
Bob


bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320