Orbital Polishers

[Douglas]

I was inspired by watching the detailer in London working with his orbital polisher.

Two questions for our more meticulous polishers out there (esp. Bob Geco):

1. Do you think an amateur can work with an orbital polisher effectively or is it really too easy to damage the paint/clearcoat?

2. Would it be okay to go out and buy an inexpensive unit at the Home Depot or must you spring for a fancy model?

I've always used my bare hands cleaning cars, so this is new territory for me. Thanks for any insight out there on this.

Douglas Kim
New York
USA

[hauser]

Hi Doug

I have an orbital Waxmaster polisher.  I've used it on the Pagoda a couple times and found that I get a little bit better results doing it by hand.  It seems that in my case using side to side and up and down motions decreases swirl marks.   On horizontal surfaces I use the back and forword method while verticle sufaces are up and down.  After using this technique swirl maks were reduced.

I believe that Uhaul rented these machines at one time.  Don't know if they still do.

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

[jstuart]

Douglas, I also was inspired by that clip.  

To answer your questions:

1. An orbital by nature doesn't have the speed to burn.
2. Buy the best you can get.

The polisher he was using was not an orbital...looked to me like an angle grinder with an foam wheel attachment.  IMHO the "wheel" is a very effective tool as long as you remember that speed is the enemy when using any cutting agent such as a rubbing compound and as long as a "variable speed" tool is used along with a little common sense you should be safe.  A light compound followed by a swirl remover, then wax, will do wonders for your cars finish....just go slow.

Too much speed and you can burn the paint....you will know.

Jay

1969 280SL

[glcg123]

I have used an orbital polisher for several years. Orbital polishers by their nature will not harm paint if you follow the instructions and use common sense. I do not recommend the angle grinder style that the body shops use because they will usually leave fine swirl marks. The guys who do the clean up at most body shops are at the lower end of the experience scale. I have seen too many poor jobs with this type of equipment.

The paint on my Benz is original and as such is an enamel. This summer I used some fine white rubbing compund (Turtle Wax - Polishing Compound and Scratch Remover) to take out the marks that occur when washing. I always use a squirt bottle to wet the surface down and use the polisher to smooth out the paint. I also use a squirt of water to remove the haze. If you let it dry to long it is tough to remove. It takes time but the surface will be ultra smooth.

I follow it up with a hand applied wax, Simoniz Carnuba. Again, I use a squirt bottle to wet the paint to make things flow better.

I have used this technique for the past few years on my Audis and have also done work on various cars for friends. They always comment that my cars look like new.

It just takes a bit of know how, and a bit of time.

George

1965 230SL 4 spd - Papyrus white, Acquamarine leaher interior

[Bob G ✝︎]

Ok you got my ears burning. Orbit polishers began in the 1950's they were modified floor polishers with heavy chassies and very comberson to use on the sides of the vehical. Later modification to these polishers began turning up in lite weight plastic and in body shop and auto dealer reconditioning for used cars that went on sale in the dealers lot knowen as Polisher DAs used for sanding in orbit motion and polishing lite defects out with small 4 inch and 6 inch polishing pads used with air compressors.
1980 saw a need to modify a new more user friendly polisher with an orbit direction instead of a rotory polisher which takes great care and knoledge to use. I remember when I saw the first DA electric polishers introduced at the International Carwash Association convention & seminars in Las Vegas. They wer made by Porter Cable . Marketed as a orbit sander someone got the bright idea to developed a velcro 4inch & 6 inch pad that could use the European foam pads that started arriving on our shores.
The Porter Cable found a new market for detailers and home users as a safe and efficient, intermediate solution to hand compounding and polishing and waxing a vehical.
With a speed control and controlled weight and a handle that could be put on the right and left side of the polisher the need for heavy DA polishers introduced to car washes became a thing of the passed.
Know the questions concerning proper use of  the Porter Cable DA polisher are just common sense. The polisher was not designed for heavy oxidation. It was developed to keep good paint looking fresh. Meguires one of the leading manufactors of automotive polishes has designed polishes just for application with this tool. It is recommened not to mix products into one pad and use separate pads for different application of cleaner and polishes. Do not use on top of thin body lines with thin paint.
Cleaning pads takes just a tap of the dried polish or washing under luke warm water and setting out to dry.
Girots Garage has developed their own version to compete with Porter Cable both mechines are a cheap investment about $130.00 each not including foam polishing pads.
I recommend that when Joe and Mary put on another Pagoda fest at their home in Ohio I would be glad to do a demmonstration of how to use this machine. Like all new tools it takes getting use to and mastering.

For those intrested in obtaining more information a web site for detailing www. autotopia .org will give you more information on these tools.

Happy Motoring
Bob Geco

[Bob G ✝︎]

I messed up on the address for the detailing site for more Porter Cable how to use information. the correct address is www.autopia.org. You might have to get a log on registration and use the search forum put in Porter Cable in the search bar if you do not fine listing.

Here is the link for how to use the Porter Cable DA polisher.http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-porter-cable-7424-car-polisher.html
Bob Geco

[280SE Guy]

Doug,

I bought a Porter Cable from Coastal Tool last month along with a "HOW-TO use the PC for show car results" DVD. It is a fine tool and I'm sure you would be able to do wonderfull things with it.

The issue seams to be what pads to use with it. I ordered a couple of pads with the Porter Cable 7424 from Coastal Tool and a couple from a place in Florida but have not had a chance to use the pads from Florida yet.

The trick is to use the least abrasive cleaner/polish that you can to achive the results you are looking for.

Later,

[Bob G ✝︎]

I found another great guide in PDF format for using the Porter cable Dual Action polisher and rotory polishers. It has some good information that I hope will help our forum members & DIY .you will have to click on the PDF format to down load to your printer or computer.
Bob Geco

http://www.properautocare.com/fopadapgu.html

[hauser]

Here's the type of orbital machine I have. http://www.nealsharbor.com/store/polishmaster_buffers.html The only difference is that mine is an older model Waxmaster by Waxcoa (nla).  The soft rubber pad on it is quite thick and somewhat flexable which is great.

I must admit that I have used it on my Pagoda and I did acheive some pretty good results from it to a certain point.  Once I had the paint in pretty good shape (clay bar, cleaner wax, buffer and squirt bottle etc...) it seemed that the only way to get it to the next level was to go at it the old fashioned way.  By hand.  I got rid of the swirl marks and my paint never looked better.

BTW  www.nealsharbour.com  is a great source for buffers, parts and bonnets.  

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

[jstuart]

Doug check this thread.

http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12377

Best.

Jay

1969 280SL