Author Topic: Ignition coils  (Read 5510 times)

al_lieffring

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Ignition coils
« on: October 12, 2006, 13:46:45 »
Hey Ya'll

I'm trying to find out If it can be determined by the Bosch part numbers on the bottom of the coil If is is a blue "Super Coil" or the blue TSZ ignition coil.

I have 3 diferent coils and would like to know for sure that I have the correct application.

Bosch # 0 221 102 036...Black coil, A definite match but looks very old.

Bosch # 1 221 118 006...Blue Coil, Have 2 of these,

Bosch # 0 221 119 027...Blue Coil, currently on car with 0.8 ohm ballast, weak spark, burning up points.

Originaly there was a red diamond shaped label on the blue coils to tell if they were for TSZ or a Super Coil. But these paper labels are long gone by now.

Any one got a Bosch #s application chart??

Thanks in advance for your help

Al

113-042-10-014715
built 11 Jan 66
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition- rust bucket

mdsalemi

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Re: Ignition coils
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2006, 06:39:36 »
Al I just went through this and found the topic frustrating with little answers except that which I found myself.  I'll share what I know.

First--point of fact--a Bosch part number beginning with a 0 originates in Germany.  1 indicates elsewhere, like Mexico or Brazil.

There are quite a few diffferent Bosch "Blue" coils out there.  I had one from Mexico with about 12 different part numbers on it.

There are some Blue coils with internal resistance and some without.  You need to measure.

I think the main difference in coil color is the secondary voltage; the blue is supposed to be around 19kv; the old, original black somewhat less, and the red, somewhat more.  Also, in the range of blue coils, there are those oil filled and those not.

That's what I found out, but not from a single source, I'm afraid.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

al_lieffring

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Re: Ignition coils
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2006, 08:34:57 »
Hey ya'll

Thanks for the reply, I think it's time to take a different tack to find the answer.

Does anyone have a  blue coil that they are fairly sure came with a transistor ignition (TSZ) 70 or 71 USA model and can check if it has the
Bosch # 1 221 118 006

Thanks

Al

113-042-10-014715
built 11 Jan 66
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition- rust bucket

hands_aus

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Re: Ignition coils
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2006, 05:20:22 »
Hello Al,
I just had a look on the Bosch web site http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/html/2250.htm
and I see the 0 221 119 027 coil that is currently on your car is used on lots of 4 cylinder cars ranging from Alfas to Austins and Fiats.
I am not sure if that is helpful to you
cheers

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best

al_lieffring

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Re: Ignition coils
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2006, 08:46:26 »
thanks Bob

The Bosch USA web site doesn't show any reference to the 10 digit part numbers any more.

Your information does help, because it confirms that I have a replacement coil on my car and not one for the TSZ system.

al

 



113-042-10-014715
built 11 Jan 66
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition- rust bucket

al_lieffring

  • Guest
Re: Ignition coils
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2006, 16:21:10 »
Hey Ya'll

This afternoon I put a fresh battery in my Snap-On K-volt tester, (scope on a rope) and decided to install each of the different coils that I have and see what differences there might be.

When running and at idle they all ran within 1 kv of each other, I ran them all through the 1.8ohm ballast for a even compairison. The Blue Super coil had the lowest readings,  then the stock black coil, then the TSZ coils the highest.
Next I checked them with an air gap spark tester, basicly a spark plug with the ground electrode cut off and a mounting clip to hold it to ground.

The blue replacement coil wouldn't arc the air gap at all, the stock coil threw a nice spark across the gap, and the TSZ coil was so strong that the coil wire was arcing straight to ground.

I bolted on the TSZ coil and drove it around the block, the ignition would cut out at 2500 rpm, it must be overloading the condensor.

I had been told once long ago that TSZ coils are wound differently inside because the TSZ controll box switches the + side of the coil and the - is attached directly to ground, and that they are incompatable with points and condesors, I guess this proves it.

So I installed the black coil, tried it again and it ran fine.
Starts much easier now than it did when I was driving the car 20 years ago. I am now  able to run the fuel rack much leaner than before, and the motor no longer cuts out at throttle tip in.

Of the three different coils the blue replacement coil has the highest primary resistance, my guess is that it is an internal resistance coil and the smaller case diameter would mean that it is not an oil filled coil. Because I had it installed with an external balast it was just barely making enough spark to run the car and unless the dwell was perfect it wouldn't run at all. So it wasn't realy burning up the points.
Because I have installed the starter solenoid's ballast bypass circuit, I do want a balast so I can have reserve voltage available for starting.

I guess the parts warehouse that sold us those coils made an incorrect (Spridgets and Minors) application. The large parts warehouses often buy close outs and surplus from Bosch and as I just found out, it can be nearly impossible to track the 10 digit numbers backward to an application.

Al  :O)





113-042-10-014715
built 11 Jan 66
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition- rust bucket

Bob G ✝︎

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Re: Ignition coils
« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2006, 20:33:03 »
This is a good conversation. Some back ground information on my 1968 280SL. When I got the car it had an electrial short problem that cut out the ignition when driven. Left to sit about an hour it would fire back up. On further inspection I noticed that I had a red top coil that was cracked. I am not sure this is the correct coil for my year SL, but It was a referrence point to start. I called Tom when he was working at Caliber motors and learned I had a 250SL coil not the silver coil for electronic ignition. I don't remember the part number but that is what I replaced it with . I also order the factory ignition cooper wire core set  and a new distributor cap and rotor.
Know I am looking to replace a later alumium ignition distributor with a freshly restored 051 Bosch thanks to Dan "Dr Benz".
I am running stock Bosch spark plugs I also have NGK old stock.
I am hoping to get the right ignition parts sorted out so I can get my car running correctly .
I did go to the Bosch web-site but there is no mention of a M130 motor or a coil for an early W113 SL. Very disapointing.
Bob Geco
« Last Edit: October 18, 2006, 20:37:31 by Bob G »