Steering Shaft Coupling & Gearbox

[bpossel]

Update...

I pulled out the new gearbox this past weekend to correct alignment.  When I installed it the first time, the coupling must have moved a few splines... causing the steering wheel to be off center.

This time, with the new box on the bench, and the coupling removed from the steering shaft, I installed the coupling on the steering gear box, then slide the entire box w/coupling onto the steering shaft.

The new gear box came aligned in it's neutral, centered position.  It has a notch on the gearbox shaft and has a paint mark on the outer edge.  This saves having to remove the standard factory nut, using the MB tool (referenced in the BBB) to ensure alignment.

Whats required is to ensure that the coupling pinch slot on the side of the steering shaft aligns with full neutral position of the box, or rather the notch & paint mark on the new box.

See attached pic which shows the coupling on the new steering gear box.  The yellow paint mark came already on the box, showing the center position.  The red paint marks are the ones that I put on to ensure alignment.

Download Attachment: coupling.jpg
70.19 KB

With the steering wheel positioned to ensure the notch on the shaft was pointing up and the steering wheel was in it's true straight position, per original factory setting, the new gearbox was installed.
It was difficult to install the new gearbox with the coupling already on, but with all parts clean and with anti-seize, it all slid in nicely.

After installation, this time the steering wheel was only off a slight bit.  I corrected this by shortening one tie-rod by a couple of threads and enlongating the other side by a couple of threads (~1/8 inch on each side).  

Of course, I will get a professional alignment in the near future.

But for now, all is well and the car drives nicely.

Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[Abbas]

Hello Joe,
  I have been trying on the MB catalog to find the MB part number for the Steering Fluid filter but could not get it. Does any one have a reference number. I found part num for the cap gasket 000 236 00 80 but does not know if this is also correct.

 Is there a website other than the Russian one where I can check for
this part - because I cannot seem to find the page for the s/f reservoir parts.

Abbas

280SL W113 1969 Ivory
E280 W124 1995 Silver

[bpossel]

Abbas,

Try Arizona Autohaus
http://autohausaz.com

Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[Naj ✝︎]

Abbas
 

quote:MB part number for the Steering Fluid filter

000 236 00 55

Download Attachment: PSF05.JPG
40.82 KB

naj

68 280SL

[tel76]

Jeff,
With reference to your post #15 how do you get to the O rings in green (after the bottom cover has been removed)?

[wwheeler]

I am replying to this old thread because there was a question raised by Bob on his first post about the alignment bolt that was never answered.

I just removed my gear box and took pictures of the original plug bolt and the bolt I fabricated to center the gear in the neutral position (#227). I was lucky in that the gear was centered (neutral position) along with the steering wheel when it came out. I could see the dimple in the shaft through the threaded hole. To lock it in place was just a matter of screwing the altered bolt in lightly into the dimple. That dimple moves quickly so it is easy to miss! Now alignment should be right on during the reinstall. By the way, the bolt is a uncommon one. An 8mm fine thread or 1.0 pitch. Normal pitch is 1.25mm for a 8mm thread.

For the originality documenters, (#225) picture is the date in which the casting of the gear box was made. There is also a large white paint blob just out of the picture on the side of the casting next to the adjustment nut (#227).

Use penetrant on the coupling splines about a day before you remove the box!!!!!!!!!

[ctaylor738]

Since this thread has been resurrected, here is my $.02.

I just finished replacing the steering coupler bushings in a 230SL.  I removed the tie rod and drag link and dropped the box down.  I replaced the bushings and put the coupler back on the steering shaft.  I tried with no success to reconnect the box to the coupler.  It seemed to me to be a "can't get there from here."  There is a bulge in the steering box that fits into a groove in the frame.  But I couldn't get the box into the groove without connecting to the coupler, and I couldn't connect it to the coupler without the box being in the groove.  So after wrestling with the heavy box for an hour, I decided there must be a better way.

I removed the steering wheel, speedo, cluster and tach so I could access the nuts that hold the collar supporting the steering jacket.  I loosened the clamp on the steering lock and dropped the jacket/shaft down and pulled it back a couple of inches. Then I put the coupler on the box, and installed the box on the frame.  Then I lined up the shaft to the coupler and pushed the shaft into the coupler without difficulty.

I realize that the BBB says to do it by leaving the steering shaft in place, but this alternative worked for me.  The advantages to this approach are that you can ensure that the lower coupler bolt goes into the groove in the shaft on the box.  And with the mark at the top of the steering shft right in front of you, it's easy to be sure of the box/shaft alignment.

I'll take messing with the dash over dealing with the steering box any day.  If I ever do another coupling, I will leave the box in place.

[George Des]

This is an old post, but I'll second what Chuck said in his post above. I changed out the bushings on the coupling a few years back and re-installed the box as recommended in the workshop manual. It was a real challenge and in the end it went in uncentered and the directionals did not cancel properly. It was such an ordeal to wiggle this monster in at the time, I decided to live with it while I continued to sort out other issues arising out of my total rebuild of the car. I finally decided to go back in there to fix the problem while at the same time installing a freshly rebuilt power steering box. I took Chuck's advice this time. While it was somewhat of a chore to remove the tach, speedo and center instrument cluster, it was a breeze to put the box in place with the coupling already installed in the center position and then to insert the steering wheel shaft into the coupling while looking directly at the alignement mark on the steering wheel shaft.

George

[George Des]

I know this is a really old topic but did want to weigh in with some info. I replaced the power steering box on my 230 SL with a C&m rebuilt unit and now have everything lined up properly so the blinkers cancel correctly, steering wheel centered, bushings on coupling tight, etc. While in there, I also replaced all three ties rods and the dampner. Short test drives showed I needed to do some slight tweaking of the toe-in but otherwise, the steering is a world of difference from what it was. Very tight and responsive like it should be. Will now get a good, professional front end alignment to ensure toe, camber and caster are set according to specs. Very happy with the C&M unit so far. Now on to have that T51-200 brake booster worked on--idle speed increases noticeably when foot held on pedal--no leaks apparent anywhere else in the lines, so i suspect a leaky diapragm

[ptooner]

Update...

I pulled out the new gearbox this past weekend to correct alignment.  When I installed it the first time, the coupling must have moved a few splines... causing the steering wheel to be off center.

This time, with the new box on the bench, and the coupling removed from the steering shaft, I installed the coupling on the steering gear box, then slide the entire box w/coupling onto the steering shaft.

The new gear box came aligned in it's neutral, centered position.  It has a notch on the gearbox shaft and has a paint mark on the outer edge.  This saves having to remove the standard factory nut, using the MB tool (referenced in the BBB) to ensure alignment.

Whats required is to ensure that the coupling pinch slot on the side of the steering shaft aligns with full neutral position of the box, or rather the notch & paint mark on the new box.

See attached pic which shows the coupling on the new steering gear box.  The yellow paint mark came already on the box, showing the center position.  The red paint marks are the ones that I put on to ensure alignment.

Download Attachment: coupling.jpg
70.19 KB

With the steering wheel positioned to ensure the notch on the shaft was pointing up and the steering wheel was in it's true straight position, per original factory setting, the new gearbox was installed.
It was difficult to install the new gearbox with the coupling already on, but with all parts clean and with anti-seize, it all slid in nicely.

After installation, this time the steering wheel was only off a slight bit.  I corrected this by shortening one tie-rod by a couple of threads and enlongating the other side by a couple of threads (~1/8 inch on each side).  

Of course, I will get a professional alignment in the near future.

But for now, all is well and the car drives nicely.

Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

I did this job several years ago on my 230SL.  It actually went pretty smoothly considering but the mark for the pittman arm was a little bit ambiguous.  I took a guess and wound up one spline off.  That allowed the car to turn sharper one way than the other (I forget which) so I wound up having to take it off and move it one spline.  A major PITA.  I didn't have to do any alignment afterwards.  I removed the steering wheel while I was working on the problem and I simply lined up the front wheels straight ahead and centered the wheel when I put it back on.  Interestingly, I pulled mine because of play in the steering and when I got it off I found most of the play was in the coupling and not the box.  Since I already had it off and the new one in hand, I went ahead and replaced it anyway.  I was hoping it would solve my chronic leak too but no such luck.  I now have a set of seals for the pump and I'm working up the energy to pull it off. 

Gerry

[George Des]

I had the same problem with the pitman arm until I cleaned it up really good and saw that there is an alignment mark scribed on the bottom surface right on the  shaft bore. There is also what looks like a weld deposit on the side surface that I first mistook for the alignment mark--while it does provide a good "lead' to finding the alignment mark, if you do use it it will be about one spline off.