quote:
Originally posted by mkhadir
I believe the red light is designed to tell you if the battery is not charging - which could be a problem with the alternator or the regulator.
I think its a wiring problem on my car. Have decided to keep driving for a few more days to how much of a problem it is and then take it back to the mechanic to check all the wiring.
Cheers
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
I'm not one of the experts, but I believe sometimes the red light will come on if the idle is too low (thus it goes away when the engine is revved up). I would say this is not a sign of a bad alternator but rather an indication that the car needs to be tuned or timed a little.
James
63 230SL
Ok since I swung and missed badly on this one, I have a couple questions...
1. If the red light comes on and the idle is fluctuating from normal to low, are these two things not related?
2. Is the red light designed to tell us the alternator is ailing or only that the voltage regulator is bad?
I ask because my red light now comes on for a moment at cold start-up. The rpms are also a bit unsteady right after start-up. The red light goes off after revving engine or starting to drive. The rpms soon level off as well and are steady when warm. Two separate issues?
James
63 230SL
mubeen
melbourne, australia
1966 230SL auto, ps
There is a loop back when a diode is blown. The red light will come on and stay on when the ignition is turned off.
This indicates that voltage is being applied to the rotor winding and eventually your battery will be flat.
To continue using the car with reduced charging you can disconnect the battery when the engine is turned off.
I did this for a couple of weeks before finding time to have the original alternator rebuilt.
Everything is back to normal after the diode module was replaced. The external regulator works fine so was not replaced.
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto