3,27 axle checkout, reseal, repair & install

[doitwright]

Jeff,

I picked up a 3.27 axle recently and there is a very slight amount of play (about 1/16") when rotating the wheel back and forth.  It is nothing like what Joe demonstrates in his video.  Do you think this would be a good candidate for a conversion?  Is some play normal or acceptable?  I plan to compare to my existing 3.92 axle.

Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Light Ivory

[jeffc280sl]

Frank,

I could not find the spec Joe refers to in the video. The play you describe would not stop me from tearing into the differential to inspect the yoke that Joe talks about.  That's the only way I can think of to absolutely determine the viability of using it as a replacement for your SL.  Let me know if you decide to proceed and have any questions about breaking it down for inspection.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[hill]

Did you get my PM a few months ago?

Happy Benzing
Darryl, Hill
350 SL4.5 #60
1967 250sl "California"

[jeffc280sl]

Hill,

I don't recall receiving a PM from you.  I'll be happy to try and respond if you resend it.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[BABAK]

Well it drives much nicer than before .I drove to paradise cove in Malibu on sunday and what a great change man. Lower rpm and we can hear the radio much better too. By the way 1 thing that did not fit was the emergency brake cables because mine was drum brakes the new 3.72 is disc. Other than that every thing fit nicely. And O YA a lot OF help from Jeff C. THANK YOU Jeff.

[George Des]

Jeff,

Lot of good info here. I have the ZF 5 Speed with the 4.08 Euro rear end and I'm not interested in swapping out the rear. I am curious though on the rebuild procedure. I've got a slight rear whine and leak from my pinion seal  which I replaced when I had my rear torn down. I did not go as far as you did and did not replace any of the bearings, shims, or crush spacer on the pinion. I did replace almost everything else though, including the axle shaft bearings, seals, differential rubbers, hanger tube, etc. I did not go further in the breakdown because I had seen all the talk about "red rouge" tests and gear spacing in a Chilton's I had and did not want to get into that. I fear now that I may have not got the pre-load correct on the pinion nut and have either overtightened it or undertightened even though I followed the procedure in the Chilton's using a torque wrecnh--I don't think this is very accurate to tell the truth. Questions--did you replace the crush spacer, any of the shims and/or did you run up against any issues with the proper mating of the gears.

George Des

[jeffc280sl]

George,

I did not replace the crush sleeve or any of the differential bearings.  Like you I did the axle shaft bearings, seals, differential rubbers, hanger tube and pinion seal.  I've not had any problems with leaks or noise.  Did you open the differential case and inspect the spider gears,bearings, bearing surfaces, etc? When I took my old axle apart I noticed a loose allen bolt which secures the u-joint.  I found that odd and wondered what the future would be like if the bolt came completely loose. Curious to understand why the new pinion seal is leaking.  I have my old 3.92 axle torn down and sitting in the garage.  If you need any pics let me know.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[jeffc280sl]

Babak,

You are welcome for the help and I'm glad you like the "new" axle.  I drove mine about 600 highway miles this past weekend to see my son at college and find crusing at 80 to 90 mph (I was just keeping up with traffic officer) very nice.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[wbain]

Jeff, I know it's been a while since the overhaul, but how do you set the ring and pinion gear position and preload with the shims etc?

Thanks

Warren Bain 1965 220S, 1989 300SE, 1989 420SEL, 2002 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor

[jeffc280sl]

Waren,

Here is an excellent description of process.  I used an in/lb torque wrench instead of the weights.  Other than that and the fact that the discussion is about a Jag I found it very good.  Have a look at it and let me know if you have any additional questions.

http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/diff/index.htm

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[bpossel]

Hi Jeff!

Thanks for your earlier post on removing the rear axle.  As you look over your steps below, would you add any add'l information to help me as I plan to drop mine?  Or are your steps complete?  Any add'l hints, tips, advice?  

I replaced my pinion seal a year ago, but still have sepage coming from somewhere...  I cant seem to locate the slight drip, but know it is not from the pinion...

Thanks!
Bob

quote:Originally posted by jeffc280sl

Had 3 hours to spare today so I thought I'd get started on removing the 3,92 rear axle from my 280SL.  Things have gone smoothly so far and here is where I stand.

1) Removed exhaust system  ( job much easier because I have a 6 month old stainless steel system.  Just needed to loosen some clamps and presto)
2) Disconnect emergency brake cable
3) Remove compensating spring ( much easier second time for this, I installed an Olson spring set 3years ago)
4)Loosen, two turns, slip nut on drive shaft mid section. (made a 46mm wrench as per BBB, made this job a snap)
5) Disconnect rear drive shaft to axle connection.
6) Disconnect trailing arm to body and remove L&R coil springs. (see note above for comp spring)


This week I expect to complete the following steps and remove the old axle.

1) Disconnect hydraulic brake lines
2) Disconnect cross strut bolts 7&9
3) Loosen lower shock bolts
4) Raise and support rear axle and remove hex bolt in trunk disconnect shock bolts and lower axle.


Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[George Des]

Jeff,

The allen bolt I think you mention is the one that secures the sliding joint. I have heard that if this bolt does come loose that the sliding joint can separate from the differential and flail around causing considerable damage not only to itself but also the differential and axle housing on that side. For that reason, it is suggested that whenever the axle shaft on that side is removed, that the integrity of that bolt i.e. the torque setting be checked. As I recall, when I had mine apart, I also used some lock tight on this bolt.

George Des

[jeffc280sl]

Hi Bob,

Those are the basic steps.  Please be careful around the springs especially the compensating spring.  Have a look at the BBB for the steps involved in removing the axle and trailing arms. I seem to remember Joe mentioning a very good way to remove the compensating spring.  Suggest you look for it.  It may have involed removing the coil springs first to releive as much tension as possible.  The axle shaft ends need to be supported by the fully extended shock absorbers so the compensating spring tension is as little as possible. You may be able to remove the lower shock bolt and further reduce spring tension on the swing axle side. Just be very careful. Using a spring compressor releive spring tension and then remove the two bolts that hold the stop for the spring.  Then remove the spring.

Not sure this step is needed.  Just about all of the axles I have seen for sale have the compensating spring still installed.  I was refurbing the axle and needed to do this step at some point.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[glennard]

Amen.  Had it come loose on a 111 Coupe- tore up the diff housing.  Bye, bye rear end.




quote]Originally posted by George Des

Jeff,

The allen bolt I think you mention is the one that secures the sliding joint. I have heard that if this bolt does come loose that the sliding joint can separate from the differential and flail around causing considerable damage not only to itself but also the differential and axle housing on that side. For that reason, it is suggested that whenever the axle shaft on that side is removed, that the integrity of that bolt i.e. the torque setting be checked. As I recall, when I had mine apart, I also used some lock tight on this bolt.

George Des
[/quote]

[wbain]

Jeff, thanks for your reply. I was also wondering about selecting the correct shims so the gears mesh properly. My service manual is a little sketchy on this and I'll probably have to get the ponton 190 service manual.

Thanks

Warren Bain 1965 220S, 1989 300SE, 1989 420SEL, 2002 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor

[jeffc280sl]

Waren,

I did not tear down mt rear axle to this level.  Had a look at the 220S parts list and it shows spacing washers from .8mm to 1.5mm for this purpose.  The books I have do not address details at this level.

Good luck finding the information.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[hill]

I know that the 108 4.5 rear end will work. How about the the 300 sel 6.3 ?

Happy Benzing
Darryl, Hill
350 SL4.5 #60
1967 250sl "California"

[jeffc280sl]

Hill,

I'm not familiar with the 300SEL rear axle.  JA17 is your best source of information.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[ja17]

Hello Hill,

The 300Se, SEL sedans (W109) chassis all had air suspensions. The rear differentials will not bolt up to a W113 without major reconstruction of the chassis.

The 300SEL 6.3 did have the air suspension also and had a 2.87 ratio!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[hill]

JEFFC280 + JA17 Thanks for the replies. Things like this make this such a good site No politics religion or name caling. People acting like adults, whood a thunk that.

[Buz]

Are there any ring and pinions between the 3.92 abd the 3.27 that fit a w113?  I think a 3.27 is too tall for an automatic starting in 2nd gear.

[jameshoward]

As I am searching for a 1:3.27 diff I thought I'd trawl SLS's pages to see what they offer.  From what I can see, and from little I understand, I think that their page shows some gears that look like a replacement for the original ones that seem to give the 1:3,27 ratio. I've attached a photo. Look at part 20. When one clicks on that part you are taken to the detail page which shows a variable from the 1:4,08 to the 1:3,27.

It may be necessary to go to their webpage to see what I mean (link below) but is it possible to have a set of different 'bits' that one can fit into the original housing and get different gearing?

http://www.sls-hh-catalogue.de/bin/dbframes.phtml?mid=IN02

If so, is it just a case of purchasing the new parts at the desired ratio and fitting them, he asks, expecting the answer 'no.'

James

Download Attachment: diff.jpg
182.77 KB

[Naj ✝︎]

quote:Originally posted by Buz

Are there any ring and pinions between the 3.92 abd the 3.27 that fit a w113?  I think a 3.27 is too tall for an automatic starting in 2nd gear.

Yes:
3.75 on some early 230SLs
3.69 diff casing???
3.46 The diff casing is bigger too

naj

68 280SL

[DavidBrough]

I’ve been pondering the possibility of an axel change as my 4.08 280 auto can be a bit frantic at speeds above 60mph. In looking at the possibilities I think a 3.27 would be too tall and have been told that the 3.46 axel from a 107 350SL will fit with little modification. Has anyone any information on this as the ratio sounds about spot on for an auto.


David Brough
1969 280SL Auto with A/C

[Naj ✝︎]

quote:Originally posted by DavidBrough

I’ve been pondering the possibility of an axel change as my 4.08 280 auto can be a bit frantic at speeds above 60mph. In looking at the possibilities I think a 3.27 would be too tall and have been told that the 3.46 axel from a 107 350SL will fit with little modification. Has anyone any information on this as the ratio sounds about spot on for an auto.


David Brough
1969 280SL Auto with A/C

David,
A 107 has a different independent suspension setup.

You want an axle from a 280SE 3.5
I got a 3.46 limited slip diff out of one. It has the bigger diff case with an oil cooler tube.
There are some out there with a 3.69 as well.


naj


68 280SL